Sarah’s Final Project: Slither

Slither is a desk pedometer, it tracks your steps and displays them visually. It is the perfect product for people who spend too much time at their desk. Instead of relying on your iPhone or Apple watch to remind you to get up from your desk and start walking Slither takes care of those reminders in sleek way. This decorative desk piece lights up to show you your progress towards walking your 50,000 step/week goal.

Slither’s form came from…a snake. Slither actually started as a painting I made for fun it evolved into a vector and now a pedometer. I definitely pushed my boundaries trying to create such a complex shape that contained several pieces.

The Materials

  1. Passion fruit Acrylic
  2. Hall effect sensor + Magnet 
  3. Adafruit HUZZAH ESP8266 wifi Breakout
  4. Wires
  5. Soldering Kit + solder
  6. 2 x Adafruit NeoPixel LED Side Light Strip – Black 90 LED 
  7. Hot Glue gun (with glue) + Gorilla glue
  8. IFTTT + Adafruit IO accounts
  9. Scrap wood
  10. 5V 2A switching power
  11. .75″ PVC pipe
  12. Edge tape
  • Machines
    1. CNC (wood)
    2. Laser Cutter (acrylic)
    3. Sander

The Build
Construction started with the CNC machine. We spent a lot of time together. Probably too much.

Once I calculated the dimensions I would need I CNC-ed my shapes out of plywood. I made sure to add dowel holes so the wooden frames would align properly.

I had to do some extra chiseling and sawing to get the shapes out. I also cut some PVC pipe that would be my on/off switch.

My wood frames needed lots of sanding. Next, I used the dowels to stack the frames on top of each other. Each frame had a layer of wood glue. I clamped that together for 30 mins.

Next I used the laser to cut the same shape out and also some circles for the PVC piece.


My feather huzzah board was connected to both a hall effect sensor and two strips of LED lights. The hall effect sensor is a sensor that turns on in the presence of a magnet.

Not pictured: lots of soldering…and resoldering…and oh no it broke soldering.

Next up, start trying to fit the huzzah board and LEDs.

I glued the acrylic piece to the top wood frame

Next, I glued an acrylic circle to cut PVC pipe. Wet wood strips and molded it to the cylinder volume before gluing.

The Code & Circuit
I used IFTTT to create a trigger for the Fitbit app. Every day the Fitbit app would fire a notification to my Adafruit IO feed with a step count. I set a goal for 50,000 steps. Slither would continue to light up until 50,000 steps was hit. When it hit the goal slither would go dark and reset.

Challenges

The CNC proved to me very time consuming. I think I will be more aware of the time it takes in the future and the problems that may arise with working with a machine like that. Lots of testing had to be done and many of the frames I wasn’t super happy with I ended up using for times sake. Sanding these frames was difficult because of the small spaces between.

If I were to do this again I would definitely probably try not to fit everything into the snake. Trying to fit it all inside caused lots of electrical issues and broke my circuit a few times. If I did try and fit it all inside again, I would make the head larger. I wasn’t able to finish the back pieces because the gap wasn’t large enough.

I wasn’t able to UV print on the acrylic because it was broken. Funnily, the placement for the dowels ended up looking like eyes anyway. If I could make this again I would add a layer of matte clear plastic so you didn’t see the gaps for the LED channel so much.

What I learned

  • 3D print probably would have been easier
  • Don’t get so complicated with shapes for the CNC machine
  • Compressed boards would probably have been better than plywood in terms of chipping
  • Mini LEDs are very difficult and time consuming to solder
  • Hall effect sensors aren’t as sensitive as you’d think
  • Laser cutting is pretty easy
  • You can do weird dancing when PoD is empty

Instructables:
https://www.instructables.com/Slither-a-Visual-Pedometer/

The Code

#define IO_USERNAME    "YOUR IO USERNAME"
#define IO_KEY         "YOUR IO KEY"

#define WIFI_SSID       "PUT WIFI NAME HERE"
#define WIFI_PASS       "PUT PASSWORD HERE"

#include "AdafruitIO_WiFi.h"
AdafruitIO_WiFi io(IO_USERNAME, IO_KEY, WIFI_SSID, WIFI_PASS);

/************************ Main Program Starts Here *******************************/
#include <ESP8266WiFi.h>
#include <AdafruitIO.h>
#include <Adafruit_MQTT.h>
#include <ArduinoHttpClient.h>

// #define BUTTON_PIN 4
//#define LED_PIN 13


#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>

#define PIXELS_PIN 15
#define NUM_LEDS 180
#define BRIGHTNESS 50
#define HALL_SENSOR 2

Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(NUM_LEDS, PIXELS_PIN, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);

int state = 0;
int TotalSteps = 0;
int ledlevel = 1;


// button state
//int current = 0;
//int last = 0;
//int sensorValue = 0;

// set up the 'command' feed
AdafruitIO_Feed *slither = io.feed("slither");



void setup() {

  // set button pin as an input
  // pinMode(BUTTON_PIN, INPUT_PULLUP);
 // pinMode(TotalSteps, INPUT);
  pinMode(HALL_SENSOR, INPUT);


  strip.setBrightness(BRIGHTNESS);
  strip.begin();
  strip.show(); // Initialize all pixels to 'off'


  // start the serial connection
  Serial.begin(115200);

  // connect to io.adafruit.com
  Serial.print("Connecting to Adafruit IO");
  io.connect();
  
  // set up a message handler for the 'command' feed.
  // the handleMessage function (defined below)
  // will be called whenever a message is
  // received from adafruit io.
 slither->onMessage(handleMessage);

  // wait for a connection
  while(io.status() < AIO_CONNECTED) {
    Serial.print(".");
    delay(500);
  }

  // we are connected
  Serial.println();
  Serial.println(io.statusText());

}

void loop() {

  // io.run(); is required for all sketches.
  // it should always be present at the top of your loop
  // function. it keeps the client connected to
  // io.adafruit.com, and processes any incoming data.
  io.run();
  ledlevel = map(TotalSteps,0,50000,0,strip.numPixels());


  state = digitalRead(HALL_SENSOR);
  if (state == LOW){
    Serial.println("Hall Effect Sensor Activated");
    Serial.print("LEDs to light up: ");
    Serial.println(ledlevel);
for(int i=0; i<ledlevel; i++) { 
   strip.setPixelColor(i, strip.Color(100,0,30)); //on
   strip.show();
}  
delay(10);

  }
  else {
    Serial.println("no magnet detected");
for(int i=0; i<strip.numPixels(); i++) { 
strip.setPixelColor(i, strip.Color(0,0,0,0)); //off
   strip.show(); 


    }
  }
}






// this function is called whenever a 'command' message
// is received from Adafruit IO. it was attached to
// the command feed in the setup() function above.
void handleMessage(AdafruitIO_Data *data) {

  //int command = data->toInt();
  TotalSteps = TotalSteps+ (data->toInt());


Serial.print("steps counted: ");
    Serial.println(data->value());
    

if (TotalSteps >= 50000){
  TotalSteps = 0; 

}

// else {

    //Serial.println("no steps");
    
  

//
//
//  //change NeoPixel color here using format strip.Color(R,G,B,W)
//     strip.setPixelColor(0, strip.Color(0,0,0,100)); //turn off NeoPixel
//     strip.setPixelColor(1, strip.Color(1,0,100,0)); //turn off NeoPixel
//     strip.setPixelColor(2, strip.Color(2,100,0,0)); //turn off NeoPixel
//     strip.setPixelColor(3, strip.Color(3,100,100,0)); //turn off NeoPixel
//     strip.setPixelColor(4, strip.Color(4,0,80,40)); //turn off NeoPixel
//     strip.setPixelColor(5, strip.Color(5,90,0,20)); //turn off NeoPixel
//     strip.show(); //always remember to call strip.show() to display changes
//
//     
//     delay(500);
//
//     strip.setPixelColor(0, strip.Color(0,0,0,0)); //turn off NeoPixel
//     strip.setPixelColor(1, strip.Color(0,0,0,0)); //turn off NeoPixel
//     strip.setPixelColor(2, strip.Color(0,0,0,0)); //turn off NeoPixel
//     strip.setPixelColor(3, strip.Color(0,0,0,0)); //turn off NeoPixel
//     strip.setPixelColor(4, strip.Color(0,0,0,0)); //turn off NeoPixel
//     strip.setPixelColor(5, strip.Color(0,0,0,0)); //turn off NeoPixel
//
//     strip.show(); //always remember to call strip.show() to display changes
//     
//  } 
}

Monica’s Mood Tracker Blog Submissions

Group project by: Nihaarika & Monica

Short project description

The IoT mood tracker is a device that provides feedback to student advisors on how a group of students is feeling. Graduate school can be extremely challenging. Sometimes it gets so bad that students get burned out. What if student advisors knew that students were not doing well before they reached the burnout stage?

