Vtech Phone Teardown


1 Front cover  – Injection molded plastic 

2. Back over – Injection molded plastic 

3. Back battery cover – Injection molded plastic 

4. inner keypad – Silicon 

5. outer dial keypad – Injection molded plastic 

6. Volume control button – Injection molded plastic

7. Selection keys – Injection molded plastic

8. Talk / Off keys – Injection molded plastic

9. Battery pack – Voltage: 2.4V – Capacity: 600mAh

10. Main circuit board

11. 1.25″x 1.5  monochrome LCD panel – Glass

12. LCD mounting tape – Magnetic tape

13. Screen backing square – Plastic

14. Screen backing – Injection molded plastic 

15 Screen back holder – Injection molded plastic 

16. Front screen covering – Injection molded plastic

17. Front screen protectant – Foam

18. Receiver – magnetic, metal

19. Speaker – magnetic, metal 

20. Speaker clip – metal

21. Screws – metal

Circuit board parts:

Dsp det9rf19zcnc

J13.824d 1607-20

Sc1602- battery

 Bl24c1 53713p

Tools used:

Small Philips screwdriver

Small flathead screwdriver


One design element that interested me were the layers of plastics and protectants on the screen.  I assumed that a phone without a touch screen would just have fewer things on it.  

I was also very interested in the dial buttons both in plastic and in silicon.  I have never thought about what the keys looked like in a phone and how they interacted with the circuit board.  And I was surprised to see how the keys are thinly laid out in injection molding plastic.

I would say overall that I was surprised at how few parts were in the inner portion of the phone, and how the majority of its volume is plastic.  I often think these phones are too light and I assume that the designer made so much out of a light plastic for cost reasons.

Facial Cleaner Teardown

Components and how it made

  1. Rubber shell: Injection molding
  2. Botton tape: Sticker print
  3. Charger area: (Plastic + metal)Injection molding
  4. Charger light cover: Injection molding
  5. Plastic shell: Injection molding
  6. Plastic shell: Injection molding
  7. Screw and nail: Metal cutting
  8. Screw and nail: Metal cutting
  9. Fasten tape
  10. Plastic piece: Injection molding
  11. Circuit: Welding
  12. Circuit: Welding
  13. Charger
  14. Pump


  1. Screwdriver
  2. Cutting knife

Circuit functions:

  1. 11:MR-1595N –Main Switch
  2. 12:MR-1595_LED –Lights control

Interesting Design Element

Firstly I really like the rubber shell outside, the rubber has different texture in different area for different function. I knew this product is waterproofed but I didn’t understand how it works. I thought my first step would be cut the rubber and then I noticed there are nails hide between the charger area and the body part. When I trying to pear it off I noticed how it covers the plastic and how it proofs water– it sticks and holds the plastic tightly and then has been fastened by nails on the bottom.

What come next is when I trying to go further to see what’s inside, it was hard to open the plastic shell. I used cutting knife to test if there is anyplace could open but apparently they have been glued tight. So I decide to destroy the corner of the switch cuz it’s the only place that is flexible. I didn’t expect this vibrate machine is that small though, also the power supply is slightly bigger than I thought too!

Old Samsung Phone Teardown


  1. Screen Shell- Plastic
  2. Screen
  3. Motherboard – Metal, Copper, Plastic
  4. Screws – Metal
  5. Back cover – Metal
  6. Circuit Board – Metal, Copper, Plastic
  7. Bottom part of the motherboard – Plastic, Copper
  8. Motherboard chip – Metal, Copper
  9. Home buttons – Plastic
  10. Part of the motherboard – Plastic, Copper
  11. Side volume buttons – Plastic
  12. Part of the circuit board – copper, metal
  13. Insulating tape – copper, metal

Tools Used:

  1. Screwdriver
  2. Pliers

Chip Information:

SPH-W7700LCDR1.0 DR9E22SE -No information found, 095N -Quad Programmable Bipolar JFET Operational Amplifiers , A961 – Separate semiconductor transistor

Interesting Parts:

I was intrigued by two parts in this teardown. First was the screen of the phone. When I imagine the screen of the phone even with my existing phone today, I imagine a glass screen but tearing it down the actual screen was matte. This was very interesting to me to see. The materials in the inside of the phone are fitted for the internal aspects of the phone. It makes me realize that when creating the outer aesthetic parts of the product must be different materials than the inner parts of the product which are mainly focused on the functionality.

