The modem is primarily made of plastic for the outer container, and contains metals like copper and aluminum in its internal electronic parts. The circuit board is made from fiberglass, gold and other materials.
The electronics all exist on a single circuit board.
Tools Used: Hands Small screwdriver Pliers
Technique To me, the takedown for this felt rather straightforward.
1. I used pliers to peel back the sticky tabs (feet) on the bottom of the modem 2. I used the screwdriver to take out the small screws holding the body together. Then I used my hands to pry open the body which revealed the circuit board. 3.I used my pliers to cut the rubber screws holding the Cable Modem chip in place, which released the springs and allowed me to remove it -> pictured below.
Parts Note: I found it a bit difficult to find the exact model of my modem online, so I used similar devices to try and identify the electronic parts.
I inserted the quote below to provide context around the parts that I could not identify.
“The cable modem chip connects to two memory chips, one a synchronous DRAM, the other a Flash. The flash chip lets the cable company change aspects of the subscriber’s internet service without actually changing any hardware. In that regard, the flash chip holds configuration data and comes into play, say, when a cable subscriber buys more download speed from the cable company.” – https://www.microcontrollertips.com/teardown-inside-cable-modem/
The device I took apart is what I believe to be the Fitbit Flex. Released as one of Fitbit’s earlier activity trackers, the Flex stood out for its minimalist design: no screen, just a slim core module that tracked steps, activity, and sleep while sitting inside a flexible rubber wristband. Its simplicity and lightweight build made it popular, and the removable band design allowed users to swap colors and styles with ease.
Tools I used for this teardown:
My hands
Tweezers
Precision screwdriver handle
Extra smaller precision screwdriver handle for the tiniest screws
To begin the teardown, I first removed the tracker from the band. Since the Flex was designed to be interchangeable, this step was fairly easy—I just used my hands to press and slide the small tracker module out of the wristband. Once I had the core in hand, I noticed there were three tiny screws securing it to the band, although one was already missing. Using my precision screwdriver, I carefully removed the remaining screws. Because of their size, I switched to an even smaller screwdriver handle to make sure I didn’t strip or lose them.
With the screws removed, the tracker was free from the strap, leaving me with the main module ready for further disassembly.
After removing the module from the band, we can see the silicone strap with its inner plastic casing that holds the electronics in place. Inside the cavity is a rubber insert, which helps reinforce the housing and keep the capsule secure. Next to it is the main capsule, which contains the circuit board, chips, and the LED indicator section. There’s also some adhesive residue around the housing, showing how the unit was sealed into the strap.
Upon further examination of the unit, we can see that the capsule houses all the core electronics. The main PCB (printed circuit board) is exposed, with various chips, sensors, and contact pads visible. At one end sits the LED indicator array, responsible for displaying the familiar row of dots on the tracker. The construction shows how compactly everything is integrated into a single module, designed to slide neatly into the strap while remaining water-resistant and durable.
I continued to pry open the Fitbit Flex using tweezers and observed the battery section. There’s a circular coin-cell battery, which looks like a standard lithium battery for small devices. Next to it, there’s a square replaceable battery with the markings +LSSP031420AB – 531869887, connected to the PCB via a small connector.
The NFC antenna is also visible. It’s a thin coil integrated into a flexible PCB, and during the teardown, it was broken. On the Flex, this antenna isn’t used for payments; it primarily handles wireless signal functions, like aiding Bluetooth syncing or device detection.
Opening the case exposes the main circuit board. At the center is a white flex connector, which links the board to the battery and sensors. Around it are gold test pads used in manufacturing to check the circuits.
On the left is the cavity for the vibration motor, responsible for buzz alerts. The right side shows the battery compartment, where the lithium-polymer cell normally sits, with contacts connecting to the board. The yellow gasket material around the edges helps seal and protect the electronics from sweat and movement.
The main printed circuit board (PCB) sits in the module, holding the microcontroller, memory, accelerometer, and power management circuitry that make the Flex track steps, monitor sleep, and sync with your phone.
On the PCB, there are small white label stickers with QR codes. These are identification labels that contain information like serial numbers, batch numbers, and part identifiers. They are used during manufacturing for tracking, testing, and quality control, and don’t affect the device’s normal operation.