The IoT Mood tracker uses a suite of Adafruit products, Adafruit IO and IFTTT to invite passersby to hit a physical thumbs up, thumbs down, or thumb level that represents the mood they are feeling. When any one thumb has been pressed a certain amount of times, the device sends an email to a student advisor.

Watch the IoT Mood Tracker in action here:

Link to Instructables:

https://www.instructables.com/PoD-Mood-Tracker/

A sample social media message:

Have you ever got burnt out with schoolwork? This IoT Mood Tracker helps student advisors know how a student cohort is doing through out the semester in order to keep burnout at bay. The device uses thumb-shaped buttons, electronics and the internet to record student moods and relay the information to school administrators.

Blogs we sent our Pitch to

Hackaday
Hackaday
Arduino Education
Arduino Education
Adafruit Blog
Adafruit

https://www.hackster.io/news/icon-based-student-mood-tracker-adecc1431de1

Nihaarika’s Mood Tracker Blog Enteries

Pitch Message

Introduction

The IoT mood tracker is a device that provides feedback to student advisors on how a group of students is feeling. Graduate school can be extremely challenging. Sometimes it gets so bad that students get burned out. What if student advisors knew that students were not doing well before they reached the burnout stage?

The IoT Mood tracker uses a suite of Adafruit products, Adafruit IO and IFTTT to invite passersby to hit a physical thumbs up, thumbs down, or thumb level that represents the mood they are feeling. When any one thumb has been pressed a certain amount of times, the device sends an email to a student advisor.

Watch the IoT Mood Tracker in action here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLDYVQEjzqU

Link to Instructables:

https://www.instructables.com/PoD-Mood-Tracker/

A sample social media message:

Ever got burnt our with schoolwork? This IoT Mood Tracker helps student advisors know how a students cohort is doing to keep burnout at bay. The device uses thumb-shaped buttons, electronics and the internet to record student moods and relays the info to school administrators

Blogs we sent our Pitch to

Hackaday
Arduino Education
Adafruit

https://www.hackster.io/news/icon-based-student-mood-tracker-adecc1431de1

Charvi’s You Better NOT Forget My Birthday CupCake

https://www.instructables.com/Different-Time-Zone-Birthday-Reminder/

Inspired by my friends’ tradition of calling each other at exactly 12 midnight on their birthdays, I developed this product out of guilt of missing out on this tiny but precious practice. To make it worse, due to the time difference, I have been calling my friends either too early or too late to wish Happy Birthday. This simple product is a gag gift to give your forgetful friend.

Jaemin’s Final Project

From smog hanging over cities to smoke from wildfire, air pollution poses a major threat to our health. Visibility is easily impacted by air pollution. As we have more and more bad air days, we get more of blurry, hazy vision.

Using Visibility as an Indicator for Air Quality

We always use colors to indicate the air quality. In this concept, I added one more visual element—the visibility.

It has 4 layers of mountains which are made of acrylic sheets and 5 row of LED strips which light up the mountains and the wall behind it.

Not just color of the LED but also the number of lit LED strips constantly change, depending on the air quality. For instance, when the air quality is terrible, only the first row of LED turns on in red and all you can see is the silhouette of the first mountain.

Youtube

Instructable

https://www.instructables.com/Mountains-Air-Quality-Visualizer/

Giancarlo’s Physical/Digital Spray can (Final Project)

i made, what i call, “street art magic” — a physical/digital spray can

essentially it’s a symbol for the use of spray cans and their connection to street art in the digital age. 

this one works as a can, or trigger, for the acrylic tag that i constructed to become a light. the use case would be someone who is a fan of graffiti and just wants a novel spray can that lights up a tag; however, it would be great for the setup to be used as a communication tool for young artists to non-verbally communicate when they arrive hone after a night on the streets. Being that Huzzahs are [going to be] used, the cans can trigger lights that are remote (another town, city, state) by using WiFi. 

overall the process was undulant but the challenges made it worthwhile in the end. currently the product and video, themselves, are only a work-in-progress, due to challenging software/hardware interface issues. the current production uses acrylic to display the tag and diffuse light, with a 3D printed casing to wall mount and house the neopixel strip. 

this seems like an appropriate time, so the materials are as follows: 

  1. 2 acrylic sheets (fill and outline)
  2. 3D printed case 
  3. 315/433mhz RF transmitter/receiver (if wanting to create a local remote to trigger) 
  4. Arduino Gemma (if wired version, current prototype) 
  5. Arduino Huzzah (if WiFi version, to interface with others) 
  6. Arduino Huzzah/Metro (if using RF transmitters, for a local remote trigger) 
  7. Dozen (approximately) pvc coated wires 
  8. Neopixel strip 
  9. External Battery 
  10. Button 

In using the materials, I tried to manage my time efficiently so I could work on the various pieces of the project concurrently. Almost all software and hardware resulted of new endeavors, but it wasn’t too overwhelming (other than the RF module being defective). 