The second thing that was intriguing was all the copper insulating stickers to keep the parts down. These stickers are used to stick down the important parts of the board without coming off. As someone who has never seen the inside of an electronic, I thought this tape was fascinating.

Overall, I think this experience made me realize that in order for a product to come together, there are many different factors that goes into it. First, understanding different materials the parts are made up and how the materials can go together are important. Lastly, a product is made up is way more complicated than I thought but also in the same way simpler than I thought. If I explain myself, it is complicated because of all the different things you need to consider when making a product. But, when I was taking apart the phone it was the outer shells, screen, circuitboard, motherboard, and tape that brought it together. It was way less material than I thought.

Portable Fan Teardown

American Camper Portable Fan/Light


Back and side view

Disassembly Process

I used all strength and force to break down certain plastic parts. Where applicable I used the Phillips head screwdriver. For most of the process I liked using my hands or the flathead screwdriver. The pliers came in handy for removing wires. The knife was necessary when separating the washers and plastic enough to shimmy the flathead screwdriver.

Materials used for disassembly:

  1. Flathead screwdriver
  2. Phillips head screwdriver
  3. Pliers
  4. Knife

There is always one…

I was not able to take this last screw out. I tried to use a small screwdriver, and then the tip of a knife, then the screwdriver again. I ended up stripping the top, at which point I couldn’t remove it without completely breaking that part of the frame.

Itemized Overview


  1. Back cover (front and back sides)
  2. Light Cover
  3. Fan Top Cover
  4. Front cover (back side)
  5. Cables
  6. Fan Blade
  7. Light Bulb
  8. Switches
  9. Plastic covers/bits
  10. Flat screws
  11. Sharp screws
  12. Springs
  13. Screw
  14. Front cover
  15. Washers
  16. Motor Assembly
Motor Assembly

Motor details: plastic cover, metal pin, coil, metal casing. Model number: RF-500TB-12560, Mabuchi, made in Japan.

Design Opinion

I appreciate the light fixture being above the fan. It is practical, and I appreciate how easy it was to disassemble. The dropping on the sides is a nice small design touch that flows with the curvilinear form altogether. Complimentary to the light form are the edges of the fan. The smooth lines run around the whole product almost like a synecdoche of the core function of the product, which is meant to run in smooth infinite loops.

Bluetooth Mouse Teardown

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3


1- bottom shell-ABS plastic-injection moulding

2- button-ABS plastic-injection moulding

3- top shell-ABS plastic-injection moulding

4- light guide plate-PMMA-injection moulding

5- wheel-PMMA-injection moulding

6- wheel cover-rubber-injection moulding

7- battery cover-ABS plastic-injection moulding

8- switch-ABS plastic-injection moulding

9- main screw-steel-thread rolling method

10- screw-steel-thread rolling method

11- PCB-glass fibre composite material

12- sensor cover-PMMA-injection moulding

13- decorative button-ABS plastic-injection moulding

14- light guide plate&bluetooth switch-PMMA-injection moulding

15- coil-steel-stretching, lightening and winding

Circuit Board Information

BCM20730-single-chip Bluetooth transceiver

456RD K348-power supplies and adapters

T240 Pa68-processor?



A screwdriver was used to disassemble the shell and the circuit board. A pair of needle-nose pliers is used to disassemble the light guide plate. Other parts are fixed by snap-fit and were removed by hand.

Design Elements

Light guide plate: Before teardown, I thought there might be a line of LED directly under that plate. But it turns out to be only one LED on one side of that plate. I think it is very clever to use such elements to create ambient light. You can light up a large area using only one LED. The side in contact with the LED has a glossy finish to better convey the light and the side that shows the light has a matte finish to display the light. I am very curious about why one side of that plate is jagged. Maybe to create some variation of light?