The Fitbit Flex is built starting with the rigid multilayer PCB, where copper traces and vias are etched and laminated. Surface-mount components like the microcontroller, memory, accelerometer, PMIC, LEDs, and tiny resistors and capacitors are placed on the board using pick-and-place machines and soldered in reflow ovens. The NFC antenna is etched onto a flexible PCB, while the battery and connectors are attached with solder and adhesive. The silicone band is injection-molded, and the tracker module is snapped into place. After assembly, each unit is tested for step tracking, Bluetooth syncing, vibration, and LEDs using test fixtures and optical inspection.
Two design elements that interested me are the removable rechargeable battery and the NFC antenna. I found it really interesting that the Fitbit Flex has a replaceable battery, and even an extra one tucked in the module. The designers likely added this to extend the device’s lifespan, letting users swap batteries instead of replacing the whole tracker. It also adds convenience for servicing and ensures the device remains reliable over time. The thin copper NFC antenna also caught my attention. Even though the Flex doesn’t use it for payments, it’s included to enhance wireless communication, like improving Bluetooth syncing or device detection. Its compact and flexible placement shows careful consideration for space, signal strength, and interference with other components.
In conclusion, the Fitbit Flex’s tracker module showcases a compact, efficient design. From the replaceable battery to the PCB with the microcontroller and accelerometer, and the LEDs and NFC antenna, every component serves a specific function while minimizing size. The device’s modularity, careful component placement, and lightweight design highlight the thoughtfulness of the engineering and make the Flex both functional and durable.
My first Making Studio assignment involved disassembling an old AquaSonic electric toothbrush. It appears that this model is no longer available for sale on the AquaSonic e-commerce website.
As this was my first teardown, there was a lot to learn! I struggled to find full teardown examples of electric toothbrushes, but was able to use some common sense and guessing to get started. Other than encountering some unfortunate toothbrush-related gunk, I was pleasantly surprised at how smoothly the first half of the process unfolded. However, I ran into quite a bit of trouble removing the circuit board (16) and Li-Ion battery (15) from the interior plastic framework (20). I was hesitant to exert too much brute force as I was fearful of damaging the battery.
Here is a visual breakdown of my chronological process. The parts are numbered in the order in which they were taken apart, and can be referenced in the parts section further down.
While attempting to remove the Printed Circuit Board/PCB (16), a lot of LED indicators (PCB 04) lit up, and I was unable to turn them off for a while. The intensity of the light was surprisingly bright.
I eventually used wirecutters and a larger screwdriver to remove the PCB (16) from the plastic framework (20), and the Li-Ion battery (15) was easily removable after that.
COMPONENTS
1. Outer Case: plastic 2. Brush Connector Base: plastic 3. Motor Shaft Bearing: steel? 4. Top Gasket: plastic 5. Button Covers: silicon or rubber 6. Screws: stainless steel 7. Top Ring: rubber 8. Motor O-ring: rubber 9. Motor Gasket: rubber 10. Motor Case: steel 11. Small Brush Motor O-ring: plastic or rubber 12. Charging Base Clip: plastic + metal (copper?) 13. TBD Brush Motor Part: plastic? 14. Brush Motor Rotor + Vibrating Rod: copper coil, steel 15. 14500 Li-Ion Battery Cell: lithium, nickel, cobalt, maybe manganese(?) 16. PCB: copper, fiberglass, resin 17. Base O-ring Seal: silicon or rubber 18. Charger Coil: copper 19. Base: plastic 20. Inner Frame: plastic
Chip Details I was unable to locate any part numbers on the chips. Some research suggests that they are surface-mounted Integrated Chips (IC) with Dual in-Line Package (DIP) form factors. It seems that the larger one is likely a Microcontroller (MCU), which controls motor speed, timing, LED indicators, charging, etc. The other is possibly a Power Management chip, controlling battery charging and protection from overcharging.
