Mallika’s ‘Mine-crafted life’ Halloween Costume


The thought behind the project

The severed Minecraft head is a prop for a halloween costume, acting like a trick or treat basket. Constructed from acrylic/polyethylene/polypropylene sheets, the head is painted with the signature pixelated aesthetic and features internal RGBW LED strips inside the box. The primary function is to express four distinct “moods”—Angry (red light), Sad (blue light), Disgust (green light), and Happy (yellow light)—by dynamically shifting the color of the internal lighting. The basket includes a red handle and a “severed neck” base, with black paint for the eyes and mouth, ensuring both visual impact and a clear pathway for the light to shine through. The shades of the pixels are created by painting multiple coats of acrylic paint on the surface to help create a opaque and translucent light dispersal.

The prop’s intention is to blend the nostalgia of my brother and my shared love for Minecraft with a playful Halloween fright. By presenting the instantly recognizable Creeper head in a dark context—a “severed neck” basket—it introduces a darkly humorous twist on a beloved game element. The dynamic, shifting NeoPixel lights (from “angry” red to “sad” blue) use in-game visuals to create an eerie, mood-depicting glow, transforming our childhood interests into a uniquely personal and subtly unsettling costume piece.

Concept sketch

Materials & Parts

  • 1/4″ white translucent acrylic sheet – For the main structure, laser cut to make a 8×8″ cube. Purchased from the VFL.
  • (2) RGBW LED Neopixel Sticks – For the light source, I had one in my kit. Borrowed another one from Jay.
  • Adafruit Gemma M0For the code, already there in my kit.
  • Electrical wires – For the light source, already there in my kit.
  • USB Battery Pack – For the battery, already there in my kit.
  • Solder – For the light source, taken from the VFL.
  • Acrylic paint – For the tones in the light, to paint the pixels on the inside surface of the sheet.
  • Acrylic cementSolvent that helps join the acrylic together.
  • Paint brushes – To paint the pixels. Already had them, any paintbrushes work.
  • Hot glue gun – To glue the top and bottom to the acrylic box. Taken from PoD.
  • Foam board – To make the severed neck of the head. Already had some.
  • 2.5 mm wire – To make the handle, taken from the VFL.

TinkerCAD circuit

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/39yYl1YGqdN-halloween-tinkering

Code

Process

Soldering the physical circuit
Laser cutting the 1/4″ acrylic
Testing the translucency of light
Painting the face & pixels on acrylic
Painting the pixels on foam board
Assembly of the prop
Attaching the handle and testing the light

The completed ‘Mine-Crafted’ life prop


At the NYC Halloween Parade

My journey and experience

Crafting a Minecraft head costume with NeoPixel sticks illuminating it from within was honestly an ambitious but fun project. While the soldering proved to be a real challenge, trying to attach those tiny wires to the compact Gemma M0 board tested both my patience and my dexterity, the final result made it all worthwhile. Parading through the streets of NYC for the Halloween parade was an incredible cultural experience, with the energy of the crowd and the creativity on display making every frustrating moment at my workbench fade away. Looking back, if I were to build this prop again, I’d construct the top and bottom sections in acrylic as well, rather than just the sides, to achieve a fully translucent effect that would really let those NeoPixels shine through every surface and create an even more striking glow.

A special mention and big thank you to everyone, especially Becky, Josh, the entire VFL team, Rhea and Manya who helped me see this project through till the end, believing that I could execute it! Thank you to Becky and Smokey for accompanying my friends and I to the parade as well! Thank you for your support!



Mallika’s Halloween Costume Pt.4

‘Mine-crafted life’

Progress

Final 4 moods with RGBW color codes
Planned pixel map for the box

Updated TinkerCAD Circuit link
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/39yYl1YGqdN-halloween-tinkering

Updated Code for Gemma

Soldering physical circuit

Re-soldering the wires to
the Neopixel stick
Cables soldered to both
Neopixel sticks
Wires twisted and soldered to Gemma

Physical circuit running code

Process photos of the Box

Laser cutting the 1/4″ Acrylic sheet
Laser cut pieces
(4 faces + 3 testers for light)
Temporarily assembled box
Gathering supplies to paint the pixels
Testing the opacity of paint
on the testers cut
Realizing the pixels should be
painted on the inside of the box
Experimenting with light and
tones with 3 testers
Final shades of yellow
Final shades of red
Final shades of green
Final shades of blue
Making the grid lines for
pixels on the inside of the box
Painting the eyes and mouth of
the Minecraft head

T0-Do list

  • Painting the pixels on acrylic
  • Make remaining components (top and bottom of the head, severed neck and handle out of chipboard)
  • Gluing the structure together
  • Final assembly of the prop

Thank you!