Decorative button: I think this is a bad design example. The decorative button turns out to control something after I tear it down. I remember pushed it before, it is very hard to push and I have to use my nail. And pushing that switch did not change anything. Also, there is another silver element on the shell purely for decoration. So I just assumed it is for decoration too.

Gameboy Advance Teardown

Tools I used:

  1. Triwing Screwdriver
  2. Phillips Screwdriver


  1. Screen – Thin Film Transister (TFT LCD Display)
  2. Front Cover – Plastic 
  3. Screws – Metal
  4. Buttons – Plastic
  5. Various Controls – Plastic
  6. Motherboard – Metal Components
  7. Game Slot – Metal Clip
  8. Back cover – Plastic 

Motherboard Components: 

  1. CPU – 32-bit Processer
  2. Cable Jack
  3. Speaker
  4. AMP AGB – Audio chip
  5. Volume Control
  6. Audio Jack 
  7. Cartridge Slot
  8. Power Switch

Interesting Design Elements: 

I had some difficulties at the beginning of this takedown because Nintendo uses specific screws on the exterior shell that require a triwing screwdriver to unscrew. After a couple of methods that didn’t work, I caved and got one and the magnetic tip proved very useful. I believe the reason they would use different screws would be to differentiate the interior screws from the exterior screws. After that, the takedown process was fairly easy. At the end of it I was surprised to find that there are a minimal amount of screws used and most of the parts were friction fit. Both design elements are interesting in that they help with efficiency and lessening any mistakes that could be made in assembly.

Phone Handset Teardown

The part that interested me the most was the crystal oscillator (22). It is more accurately referred to as a piezoelectric resonator. It is marked ECEC for the manufacturer: the East Crystal Electronic Company and also marked 13.824H1. The 13.824H1 indicates the frequency. A crystal oscillator uses the mechanical resonance of a vibrating crystal of piezoelectric material to create an electrical signal with a very precise frequency. Crystal oscillators contain a wafer of synthetic quartz crystal and trace amounts of silver and gold.

Samsung Galaxy S4 Teardown

Disassembly Process

Below is a photography of all the parts spread out under the order of assembly:

List of materials and techniques used for each component:

  1. Back panel (plastic) – injection molding
  2. Mid-frame (plastic) – injection molding
  3. Lithium battery (lithium)
  4. Screws (metal)
  5. Mid-frame connector panel (plastic) – injection molding
  6. Rear facing camera (metal&glass&copper)
  7. SIM micro-sd board (metal&copper)
  8. Volume button (plastic)
  9. Earpiece Speaker (metal&glass&copper)
  10. Motherboard (metal&copper)
  11. Vibrator (metal&copper)
  12. Front facing camera (metal&glass&copper)
  13. Top front shell (plastic)
  14. Back front shell (plastic)
  15. Insulating tape (resin&plastic&fiber)
  16. Home-key press (plastic)
  17. Home button (metal&copper)
  18. Circuitboard (metal) – necessary software/operating system
  19. Screen monitor (glass)
  20. Screen monitor protector (metal)
  21. Front screen frame (plastic)

Information of Chips:

  1. K4P2E304EQ-AGC2: Microprocessor
  2. KLM8G1WEMB-B031: Memory card
  3. 20794MA: Gravity Sensing
  4. WCD9306: Audio IC
  5. PM8226: Power IC
  6. WCN3660a: Wifi IC
  7. Q16DWUUIG: Flash Memory

Tools Used:

  1. Cross-screwdriver
  2. Tweezers

It’s not hard for me to unscrew using a proper screwdriver, however, getting rid of the mid-frame is quite difficult for me without destroying the structure underneath. I had to slip my tweezer under the mid-frame and carefully separate it from the adhesives, and repeat the process all around under I could easily remove the frame.

Design Elements:

There are two components that I’m interested in, one is the back panel of this phone. Unlike other designs from that period where battery is generally not accessible, this panel makes the battery accessible with no tools required. Another fact that attracts my attention, is the leather covered design of this panel, which provides an unique pleasing to the eye while distinguishing it with other cellphones on the market.