Type: TBD Manufacturer: TBD
MANUFACTURING
01. Plastic Injection Molding is used to create the internal plastic pieces (frame, button covers) and outer case. This involves melting plastic pellets (polycarbonate, polypropylene, ABS) and injecting them into precision molds. Parts are removed after cooling. This technique is used to ensure precision and water resistance. 02. PCB Manufacturing + Assembly involves photolithography, surface-mount technology (SMT), and solder mask application 03. Metal Stamping/Machining is used to create motor shafts and other metal components. Sheet metal stamping, turning, and precision machining are techniques that are used in this process. 04. Li-Ion Battery Cell Manufacturing happens under very controlled conditions. It involves various steps that conclude with packaging. 05. Motor Assembly is crucial to ensuring the brush will vibrate. Copper wires are coiled around rotors, and all motor-related parts (rings, gaskets, bearings, etc.) are assembled. 06. Final Assembly occurs when all components are combined using manual or automated assembly methods. Adhesive sealing or ultrasonic welding techniques are used to waterproof.
TOOLS/TECHNIQUES
01. Wire Cutter: Used to remove the PCB (16) from the plastic frame (20), also used to remove the base (19) from the plastic frame (20) 02. Screwdriver: used to pry apart larger/more unwieldy pieces (like removing the PCB board from the plastic framework) 03. Small Steel Screwdriver: used to unscrew screws (06) and to pry apart small pieces that were glued together 04. Wrench: Used to grip and remove larger parts that were glued together 05. My Hand (Not Pictured): Used during the entire teardown process to manipulate tools, etc.
DESIGN ELEMENTS
01. I found it interesting that the interface is very simple (compared with most of their current models). There are two buttons (05); the top one is the power button and is labeled “ON/OFF”. As it no longer functions, I am inferring that the second “button” is a charging indicator. This simple interface is representative of the limited capabilities/modes.
02. Indented arch shapes on the back of the outer case (01) seem to be placed where one’s fingers would go when gripping the toothbrush. It is a nice ergonomic touch.
03. (Not Picture) Overall, it is clear that this was not designed to be taken apart. I’m curious how much of this is due to capitalism, discouraging DIY fixes and encouraging new purchases, and if any of it has to do with safety due to the lithium battery.
<First Impressions> In the first random draw, I got a modem, but I switched to a Bluetooth speaker instead. Not exactly the one I’ve used before, but close enough. The control panel was all placed on the top, which made it feel pretty straightforward to handle. It powered on and the lights came on, but the Bluetooth connection was unstable.
Size : Its dimensions measured about 4 inches in height × 2½ inches in width × 1½ inches in depth(approximately 101 × 63 × 38 mm), and it weighed around 190 g.
Since it had the J@LB logo on the front and text printed on the bottom plate, I was able to get a rough idea of the device. I looked it up first before getting into the teardown. The product featured a transparent housing design, 5W output(Max), a 5V 500 mAh battery.
by the way, I found the J@LC label refers to JLCPCB, a major PCB manufacturer in China. They are widely known for quick and affordable production services, frequently used by DIY makers, engineers, and startups.⇢ https://jlcpcb.com
<Tools>
Heat Gun
Side Cutter
Long Nose Pliers
Cutter
Hex Bit (Torx)
<Teardown Steps>
Step 1) I began with removing the tiny screws located at the top corners of the casing. The screws were extremely small, so I used the smallest hex-shaped driver I could find to remove them. Even then, the screws were a bit smaller than the driver tip, so I had to apply some extra force to get them loose.
Step 2) This exposed the button mechanisms behind the control panel. Each external button is backed by a tactile switch soldered directly onto the PCB(board), aligned to match the labeled functions—power, mode, volume +/-, and play/pause. The setup is straightforward: pressing the button pushes directly on the switch, closing the circuit on the board.
Step 3) After removing the transparent casing, I examined both the front and the back. The front held the control panel, while the back was structured to hold the battery.
Step 4-1) On closer inspection of the board, it sits directly behind the control panel. Each external button (Power, Next/Volume + , Mode/ LED, Previous/Volume-) corresponds to a tactile switch soldered onto the PCB, clearly labeled on the board itself.