Mallika’s Halloween Costume Pt.3

‘Mine-crafted life’

Recap with updates

The severed Minecraft head is a prop for a halloween costume, acting like a trick or treat basket. Constructed from 1/4″ white translucent acrylic sheets, the head is painted with the signature pixelated aesthetic and features 2 internal RGBW LED Neopixel sticks placed in the center of the cube, covered with an opaque material (like chipboard) on the top and bottom faces. The primary function is to express four distinct “moods”—Angry (red light), Sad (blue light), Disgust (green light), and Happy (yellow light)—by dynamically shifting the color of the internal lighting. The basket includes a red handle and a “severed neck” base, with black paint for the eyes and mouth, ensuring both visual impact and a clear pathway for the light to shine through. The shades of the pixels are created by painting multiple coats of acrylic paint on the surface to help create a opaque and translucent light dispersal. The updated size for the cube is 8″x8″, with 1″x1″ pixels.

Updated Materials List

  • 1/4″ white translucent acrylic sheet – For the main structure, laser cut to make a 8×8″ cube. I will purchase this from the VFL once the laser cutting machine is functional on Friday.
  • (2) RGBW LED Neopixel Sticks – I had one in my kit, borrowed another one from Jay.
  • Poly-fill – To disperse the light inside the cube, already there in my kit.
  • Adafruit Gemma board – Already there in my kit.
  • Electrical wires – Already there in my kit.
  • USB Battery Pack – Already there in my kit.
  • Acrylic paint – To paint the pixels on the surface of the sheet and create tonality. I have some at home, will get more from Michaels if needed.
  • Solder – From the VFL.

Tools

  • Laser cutter (The filtration system of the laser cutter is currently down, it will be replaced on Thursday, I can cut out the structure on Friday. I thought of cutting the acrylic using an acrylic cutter but I have been advised against that by the VFL because of the thickness of the acrylic.)
  • Soldering Iron (Available in the VFL)
  • Acrylic joining solvent (Available in the VFL)
  • Wire strippers (Available in the VFL)
  • Wire snips (Available in the VFL)
  • X-acto knife (I have my own)
  • Acrylic cutter (Available in the VFL)

Progress

Making a 4 sides box frame in acrylic with finger joints, the top and bottom will be covered with chipboard with a grey scale pixel pattern.

Laser cutting file is ready.

  • Tinkering with the Arduino code

TinkerCAD circuit with my code on it

I made the circuit public but it is showing pending on TinkerCAD.

Tinkering with my own code
My tinker code
Tinkering with the Chat GPT code
Chat GPT’s tinker code

To-Do list

  • Test light dispersion on small pieces of acrylic to see light and shadows with white paint
  • Make components
  • Final Arduino code
  • Laser cutting of structure
  • Solder the Neopixel sticks to each other
  • Load code on Gemma
  • Assembly

Thank you!

Mallika’s Halloween Costume Pt.2

Description of ‘Mine-crafted life’

Sketch of updated idea

The severed Minecraft head is a prop for a halloween costume, acting like a trick or treat basket. Constructed from acrylic/polyethylene/polypropylene sheets, the head is painted with the signature pixelated aesthetic and features internal RGBW LED strips sandwiched between inner and outer walls. The primary function is to express four distinct “moods”—Angry (red light), Sad (blue light), Disgust (green light), and Happy (yellow light)—by dynamically shifting the color of the internal lighting. The basket includes a red handle and a “severed neck” base, with black paint for the eyes and mouth, ensuring both visual impact and a clear pathway for the light to shine through. The shades of the pixels are created by painting multiple coats of acrylic paint on the surface to help create a opaque and translucent light dispersal.