Process photos and explanation: 

Wiring photo (RF attempts, Current modified button cycler, and Huzzah); Tag sketch (in notepad); Laser Cutter; 3D model for case 

Overall I’m satisfied with the current state of the project, but my next steps for the near-future iterations will use both the RF module and Arduino Huzzah (for the local, and/or remote LED triggering spray cans). 

Final video 

Various mini pieces within the video, it’s use case, and a snippet of the product in-use. 

Instructable: https://www.instructables.com/Digital-Spray-Can-Street-Art-Magic-Giancarlo-Cipri/

Cheryl’s Final Project

We are dogs’ biggest enemy and we are here to save pet owners. 

What do dogs get excited about besides playing fetch? The answer is food. They would eat anything. So don’t you hate to see your dog stealing snacks from the food cabin? It is almost like your money getting stolen by your child at home. Nobody likes that. 

Lightbox is an interior decor that serves as your food cabin guard with an “implanted” buzzer, a movement sensor, and surrounding lights. When the dog approaches the Lightbox, the sensor will sense movement and enable the buzzer to activate and the light to change color as a way to warn and scare away your greedy dog.   

Lasercutting
Circuit diagram

Soldering

Assembling

https://www.instructables.com/Stay-Away-Lightbox/

Arshi’s Final Project

Introduction:

“Why don’t you call me anymore?” – Mom

Since it’s a different time all around the world, it gets very difficult to track down what time to call my parents or what time to watch the soccer game live from the UK. With this timezone clock- you are able to press on a specific country, and it will display the time in that country.

Living in the U.S has made me realize how many of my shows and soccer games I was missing so I designed this timezone world lamp to help me know what time it is in another country.

Understanding Spheres & 2D Patterns.

By comparing a map and a globe, I realized that a 2D pattern would not make sense in a 3D globe. The geography looks totally different between the two because spheres are deceptively simple. I tried multiple spheres patterns to test out how it would fit on a globe.

Essentially, it’s mathematically impossible to get the visuals from a globe to lie distortion free in a rectangular 2D pattern. To calculate the size of the print, i sized the circumference of the globe to match longitudinally to the size of the pattern.

To replicate this pattern onto any spheres, measure the diameter of the globe and then scale the length of the pattern to match the diameter.

Building the Circuit

For the capacitive touch sensor, I used the 8-Key Capacitive Touch Sensor Breakout. Using the instructions from the Adafruit website, I was able to wire up and use the test code instructions. For the screen display, I used the Standard LCD 16×2. Test both the

Because I am using two i2c devices, I had to change the address for one of them. We do this to connect a bridge to the solder pads. The diagram on Adafruit shows how to perform this carefully. The code also needs to match so we need to adjust it accordingly.

Now we can connect the data and clock lines in parallel. The diagram shows it with two different i2c devices but with a different microcontroller board.

Write the Code and Test the Connections

Link to instructables: https://www.instructables.com/Timezone-World-Lamp/

Bill of materials

Tools:

  • X-Acto Knife
  •  Ruler
  •  Sharpie
  •  Printer
  •  Cutting mat
  • Masking tape
  • USB cable

Xinyue’s Mini Music Stage

Every music lover desires a stage, but not everyone has a stage, and not everyone likes to participate in that kind of public stage. I want to create a new experience for music lovers. Whether it is practicing musical instruments, karaoke, or playing music, the stage will change different effects according to the rhythm. Everyone can have their own music stage!

https://www.instructables.com/Mini-Music-StageSound-Visualization-Device/

About Shape

I got inspiration from this stage.

Modeling process

1. Cut Acrylic

I used Rhino to make a model first, and then laser cut it.

2. Making fiber optic tubes

3. Drilling

4. Assembly

5. Combine the Circuit With the Acrylic Frame

5. Fix the fiber tube with hot glue

Circuit and code process

Improvements and prospects:

  1. Add button to change modes, so don’t need upload code to Gemma to change modes.
  2. Separate the base from the column and use the Lego principle to make it easier to assemble, and easy to carry and transport.
  3. The stage can fix any characters or props you like.

Reduce costs and go to the market!

Finally, thank you Corey, Cathy, Qiting, Liam, Gee and all other Pod students! Last but not the least, Becky!!! Superwomen!