The left side of the board also shows the integrated antenna pattern for Bluetooth connectivity, (ㄹlike this shape) while the central IC marked with the JL logo (which is very blurry) is the Jieli Bluetooth audio SoC that handles wireless communication and audio decoding.
Looking closer, I also noticed small labels like R##, C##, Q##, FB##, Y#, U#, MAKE # printed next to the components.
For reference, the labels like R, C, and U, which indicate resistors, capacitors, and integrated circuits.
R + number (e.g., R15, R2) → Resistor → Controls the flow of current. The number means “the 15th resistor,” for example.
C + number (e.g., C3, C14) → Capacitor → Stores and releases electrical charge, or stabilizes signals.
U + number (e.g., U2, U5) → IC (Integrated Circuit, chip) → A chip that performs a specific function. → For example, U5 is a small audio amplifier chip.
Q + number (e.g., Q1, Q24) → Transistor → Amplifies or switches electrical signals.
FB + number (e.g., FB2, FB3) → Ferrite Bead (noise filter) → Reduces electrical noise and interference in the signal.
Y + number (e.g., Y1) → Crystal Oscillator → Provides a precise frequency (clock) for the circuit.
MAKE1, MAKE4 → Test points or manufacturing marks used by the board manufacturer for production and quality checks.
Step 4-2) back side of the board
On the back side of the board, I found the LED that produced the flashing lights when the speaker was first powered on. There was also a marking HS-YDG-A37_V1.0 20240129, which appears to indicate the manufacturer and production date, along with Chinese labels for battery +/– and antenna.
At the top edge, the board carried both a USB port and a TF (microSD) card slot. By inserting a TF card, the speaker can play MP3 files stored on the card without using Bluetooth—a feature commonly found in portable Bluetooth speakers.
Step 5) On the back side, I separated the cylindrical battery from the casing. It was connected to the board, and a blue shrink wrap covered the cell. The battery label showed the specs: BJY 14500 500mAh 3.7V 1.85Wh 202412
Underneath it was a very heavy circular magnet attached for structural stability. The board was also connected to a component labeled MX 4Ω3W.
the glue wouldn’t come off easily, so I had to use a heat gun. Many parts had to be separated with considerable force because of how firmly they were glued or fixed in place.
Step 6) The board, the battery, and the MX 4Ω3W were all connected in this way. The battery was fixed in place with metal tape and stickers to ensure a stable current connection with the board.
Finally, I examined the speaker driver. At first glance, it looks like a heavy round magnet, but in fact this part is the core of the speaker. The label MX 4Ω3W indicates that it is a 4-ohm, 3-watt driver, a specification commonly found in small portable speakers.
The driver is made up of three main parts: the permanent magnet on the back, thevoice coil (a thin copper wire wound into a cylinder), and the diaphragm (the orange disc on the front). When current flows through the copper coil, it generates a magnetic field. This field interacts with the permanent magnet at the back, pushing and pulling the coil back and forth. Because the coil is attached to the diaphragm, the diaphragm vibrates with it, moving air and producing sound. [https://electronics.howstuffworks.com/speaker.htm]
So even though it looks like just a magnet from the outside, it actually contains the complete mechanism that transforms electrical signals into audible sound.
In summary
Number
Name
material
role
1
case
transparent plastic
outer case / cover
2
control panel
plastic with rubber
external button interface
3
strap
rubber
for portability
4
back cover
plastic with metal
5
screws (x8)
metal
tiny screws for top cover
6
LED cover (?)
plastic
7
black sponge stickers
cushioned sticker..?
secure the heavy speaker driver
8
MX 4Ω 3W
magnet + coil
speaker driver
9
main board HS–YDG–A37 V1.0 (20240129);
metal (includes JL SoC, amplifier, LED, USB, TF slot)
control all connections such as Bluetooth,LED, sounds and ports.
In arranging the parts, I tried to place everything back in its original position. While organizing, I realized I had skipped two process of photos : the black sponge stickers and the white plastic piece. The sponge stickers were attached to hold the heavy magnet unit firmly in place, and the white plastic served as a cover for the light that came from the LED on the back of the board.