Intention of ‘Mine-crafted life’

The prop’s intention is to blend the nostalgia of my brother and my shared love for Minecraft with a playful Halloween fright. By presenting the instantly recognizable Creeper head in a dark context—a “severed neck” basket—it introduces a darkly humorous twist on a beloved game element. The dynamic, shifting NeoPixel lights (from “angry” red to “sad” blue) use in-game visuals to create an eerie, mood-depicting glow, transforming our childhood interests into a uniquely personal and subtly unsettling costume piece.

Arduino techniques to be used

Using the colorWipe or crossFade function in Arduino to help transition between the 4 RGBW colors in the NeoPixel.

Materials and parts

  • Translucent white Acrylic/Polyethylene/Polypropylene sheet (As the main material for the basket, its handle and neck.) – I’m having a little trouble finding Polypropylene sheets in the translucency, size and thickness that would be suitable for the 12″ x 12″ size of the basket head. Here’s a few links of what I found:
    1. Polypropylene sheets (TAP plastics) –
    Tap Plastics link
    (This seems like a clear sheet, I was going for a white translucent sheet)

    2. Polypropylene sheets (Amazon) –
    Amazon Link
    (The size limitation is 12″ x12″, I might need a bigger size for making the handle and top frame to cover the walls. If I get this, I will have to join multiple pieces together)

    3. Polyethylene sheets HDPE Plastic Sheet Board (Amazon) –
    Amazon Link
    (I read that this material also has similar translucency and light dispersion properties as acrylic, but seems a little expensive for the size I want)

    4. Acrylic sheets (Canal Plastics) –
    Canal Plastics Link
    (This seems okay to me, alternatively I could get the acrylic from the VFL and be careful not to break it)
  • RGBW LED Strips – I was planning on getting either 8 shorter strips or 2 long ones that can span the entire cube.
  • Poly-fill – To disperse the light well in between the inner and outer walls of the cube.
  • Adafruit Gemma board – If its possible to link 2 separate LEDs to one board, I intend on doing that, otherwise, I will get another Gemma board.
  • Breadboard + Electrical wires
  • USB Battery Pack
  • Acrylic paint – To paint the pixels on the surface of the sheet and create tonality.
  • Solder

Tools

  • Laser cutter
  • Soldering Iron
  • Hot glue gun
  • Wire strippers
  • Wire snips
  • X-acto knife

To-Do list

  • Figure out number and specifications of LED strips needed
  • Finalise circuit diagram
  • Tinker with Arduino code to get my color-changing motion
  • Finalize on material for the main structure
  • Test light dispersion on small pieces of acrylic to see light and shadows with white paint
  • Make 3D model for idea, to ease construction
  • Illustrator file for laser cutting

Thank you!

Mallika’s NeoPixel Circuit & Halloween costume ideas

NeoPixel Circuit

The soldering setup
Soldering the wires to the GND, Input and 5V
Connecting the circuit
The finished NeoPixel circuit

Halloween Costume Ideas

Mine-Crafted Life

As a teen, I was honestly addicted to Minecraft. The endless possibilities of the game and the fun pixels were all I could think about, bringing me to this halloween costume, “mine-crafted life”. It is a concept for light-up Minecraft-themed props: a Creeper head, a torch, and a severed head basket. Constructed from acrylic or foam board, they feature separate LED strips and mesh for breathability in the head. The main feature is the Creeper head’s mood-depicting light change, using colors like red (‘angry’) or yellow (‘happy’). The torch will have a controller to adjust brightness, and the parts will be painted to preserve the pixelated aesthetic.

The crazy LEGO scientist

Till date, my favorite activity is to make LEGO puzzles. I feel like it is as de-stressing for me as laying in a pool floating for hours. Which brings me to this idea of the “Crazy LEGO Scientist” costume. An illuminated twist to the classic LEGO Mini figure, central to the concept is an oversized, light-up LEGO head with crazed hair and features. This is further exaggerated by the glasses, which incorporate a spiral light loop to simulate a buzzing, electric energy, fitting the scientist’s unstable persona. To complete the laboratory look, the scientist carries a light-up chemical potion beaker, specifically noted to contain a “blood potion” that also illuminates, adding a touch of fun to this bright and eccentric costume.

