Samsung Intensity II Teardown

Project 1 Knolling_back_labelled

Project 1 Knolling_front labelled.jpg


  • A. Back casing with camera cover – injection mold plastic
  • B. Slider mechanism plate – metal and plastic
  • C. Back casing/battery cover – injection molded plastic
  • D. Screws – metal
  • E. 3.7 volt Lithium ion battery
  • F. Front Speaker and flex cable
  • G. Front side buttons – injection molded plastic
  • H. Front cover and LCD protector
  • I. LCD connector and flex cable
  • J. Front number keyboard circuit board
  • K. Front number keyboard buttons – plastic
  • L. Back speaker and camera module, also housing audio jack – IMP for module case
  • M. Slider mechanism base plate – metal
  • N. Screws – metal
  • O. Screws – metal
  • P. Screws – metal
  • Q. EMI Shield – metal
  • R. Screws – metal
  • S. Back Plate of front half – IMP
  • T. QWERTY keyboard circuit
  • U. QWERTY keyboard buttons – plastic
  • V. “Front” casing for back half housing QWERTY keyboard
  • W. LCD display
  • X. Rear camera
  • Y. Sim card space?

How to breakdown:

Tools Used: screw driver, tweezers, x-acto knife, hair dryer, phillips head, my nails 😛

Techniques: unscrewing, heating up, and prying, lots of prying

Step 1:Remove back casing and detach logic board


IMG_5840.jpgIMG_5843 IMG_5844

Step 2: Open up the front half of the phone, starting with the sliding mechanism side, and remove LCD panel and front keyboard circuit from front casing.

IMG_5847  IMG_5849 IMG_5849 3

Step 3: Detach LCD connector and remove EMI shield and speaker module with camera/audio jack from logic board.


Two design elements I found interesting:

  1. The slider, the sliding mechanism, and the holes in parts of the casing are positioned in such a way to accommodate the LCD connection. Prior to taking it apart, I had no idea how that worked, so it was exciting to discover during the teardown!
  2. I like the difference in texture between the back plate covering the battery and the rest of the phone. While the rest of the purple plastic in the case is smooth, the back has a more raised texture. I think this was done for better grip when the user is holding the phone and to distinguish the part that can be removed to access the battery.

Mattel Gas Out Teardown


I deconstructed Mattel’s Gas Out, which is a toy that makes farting sound when pressed(It even has two different kinds of farting sound). This toy was designed for a card game, which was also designed by Mattel. I chose to deconstruct this product because of its small size( I was curious how all the features were included in this small product) and the sound making feature. For clarification, I will call the whole product as ‘body part’ and the top part of the product as ‘head part’.

Tool I used to tear it down: Screw driver

Step 1. Unscrew the screws

-Take the batteries out (Batteries were not able to be removed by hands)

-Open the body


Step 2. Pull the back of the head out and open it

Step 3. Pull the buttons out

Dismantled parts

-sound buttons, speaker, speaker wire(blue), DHW 40 chipboard, 2 AA batteries, springs, screws, on/off buttons

Interesting Findings

  1. It was interesting to see all the features(on/off button, speaker, sound buttons) are all connected to one small chipboard.
  2. The space of the product was very efficiently used. The product had its speaker inside the head part since the head was narrow and had its chipboard inside the body part since the body had wider space.
  3. By analyzing the inner part of the product, I learned how button is made and how to make a product bounce.
  4. VCC and GND were glued to the chipboard and was connected to the battery compartment. Except for that, other parts were jointed by screws.

Rice Cooker Teardown


I bought a rice cooker from the thrift store. And this is a brief introduction:


A Glass Lid (Lost)
B Inner Pot
C Heating Body
D Panel
E Cook Switch

This rice cooker is very easy to use. Just connect the plug into a outlet and switch the rice cooker ON. It will start cooking and the cook light will illuminate. After cooking, the rice cooker will keep warm automatically and the keep warm light will illuminate.

Teardown steps


Step 1 Remove the Bottom Plate
1.1 Remove the spanning screw
1.2 Remove the rubber cushions
1.3 Unscrew the legs
1.4 Remove the bottom plate


Step 2 Remove the Hotplate
2.1 Unscrew the screw of wire groups
2.2 Bend & unlock the spring latch
2.3 Unscrew the surrounding screws
2.4 Remove the hotplate


Step 3 Tear down the inner parts
2.1 Push the plates together to unlock the hotplate.
2.2 Find the spring inside the hotplate
2.3 Find & unlock the heating piece
2.4 Cut the wire groups
2.5 Drag out the panel
2.6 Unscrew the panel


Reassembly & Conclusion
What makes me really surprised is its working style. The rice cooker uses its wonderful structure to achieve the cooking and keeping warm function. The most interesting thing is the spring inside the hotplate. I reassemble some parts of the rice cooker and realize the fact that, the spring is compressed in the cooking mode to let the inner pot keep close to the heating body, while it extends in the keep warm so that the inner pot can keep away from the heating body. And it is really excited to find out how it works with the cook switch on the panel. I realize that some ingenious designs are very simple but really useful!

D-Link Router Teardown

I teared down a D-Link Router, and here is what I found:

Frame was attached together with two screws that were hidden in the bottom and behind two plastic covers. I broke the antenna and there was a wire inside it. There was a boardband inside the case which has these components:

  • LAN and WAN ports which we can see from the outside and that’s where we plug it in. There was also a tiny switch that was the reset button. They were attached to the board and I couldn’t separate them.
  • Three Isolation transformers. I found out that they are used to transfer the electrical power from the source to the device in a way that protect us from electrical shock.
  • There are multiple elements that are responsible for power supply.
  • Chip AR7240 which is a Network Processor
  • Chip A3560ETP Which is a SDRAM

*Figure 4 and 5 were under a metal cover.

