Arduino Week 3

Hi guys!

Below are the videos for my Arduino Week 3 work. This week’s stuff was tricky for me… not gonna lie. I feel that I am on the verge of a mental breakthrough with understanding how writing code works… but still trudging through the mental muck.

Digital Input

I got a little turned around with Becky’s mind games but both Digital inputs are here:

The Serial Monitor/Analog Input

Two Buttons Control one LED (on and off)

This was so tricky for me! But Tinker sphere was a great place to work it all through and I had some light adjustments when I built it out IRL, and the code isn’t too pretty but it’s working and that’s magic.

Screen Shot 2018-09-25 at 5.57.47 PM

/*
  Button

 Turns on and off a light emitting diode(LED) connected to digital
 pin 13, when pressing a pushbutton attached to pin 2.


 The circuit:
 * LED attached from pin 13 to ground
 * pushbutton attached to pin 2 from +5V
 * 10K resistor attached to pin 2 from ground

 * Note: on most Arduinos there is already an LED on the board
 attached to pin 13.


 created 2005
 by DojoDave <http://www.0j0.org>
 modified 30 Aug 2011
 by Tom Igoe

 This example code is in the public domain.

 http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Button
 */

// constants won't change. They're used here to
// set pin numbers:
const int buttonPin = 2;     // the number of the pushbutton pin
const int ledPin =  13;      // the number of the LED pin
const int buttonPinoff = 7;  //the number of pushbutton2 pin

// variables will change:
int buttonState = 0;         // variable for reading the pushbutton status
int buttonState2 =0;    // variable for reading the pushbutton status

void setup() {
  // initialize the LED pin as an output:
  pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);
  // initialize the pushbutton pin as an input:
  pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(buttonPinoff, INPUT_PULLUP);
}

void loop() {
  // read the state of the pushbutton value:
  buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin);
  buttonState2 = digitalRead(buttonPinoff);

  // check if the pushbutton is pressed.
  // if it is, the buttonState is HIGH:
  if (buttonState == LOW) {
    // turn LED on:
    digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);
  }
  // check if the pushbutton2 is pressed.
  // if it is, the buttonState is HIGH:
  if (buttonState2 == LOW) {
    // turn LED on:
    digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);}
}

 

Week 2 – Arduino

Hi Guys!

Below are the links to my Vimeo with the videos of my completed Arduino exercises. I found it all a little challenging as my board doesn’t directly imitate the Tinkercad examples (and also I don’t have enough long cords in my kit to properly color coordinate) but I managed in the end!

First one is the Blinking Circuit:

Second is “Adding More LEDs”:

Third is the… FAAADDDEEE…;)

And last but not least is the RGB LEDs:

 

Thanks!

Stephanie

iHome Teardown

For this tear down project I found an old iHome iPL8 Charging Stereo FM Clock Radio with Lightning Dock.

 

Features include:

  • USB Port
  • AUX line
  • Alarm “Wake/Sleep” function with iPhone/iPod music or FM radio
  • iPhone charging doc
  • Digital time display
  • Speakers (Reason8 Speaker Chambers)
  • Materials
    • Plastic Injection mold
    • Matte Metallic Mesh
    • Foot pads
    • Screws

Part 1

I approached the iHome from the underside, removing the Lithium Watch battery first and proceeding with the 4 visible and accessible screws. After those were removed I discovered there where two more screws hidden beneath the foot pads. Removing those allowed me to open the case.

 

Part 2

From there I encountered a layering of circuit boards and electronic components; separated by injection mold casings or foam padding.  All of these were well-organized and neatly packed into the case. Each part was easily broken down with a tiny Phillips head screw driver.

 

 

IMG_9920
All interior components

Part 3

At this phase you can clearly begin to see the different parts of the iHome (i.e. Digital clock, speakers, iPhone port) and how they connect to the main circuit board so I started breaking them down one by one.

Speakers:

 

  • Materials:
    • Speakers – SRS TrueBass expanded bass circuitry. sealed speaker, magnetic and glued shut. ( YDF4304-A122M1-131)
    • Rubber
    • Injection mold plastic
    • Wiring
    • Foam
    • Screws

iPhone Port:

IMG_9933

  • Materials
    • Injection Mold Plastic
    • Circuit board
    • Screws
    • Springs
    • iPod jack

Digital Clock Display Components:

IMG_9939
Clock/Music control Board
IMG_9940
Digital Clock Display components
IMG_9941
Digital Clock Screen Display components
  • Materials:
    • Printed circuit board RoHS, including solder-stop and marking print.

    • Flexible Flat Cable Tape

    • Clear Plastic Screen
    • Textured Plastic plate with silver foil taping, sandwiched in paper.
    • Tinted Glass plate with injection mold plastic casing and framing
    • Circuit Display board.

The main circuit board with microchips:

img_9942.jpg

IMG_9946
All Parts

Materials in total:

  • Injection Mold Plastic
  • Electric wiring/cables
  • Lithium Battery
  • Circuit Boards (with soldering)
  • Flexible Flat Cable tape
  • Speakers – YDF4304-A122M1-131 (magnets?)
  • Foam
  • Glue
  • Screws

Tools Used to Teardown:

  • Tiny Phillips Screw
  • Pliers
  • Wire cutters

Parts/Chip info:

  • STA369BWS – From STMicroelectronics – Audio Amplifiers /Audio Subsystems.

  • AP918 – Flash Micro controller with LCD drive for USD audio application.

  • SS32 – S310 Schottky Rectifier – electrical resistance

One Design element I think it interesting is the speaker design. As a consumer who doesn’t understand really much about how speakers or electronics are made, the exterior design of the speaker mesh gives me the feeling that there is this giant, “surround sound” speaker affect inside my iHome. In reality there is just a L and a R speaker. It’s a bit of smoke and mirrors but I think it’s a good visual trick.

A second design element I think works really well is that the iPhone jack is set into “pins” so that the device can rock front and back when it’s connected to its port. I think this is a fairly simple thing to add into a design but it smart because probably means the components aren’t snapping or breaking when the device is put on or taken of.

Thanks I hope you enjoyed my teardown!

Stephanie