The Tetris costume

I designed this Tetris costume because I’ve always found a deep sense of satisfaction in making things fit together perfectly, much like the game itself. The costume concept translates that love into a fun, interactive Halloween piece: a grid filled with colorful Tetris blocks that are given a spooky twist with glowing faces. The play here is of the blocks falling in a loop with different colored lights, and could even switch on when touched and be made interactive. This whole project appeals to my desire to create a cohesive, whimsical, and visually compelling halloween costume.

I’m currently not too sure of the parts I will be needing for the circuits, but I do have a general idea of the materials I want to make the forms for the costume in!

Thank you!

Mallika’s ‘Heart in the right place’ Night Light


The thought behind the project
In a world full of Jellycats, ‘Heart in the right place’ is a night light for developing children who love a pop of color and personality to their spaces. The fun and whimsy night light aims to appeal to the children through not just the playful form, but also promote an appreciation for their natural surroundings. Made from waste fabric leftover at home, the night light uses contrasting fabrics to help portray a world with and without nature in an abstract way. The heart in the centre of the plush night light is the heart of the bunny, accentuated with a soft illuminating glow. Lastly, another area that helped forward this idea is the thought of utilizing fabric scraps and promoting sustainability in a small but meaningful way.

Continue reading “Mallika’s ‘Heart in the right place’ Night Light”

Mallika’s Arduino Exercises

1. Blinking an LED

Using the system default input

Using custom blink delay = 100ms

Tinker CAD LED Blinking circuit – https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1zyRurgD2Da-smashing-kasi

2. Blinking multiple LEDs

3. Making an LED fade

Fade amount = 9

4. Making an RGB circuit using 3 different LEDs

5. Making a crossfade RGB circuit using 3 different LEDs

6. Making a RGB circuit using a single color changing LED

7. Making a push button digital input LED circuit

Using the system default input


Reversing the input

8. Push button digital serial monitor


9. Making a potentiometer analog input LED circuit

Serial monitor reading

Thank you!!

Mallika’s Plush Night Light Proposal

A. MAKING THE LED CIRCUIT

Soldering setup


Final LED circuit

After a careful and stressful attempt at soldering a LED circuit, I managed to successfully complete the circuit and get the white LED to light up!

B. PLUSH PROTOTYPE – ANIMAL FORM

Step 1: Making a paper pattern
and placing on the short fur
fabric to estimate fabric
length needed.
Step 2: Tracing the paper
pattern onto the fabric.
Step 3: Pinning the pattern to the fabric to cut 2 identical pieces.
Step 4: Having 2 identical
fabric pieces.
Step 5: Creating a pocket for the
animal form and stitching 3
sides of it with a running stitch.
Step 6: Completed stitched pocket.
Step 7: Placing both fabric
pieces to face each other
and doing a backstitch to
secure the edges.
Step 8: Clipping and stitching
both pieces, cutting off excess
fabric on edges while
leaving a margin.
Step 9: Turning the plush toy inside out and filling it with poly fill. Subsequently stitching the top shut using a ladder stitch.

Completed plush toy (Looks like a Mouflon on 4 legs to me)

C. PLUSH NIGHT LIGHT IDEATIONS

IDEA 1 – ‘Heart in the right place’ plush nightlight

  • Target user – Children between the ages of 3-12 years of age
  • Description – ‘Heart in the right place’ is a bunny plush made to appeal developing children, to make them more appreciative of their natural surroundings. The toy uses contrasting plain and patterned fabric to show the two sides of the world – with and without nature. The heart placed in the center has a soft illuminating glow that lights up to display warmth.
  • Materials and parts – Potentially uses 5 yellow LEDs to help illuminate the heart. The main fabrics envisioned for this plush are Linen and Cotton to help soften the glow, making it subtle but present. Alternatively, I also envisioned using a patchwork of scraps to help give it more personality, promote crafts and help manage fabric waste.

IDEA 2 – ‘Matryoshka doll light’

  • Target user – Children between the ages of 11-15 years of age
  • Description – The ‘Matryoshka’ doll is inspired by traditional Russian dolls crafted in wood. The silhouette of the form is envisioned to be soft and huggable. The idea for this derives from my brief stay at Russia as a child, bringing me back to the nostalgic curiosity of the shape and stacking of these dolls. Traditionally, there are multiple sizes fitted one inside another, which can be thought of too. Essentially, I wanted to create a soft form that can be customized according to the child’s taste while still having some depiction of their cultural identity or personality.
  • Materials and parts – Potentially uses 8 LEDs to help illuminate the neck and base of the doll. The form is made of fabrics such as felt or linen, while the customizable part can either be a zipper sleeve added externally or a whiteboard like material wrapped around it to enable the user to interact with the product.