In conclusion… Because the speaker was light and compact, its structure was not overly complicated, which made the teardown enjoyable. As someone who often listens to music, I hadn’t known that magnets play such a crucial role in speakers, so it was exciting to discover that. Even though it isn’t a high-power driver, I could see how the components were arranged efficiently to match its low-cost design. I tried to dismantle what looked like just a heavy magnet, but only managed to chip away at the edges, leaving me wishing I could have seen more of its inside.
Use a pry tool to remove the black plastic cover from the Dualsense controller.
2. Pry both the L1 and R1 shoulder buttons off.
3. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove two hidden screws under the shoulder buttons.
4. Remove two screws on the bottom of the left and right handles.
5. Use a prying tool to open the controller via the gap connecting the front and back covers.
6. Remove the back plate to reveal the battery and vibration mechanisms.
7. Using tweezers, remove the battery connection from the motherboard.
8. Remove the battery by lifting it up.
9. Remove the sole screw to remove the battery plate and access the motherboard.
10. Using tweezers, remove the microphone from the motherboard.
11. Remove all ribbon cables connected to the motherboard.
12. Carefully lift the motherboard off the controller without disconnecting the soldered cables.
13. Pull off both thumb stick buttons.
13. Peel off the plastic button cover and remove loose buttons from the D Pad, PS shape buttons, microphone mute button, share button, options button, and PS logo button.
15. Unscrew two screws below the L2 and R2 shoulder buttons.
16. Remove the clear light guide from the controller.
17. Remove four more screws on the side of the shoulder buttons.
18. Remove the front cover from the centerpiece.
19. Remove the side cover from the L2 and R2 shoulder buttons.
20. Pop off both trigger mechanisms without disconnecting from the soldered motherboard.
21. Using tweezers, pull off the rod holding the shoulder buttons to remove L2 and R2.
22. Unscrew the sole screw on the front faceplate to remove the touch pad button.
23. Final disassembled controller.
Identify the materials used for each component
Make a list of the tools and techniques you used to take it apart
Phillips Screwdriver (#00 or #1): Using the wrong type of screwdriver can strip the tiny screws.
Plastic Opening Tools (Pry or pick tools): For prying the plastic shell apart without causing damage.
Tweezers: To safely handle and disconnect the small ribbon cables.
Select two design elements that interest you and describe why you think the designer(s) made it that way
Sony has equipped the PS5 controller with dual rumble motors positioned within the handles. This design allows for the efficient transfer of vibrations to the center of the user’s hands, enhancing the speed and immersion of the sensory feedback.
Trigger mechanisms: The trigger is ergonomically shaped to fit the human hand, allowing for intuitive and easy operation by both left- and right-handed users. This design brings to mind the trigger mechanism of a gun.
Part Numbers on Chips
cxd90064gg – Processes inputs from the buttons, joysticks, and adaptive triggers, and manages the haptic feedback, speakers, and wireless communication with the PS5.
mXT144U – Allows touchpad to operate similar to how a touchscreen would.
Realtek ALC1016 – Handles headset jack support, microphone handling, and audio processing.
Realtek ALC5524 – Handles audio decoding, voice signal processing, and the audio for the 3.5mm headset jack.
Dialog DA9087 – Handles charging, power distribution, and regulation for the controller.
This refrigerator thermometer is a small, lightweight device with a white ABS plastic body and an LCD screen that shows the temperature. It has a simple look and will easily fit into any fridge or freezer, its compact design and the hook make it easy to place without taking up space.
The thermometer is made from ABS plastic (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), which is a durable and lightweight material commonly used for electronic housings. ABS is also a material that could handle cold temperatures in a fridge or a freezer.
The display is an LCD screen, and the device is battery-powered using a replaceable CR2032 battery.
Tools Used:
Small screwdrivers (checked out from the VFL)
Techniques Used
Unscrewing fastened screws
Carefully separating glued areas (battery)
Since everything inside was either screwed or lightly glued, the overall teardown process was straightforward and required minimal effort.
Material Breakdown by Component
Housing / Body: Made from ABS plastic (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), which is durable, lightweight, and impact-resistant.
Display (LCD): Glass layers with liquid crystal material sealed inside, plus a polarizing film.