Besides the back panel, I was also fascinated by the meticulous motherboard with several tiny little chips connected. The chips are way smaller than my imagination, some of them are even too small for me to recognize as a chip. I struggled for a while to identify the correct numbers/letters printed on the chip. However, it is exactly those tiny chips that enables the design of a thinner and lighter cellphone today.

Old DVD player teardown

Teardown process video

A funny story, my parent told me this is a desktop HDD from the 90s. They removed it before replacing the old-fashion desktop and kept it for almost 20 years, because they were afraid of personal information leakage. I thought it would be a lots complicated electronic components inside, but after disassembly, I found out that it is just a DVD player. 

Parts with materials & technology


1&2, full metal shell pressure casting
3&6, plastic frameinjection molding
4, CD holder – plastic – injection molding
5, plastic lipinjection molding
7&18, gear system – plastic – injection molding
8&9, metal framepressure casting
10, metal stickroll
11, PNB1-T278-BC axis of rotation – metal&plastic
12, laser head – metal&plastic
13, control panel (view more below)
14, clip (view more below)
15, data tapemetal&plastic
16, TB2520 linear motormetal
17, springs metal – chill block melt-spinning
18, screws –  metal – chill block melt-spinning

Clip & Control panel

1, MT1329E DVD server & decoding chip
2, MT1326Fradio-frequency power amplifier
3, DM168Dcache drive
4, switch
5, resistance
6, shift
7, capacitance
8, M.T.C ccm03-020r1-4spindle motor
9, volume control valve
10, headset jack
11, resistance


cross screwdriver & slotted point screwdriver & hexagonal screwdriver

Design elements


I got a big trouble at the every beginning. Even if I removed all the screws, I still couldn’t tear the metal shell down. You can see in my video that I took it apart with brute force ultimately. Later, I noticed there are many small tendons on the side that prevent people from moving it. Screws are not just for fixing, but a double insurance. This design element interest me that the design of the object itself is more important, and it can be stronger without adding extra content.

Texture detail

Another thing I found was that the surface friction of the rotation axis drive the DVD to rotate at a high speed. I thought there would be something inside for fixing, did not expect for a solution of the object’s CMF. The designer may easily fix the DVD through the texture without adding additional parts to achieve the goal. As the same I discovered at the first design elements.

Thanks for watching ❤️

LG Revere 3 VN170 Teardown

LG Revere 3 NV170 Teardown Timelapse

I did a teardown of an old flip phone that was no longer being used and laid out all of the component parts as follows:

Chip Information:

QUALCOMM QSC6055 ENPC65B V453008: Memory Storage, Micron Technology 50A98 JW582 Semiconductor, A7354: Power Amplifier Module, DD6 94V0: said Data not Found, EMY57LLW19: information not found, LM220CMIAY04: information not found, tsd2g03884fpc-a1-e: information not found

Here is the full process divided up into 16 images.

The manufacturing techniques I found that were used to make the phone were soldering, plastic molding, cutting strips of plastic sheets, and metal cutting. A lot of tape was used to keep the pieces together, particularly the wiring. A fair amount of the pieces were kept together using metal screws.

I used three screwdrivers with different screw sizes as well as an unneeded attempt with a wrench to take apart the phone. In addition to the tools, I used my hands to pry apart the pieces and remove the adhesives.

Design Elements of Interest:

Keypad components

The keypad components of the phone were interesting to me because they were not what I expected. I thought it was interesting that the flip phone keypad, unlike a computer keyboard, did not have an individual component for each key. Instead all of the keys were connected in layers on top of the circuit board. The small metal pieces fit into the white plastic pattern, which was held together by a plastic adhesive and placed on top of the circuit board and covered by the painted rubber display that the user sees. The designers may have made it with this method to prevent individual keys from becoming loose and potentially lost / not in contact with the board and rendering typing difficult.

Phone Camera

Another interesting design element was the phone’s camera. I expected the camera to be bigger, more rounded in shape, and to be found solely in the top section of the flip phone. I did not expect for the camera to span across the phone’s hinge, have multiple connecting sections, and be so much smaller than I imagined. The designers may have made it this way to easily connect the phone’s display with the keypad. The shape may have been used to make sure pressing other buttons did not damage the connection between the camera and the camera taking button.