IDEA 3 – ‘Tiffany lamp shade plushies’

  • Target user – Not restricted to any specific age group
  • Description – The ‘Tiffany’ Lamp shade is an age old glass cutting and forming method that uses tiffany glass, creating visually interesting and colorful pieces. This plush softens the same vintage art form creating a stained glass effect but in the form of a plush night light. I envision this piece to be a combination of colorful LEDs and felt fabric. This night light will not only create interesting patterns and have a vibrant appeal, but also, be a nice keep sake for people interested in the appeal of the traditional tiffany lamps.
  • Materials and parts – Potentially has 10 LEDs in different colors to create interest and intrigue. The fabric thought of for this plush light is felt with certain cutouts in acrylic that can help disperse the light softly. The opacity of the felt fabric will help create a good contrast to the translucency of acrylic.

Wireless Mouse Teardown

Product name: JLCPCB Wireless Bluetooth Mouse

Teardown process

Part teardown

1. Anti-slip mouse skates

Material: Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)/Teflon plastic
Function: Allows the mouse to glide smoothly with minimal friction on surfaces, keeps the mouse elevated from the surface.
Manufacturing techniques: High-precision die-cutting, CNC milling or solid machining.

2. Manufacturing sticker

Material: ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) plastic
Function: Helps connect the mouse to the computer by converting radio frequency signals into signals that can be understood by the computer.
Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding.

7. USB-A receiver housing cap

Material: ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) plastic
Function: Helps enclose the components of the receiver within the housing.
Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding.

8. USB-A receiver EMI/EMF shielding

Material: Aluminum
Function: Prevents external interference from entering and prevents internal noise from escaping.
Manufacturing techniques: Stamping of metal sheet.

9. USB-A System on a Chip (SoC)

Material: Silicon, aluminum and copper
Function: Creating a single integrated circuit to help transmit and receive data that allows the mouse to function.
Manufacturing techniques: Wafer production, photolithography, etching, ion implantation, deposition, planarization, and metallization.

13. Battery coil positive terminal

Material: Nickel-coated music wire/Stainless steel
Function: Aid the electrical connection of the mouse, while providing mechanical support to the battery.
Manufacturing techniques: Coiling, heat treatment, grinding, finishing and plating.

14. Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Material: Fiberglass (FR-4), Copper
Function: Translates user movements and clicks into digital signals that can be understood by the computer.
Manufacturing techniques: Software design, substrate preparation, fabrication and etching.

15. Micro switch Type A

Material: Polycarbonate (PC), Polyphenylene Terephthalate (PBT), or nylon for the housing, Metal contacts
Function: Provide tactile feedback, ensure responsiveness and functionality of the mouse.
Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding, stamping, shaping, forming.

16. Micro switch Type B

Material: Polycarbonate (PC)/Polyphenylene Terephthalate (PBT)
Function: Provide tactile feedback, ensure responsiveness and functionality of the mouse.
Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding.

17. Micro switch Type C

Material: Polycarbonate (PC)/Polyphenylene Terephthalate (PBT)
Function: Provide tactile feedback, ensure responsiveness and functionality of the mouse.
Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding.

18. Optical mouse sensor

Material: A tiny camera (CMOS sensor), semiconductor substrate, plastics, and various metals
Function: Illuminates the surface beneath the mouse, capturing a series of images of the surface’s texture with a tiny camera sensor.
Manufacturing techniques: Semiconductor fabrication techniques.

19. LED Light

Material: Aluminium gallium indium phosphide alloys and indium gallium nitride alloys
Function: Detect the changes beneath the mouse, and to track the movement of the cursor.
Manufacturing techniques: Semiconductor wafer creation, chip formation, etching and coating.

20. Toggle switch housing

Material: ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)
Function: Houses the actuator that helps control the mouse circuit.
Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding.