Circuit Board (RTRT8891V.1): Made from a hard plastic base with thin copper lines to connect the parts and a protective coating on top.
Buttons: Likely made from silicone rubber (elastomer), giving them a soft, flexible, and slightly grippy texture.
Battery (CR2032): Constructed from a stainless steel casing, with internal lithium metal as the active material, and an electrolyte sealed inside.
Screws: Typically stainless steel or sometimes nickel-plated steel, chosen for corrosion resistance.
Manufacturing Techniques & Assembly
The digital thermometer is manufactured using several common techniques and equipment. The plastic housing is made through injection molding, where melted ABS plastic is poured into a mold to form the case. The circuit board is assembled using automatic machines that place the electronic components onto the board and then solder them in place with heat. The LCD screen and silicone buttons are produced separately and attached during assembly. Finally, the parts are put together using screws or glue, and the battery is inserted at the end. These methods allow the thermometer to be compact, durable, and cost-effective to produce.
Electronic Component Research
‘RTRT8891V.1’ Circuit Board
I wasn’t able to find any information about the chip labeled RTRT8891V.1, but it is probably responsible for managing both the temperature sensing and the data display logic. Combining these functions into a single chip likely simplifies the internal design, reducing the number of components needed internally. This saves space, lowers manufacturing costs, and allows the thermometer to remain compact.
‘CR2032’ Battery
A CR2032 battery is a small, round, 3-volt lithium coin cell commonly used in compact electronic devices like thermometers, calculators, watches, and key fobs. The “CR” stands for its lithium chemistry, the “20” indicates it is 20 millimeters in diameter, and the “32” means it is 3.2 millimeters thick. It’s lightweight, long-lasting, and easily replaceable, which makes it a practical choice for powering small, low-energy products like this digital fridge thermometer.
Design Decisions and Insights
Compact White ABS Plastic Body: The designers likely chose a small, clean, white casing so the thermometer blends easily into any fridge or freezer without being distracting. Its compact size also makes it easy to place without taking up much space.
Multiple Placement Options (Magnet, Hook, Stand): By including several ways to place the thermometer, the designers made it adaptable to different fridges, freezers, or counters.
Overview Before starting the teardown process, I needed to familiarize myself with the product. This was my first time seeing the Mighty Scope microscope in person, so I carefully observed its components to understand how it was assembled.
When I removed the transparent cap at the front of the microscope, I struggled to disassemble the other parts. To separate some of the tightly attached components, I used a heat gun.
Tools & Techniques
Screw driver
Heat guns
Hands
Unscrewing, pulling
Teardown Process
Detach the microscope from the stand.
Loosen the clamp and nuts on the stand by turning them counterclockwise to separate the microscope.
Unscrew and remove the transparent front cap of the microscope body.
Use a screwdriver to remove the bolts and detach the camera lens and aperture.
Unscrew and separate the additional LED panel.
To fully disassemble the body parts, apply heat with a heat gun to detach the glued joints, then separate the clickable button and circuit board.
Finally, disconnect the USB connector from the main circuit board inside the opened body parts.
Materials
Stand & Clamp Components
Knurled Thumb Screws: Steel threaded shaft with an ABS plastic head.
Steel Bolts: Steel bolts combined with external plastic parts.
Microscope Components
Lens: Glass or high-grade plastic.
Screws: Small steel screws, nickel-coated to prevent corrosion.
CMOS Sensor: Silicon-based semiconductor chip that captures light and converts it into digital signals.
LED Ring Light: LEDs with a plastic diffuser.
Main Circuit Board (PCB): Fiberglass (FR4) substrate with copper traces, housing the image processor, power management circuits, and USB interface.
Buttons, Dials, and Switches: Plastic caps with embedded metal contacts; side capture button for image recording and top dial for focus/magnification control.
Cable: USB cable with copper wiring for both power supply and data transmission, shielded with plastic insulation.
Housing/Clips: Outer body and internal mounts made of ABS.
Button Circuit
When you press the button, it connects ground to the signal line.
Interesting Design Parts
The integration of the camera’s digital zoom with the microscope’s optical magnification creates a distinctive and innovative design feature.