IMG_4472 copy


  • Chip AR9285 which is a wireless adapter and it’s under a metal cover
  • ON/OFF switch which is next to a LED
  • 7 activity LEDs

IMG_4491 copy

What I found Interesting:

LAN and WAN ports were attached to the board by two plastic parts that were very small but the way they were designed made the ports very secure on the board.

Also, it was interesting how the actual switch was very small and simple but had a more complicated or more aesthetic figure on the exterior.

The whole exterior looked like it was made from three parts, I think they designed it like this to make it look less boxy, but it was actually only two piece that were attached together by screws and ridges that went together like a puzzle.

iPhone 6 Tear down

I began with a whole but broken iPhone 6. I used a suction cup to pull of the screen, a plastic prying lever, and several small screw drivers: a flat head, a Phillips head and a small torx head for the first two bolts on next to the lightening port. IMG_5385.jpg


I proceeded to slowing peal away the layers.









There are so many parts in the iPhone it is hard to say it is made from one primary material. Clearly, when holding on I phone we can readily identify the CNC’ed aluminum receiver and the LCD touch screen. Once inside there is the battery which takes up a 50% of the real estate inside the receiver. Surrounding it is a complicated network of connections between chips, plugs and buttons.

There were several chips with numbers on them:

  • dtv44434 j5jfyphay
  • 1AA1C7H44872 02AG16QAY
  • QUALCOMM MDM9625M OBA B4Y882.0 H244403: this is a mobile data modem
  • AVAGO A8020 KA1444 JR172 OB00M: power amplifier
  • AVAGO A8010 KA1444 JP157 OT00M: power amplifier
  • 77356-8 08161.1 1446MX:power amplifier
  • 77802-23 6411573.1 1446 MX: power amplifier
  • 77803-20 6415705P 1447 MX: power amplifier
  • APPLE A8: processor

Two design design elements I found interesting were the polished logo on the back of the receiver and the shock absorbing corners. The log was interesting because it was a separate piece from the receiver that fit into holes cut into it. I tried to pry it out but I was unable to The corners showed how the receiver cleverly hid shock absorption into the phone.

IMG_5392.jpg IMG_5393.jpg

Toy Sound Pad Tear Down

Original Pad

This is the toy sounds pad, push the button and the surface will brighten and play the music.

Tear Down With Number-01


Back Mask

Element 1: The back mask of the toy sounds pad, and there is the battery slot on it, and it could put the batteries inside it.

Element 2: Four separate front masks, and there is the aluminum sheet on it to attach the frame and make it conduct electricity.


Element 3:  The whole body of the front mask, and in the middle there is the space to put the logic board and the speaker module in it. Besides the shape is suitable for all of the elements to put inside, there is some adhesive on it to attach it nicely.


Element 4:  This is the only one element attach on the back mask, I think it is the small logical board for the monitor, and this is the 3001-06-7501897 model.Speaker

Element 5: The speaker module makes the toy sounds pad play the music.


Element 6: It is the small monitor it attaches on the surface and shows some information.


Element 7: This is the 3001-06-1501894 logical board, and there are lots of frames attached by adhesive on it.


Element 8: Lots of optical frame in order let the four separate front masks brighten

Element 9:  The mask of the battery slot.


Interesting things

1 The first interesting element is the speaker module. After I open the case and did not tear down it yet, I still could feel the vibrate and sound when I push the button, it is weird but amazing feeling. This element is really small and not that big as I thought.

2 And the small monitor is really interesting, I never thought that there is the monitor small like this one. And how the mechanical work inside this small monitor is really interesting for me.



Megaphone Toy Teardown


(Overview map)


(Front view)


(Side view &  Vertical view)


(Back view)

What is it?

This is a megaphone toy. In the back of toy, there is a toggle switch. It can be played a sound that seem like the sound of fire engines when you push the toggle up. If you turn the toggle down, this sound will be closed.

How I broke it apart:


(Open the battery cover)

Step 1:

I used the floral screwdriver to turn on the screw.

Then remove the battery cover.

Finally, I find two battery to power.


(Open the megaphone toy)

Step 2:

I used the floral screwdriver to turn on the six screws. This six screws is distributed in the front, middle, back, down in order to fasten down shall of model.

When I turn on the middle of screw, there is a gasket to reduce worn and torn.







Step 5:

A buzzer or beeper is an audio signaling device, which may be mechanical, electromechanically, or piezoelectric (piezo for short). In this megaphone, the buzzer is embedded in the model and secured with a plastic strap.


(Toggle Switch)

Step 6:

This is a toggle switch. When you push the toggle up, the linear spring will touch the copper line to form a closed circuit.



(Voice Record)

Step 7:

The voice module is the central processor for the entire toy.It is used to store audio and drive sound.There are two resistors on the back of the board. Resistance is the purpose of the protection circuit will not be an excessive current in the power circuit board burned moment.


(Copper Sheet)

Step 8:

The current inside the battery is led out through the copper sheet.



Tools Used: Screw drivers

Select two design elements that interest you and describe why you think the designer(s) made it that way.

  • The position of the handle is mounted on the battery because the battery is heavy. The position of the battery in the handle allows the weight of the megaphone to go down.This is convenient for the user to put in his hand.
  • The switch is fixed at the position on both sides of the middle because the user will not accidentally touch the switch when using it.