21. Toggle switch actuator

Material: ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)
Function:
Allows the mouse to manually be switched on and off.
Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding.

22. M1.6 screw

Material: Carbon steel/Stainless steel/Alloy steel
Function:
Holds the bottom mouse shell and middle mouse shell together.
Manufacturing techniques: Straightening, cold heading and thread rolling.

23. F-Switch component encasing

Material: Aluminum
Function: Helps complete the circuit of the mouse.
Manufacturing techniques: Die-cutting, stamping.

24. F-Switch component housing

Material: ABS/Other polymer blends
Function: Houses the internal components of the F-Switch to complete the circuit.
Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding.

25. F-Switch component contact

Material: Gold/silver-plated metal
Function: Prevent oxidation and ensure good electrical conduction.
Manufacturing techniques: Die-cutting, stamping.

26. F-Switch component core

Material: ABS/Other polymer blends
Function: Mechanical scroll wheel encoder.
Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding.

27. Scroll wheel

Material: ABS/Polycarbonate
Function: Aids the functionality of the mouse.
Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding or insert molding.

Teardown Process

Step 1: Remove mouse skates
and stickers using tweezers
and a small flathead
screwdriver.
Step 2: Remove USB receiver
from the mouse shell bottom.
Step 3: Separate the top and middle mouse shell.
Step 4: Unscrew the middle
shell from the bottom mouse
shell using a small Phillips head screwdriver.
Step 5: Keep all 3 shells
separately so as to view
the circuit in the bottom
mouse shell.
Step 6: Remove the AA battery from the bottom mouse shell.
Step 7: Remove the scroll
wheel from the bottom
mouse shell.
Step 8: Remove the PCB,
toggle switch housing
and actuator from the
bottom mouse shell.
Step 9: Remove the USB-C
port from the slot in
the bottom mouse shell.
Step 10: Remove the type A micro switches from the PCB.
Step 11: Remove the positive
and negative terminals
of the battery coil from
the PCB.
Step 12: Remove the type B micro switches from the PCB.
Step 13: Carefully separate
the optical mouse sensor
from the PCB.
Step 14: Carefully remove and
separate the components
of the F-switch.
Step 15: Detach the LED light
from the PCB.
Step 16: Take out the USB-A
receiver and separate
the shielding from the
housing.
Step 17: Open the shielding to
expose and remove the SoC.
Step 18: As the last step of the teardown, separate the
pieces of the USB-A receiver.

Notable design elements

  • The USB-A receiver housing was quite interesting to me as the slotting mechanism at the bottom of the housing not only made it easy to disassemble the part, but also must’ve eased assembly of the receiver. The sleekness of the cap was ergonomically great to open the piece using just an index finger and thumb. Lastly, the ridges on the bottom of the housing acted as a good grip as well for easy removal from the USB port.
  • The overall transparency of the mouse shells evoked a lot of curiosity for me personally, since I was able to see all the components at once. The composition that all the parts created together also gave me a sense of engagement with the product. Lastly, the transparency of the mouse shells also helped see the internal working of the mouse.

Hi! I’m Mallika!

I am a design student from India with a Bachelor of Design degree and a diverse cultural background, having grown up in different parts of India. I graduated from the National Institute of Fashion Technology (New Delhi) in 2023 with a Major in Fashion & Lifestyle Accessories, along with a Minor in Space Display & Presentation Design.

My formal education in design exposed me to the lateral horizons of User-centric  Design, Packaging design, Design for Social Innovation, Branding, and Visual Communication, while my innate interest has always been in Lifestyle Accessories and Furniture. I was previously working as a furniture designer at a luxury furniture company in India – Wriver, where my role was to manage the Furniture Accessories vertical within the company. I, thereby contributed to the entire lifecycle of product development, from initial conceptualization to final visualization. One of the products that I made for the company was recently awarded the SIT Design Award 2025, which was an exciting achievement for me!

Throughout my journey with design, my thorough design process has been my constant companion. The tangibility of design has made the journey of my designs my means of expressing myself. Some of my hobbies include engaging in creative pursuits, journaling, exploring new places, trying new foods, and organizing things.

Having had no background or experience in computer science or coding, I am quite excited about learning how to code and integrate electronics into product design, however, the challenge of exploring a new field is also seemingly daunting.