The light switch is designed to be highly intuitive and user-friendly, enabling even first-time users to operate the product with ease and efficiency.
Struggles / Takeaways
Except for the front cap, most of the body parts were bonded with strong adhesive, which made disassembly difficult.
The lubricant used to allow the parts to move smoothly made my hands and clothes dirty, but it helped me understand the mechanism behind how the components rotate smoothly.
Step 1: I began by removing the watch straps from the body of the LG watch. To do this I used the dull back end of the exacto knife, pincing the strap prongs inwards until they released from their housings and the straps were free to e removed.
Step 2: Placing the watch on its face (screen side down) I removed each of the 4 screws holding the casing together with a T5 hex screwdriver. From here I pried the back off again using the exacto knife to work my way under the casing.
Step 3: After removing the back casing to reveal the internals of the watch I proceeded to remove the rubber gasket which created a hermetic seal within the watch body.
Step 4: In order to dissasmble the watch further I removed the 1.5mm screws which pinned the battery retaining clip to the back face of the watch and the LCD screen + motherboard to the front of the watch. Its worth noting here that these two little screws in the front keep both the screen and mother board secured within the casing.
Step 5: Upon removing the screws I was able to lift off the battery retaining clip and the L-ion battery from the back. The battery was glued to the back of the watch casing which makes sense as you do not want to pierce the battery with any sharp objects.
Step 6: In order to remove the screen from the front of the watchface I removed the pin connectors which power the screen and convey touch responsiveness. This plus a generous amount of heat and prying with the exacto blade made it possible to lift the screen from the casing as well as the motherboard. The screen was also secured with a glack silicon glue in order to keep the watch sealed from water and debrie.
One of the most interesting parts to me of the device is the little rectangle marked in green. This is the InvenSense INMP441 micrphone. I was surprised to see that the mic is sodered directly to the PCB board removing the need for additional wires or fastening. While this is standard procedure — and I assume also reduces rattling for the microphone to pick up clear sound — I was surprised that the microphone would be able to pick up soundwaves from so far within the water sealed casing.
Beyond the electronic mechanisms of the device I was also very interested in the shape and silhouette of retainer clasp that houses the battery. The reason for this interesting shape, beyond the fact that this retainer is used practically to retain the battery within its casing, appears when you put the front and back case side by side, like below.
Here you can see the resemblance between the negative space formed by the retainer clip and the shapology of the components on the PCB on the right — including the cutaways for the housing for the Snapdragon processor and the mysterious 2407 DSH 12EDF (highlighted previously with a blue line on the PCB image) ; which has no documented explanation for its use on the ifixt teardown site or online forums.
Tools Used
Shout out to all the tools used in the teardown of this lovely bygone smartwatch — whether they were used for their intended purpose or not they all helped out on a big way and I am grateful. The backwards mounted exacto blade was just what I needed to get under that finicky little LCD Screen and the Electron Tweezers really made me feel I was a rocket scientist splicing the atom.
Step1:Take out the battery and bottom plastic cover
1.Use a coin to rotate the battery in 90 degrees clockwise and lift up out of the computer.
2.Use flathead screw driver remove the soft pads.
3.Use phillips screw driver unscrew the three bottom socket parts.
4.Use hex driver(T8 Torx ) unscrew the three parts on the bottom center.
5.Flip the computer into front side and remove the two Phillips screws on the right side of the battery .
6.Squiz in the battery part edge and release all the slot around the whole computer. Continue to use the flathead screw driver seperate along the cover.
Step2:Take out Top plastic cover , Airport Card, Keyboard, and Top metal cover
1.Unscrew the center part with small flathead screw driver in 180 degreses.
2Pull the keyboard tabs on the both top sides inwards and lift up.
3.Push the wire clasp away from one side of the Airport card, and take out from the RAM shield.
4.Remove the three identical 3-mm long screws from the Y-shaped bracket that fits over the AirPort Extreme/Bluetooth card. Remove the two identical 3-mm long screws from the AirPort Extreme/Bluetooth card. Pull the transparent tab and take Airport card out. Hold tight the Airport card and remove the antenna cable.
5.Remove the four phillips screws on the RAM Shield.
6. Remove theRAM shield and pull out the keyboard connector.
7.Holding the card at the corner and pull out from memory slot.
8.Remove the top plastice cover.
One 3.5-mm long Phillips screw at lower left corner
Two identical 4.5-mm long Phillips screws
9.Use phillips screw driver carefully remove the top metal cover.
Two 4.5-mm long screw
Fourteen 3-mm long screws
10.Lift up the upper cover metal cover and unplug the blue and white cable. Also, unplug the colourful speaker cable.
11.Unplug all the connector from the logic board and remove all the taps.
Step3:Remove the bottome metal shield and take out parts
1.Flip over the computer and remove the following screws:
Three 4.5-mm long screws with beveled heads at optical drive slot-load area
Three 3.5-mm long screws
Four 14.5-mm long screws
One 12-mm long screw
2.Lift up the bottom metal shield carefully.
Step4:Remove DC-in board
3.Remove any tape along the logic board, and unplug all the connectors.
4.Remove the 3mm phillips screw from the DC-in board.
5.Remove two7.5mm phillips screws which lock the battery at the bottom left edge.
6.Disconnect the battery transfer board from the logic board.
7.Remove the four 3.5mm phillips screws which secure the fan on top.
8.Disconnect the fan cable from the logic board.
9.Remove any tape which on the board.
Step5:Remove Sleep light Board
1.Peel up any tape that may hold the cable in place. Disconnect the cable that attaches the sleep light board to the logic board.
2.Turn over the computer and remove the 4.5-mm long screw from the sleep light holder and frame.
Step6:Remove Display Latch
1.Using your fingernail, tilt up the brown hinged locking connector and slide out the trackpad cable.
2.Holding the top case steady, press the latch button in and under the lip of the top case.
Step7:Remove I/O Bezel
1.With the computer on a soft cloth, remove the two screws from the I/O bezel and frame:
3-mm long screw at longer tab
2-mm long screw at shorter tab
Step8:Remove RJ11 Modem Cable
1.lift up the modem sleeve and disconnect the RJ11 modem cable from the modem board.
2.slide the modem port forward and off of the logic board.
Step9:Disassemble Vent Cover, Heat Sink, and Logic Board.
1.Remove the vent cover from the computer assembly
2.With the computer assembly on a soft cloth, remove the following from the heatsink:
Two 6-mm long Phillips screws
Two 7-mm long hex nuts with captive springs
One 4.5-mm long Phillips screw
Three 3-mm long Phillips screws
3.Carefully lift up the heat sink.
4.With the computer on a soft cloth, disconnect the following cables:
reed switch cable
optical drive cable
5.Turn over the frame, and peel up any tape that covers the logic board.
Disconnect the sleep light cable and the fan cable
6.Turn over the frame, and remove the following from the logic board:
Two 6-mm long screws
One 3.5-mm long screw
Eight 4.5-mm long screws
Step10:Remove Hard Drive
1.Remove the six identical 4.5-mm long screws:
two from the holder over the hard drive connector
four from the hard drive brackets
2.Lift off the holder from the hard drive connector.
3.Carefully lossen the connector.
4.Using a Torx T8 screwdriver, remove the four identical, black, 7-mm long screws from the sides of the drive.
Step11:Remove Reed Swich Board
1.. Disconnect the connector from the logic board. Peel up or loosen the tape from the optical drive and frame.
Step12:Remove Optical Drive
1.Remove the following from the optical drive:
3-mm long screw at upper left corner of drive
6-mm long screw at upper right corner of drive
6-mm long screw at lower left corner of drive
2.Remove the two identical 3-mm long screws that hold the bracket to the optical drive.
3.Remove the 4.5-mm long screws that hold the mounting bracket to the optical drive.
4. Press and pull off the bezel from the drive.
Step13:Disassemble Display Module
1.Starting at the microphone cable connector, carefully pull up on the cable to remove it from the computer assembly.
2.While supporting the display, turn over the computer, and disconnect the invertercable from bottom of the logic board.
3.Remove the two phillips screw on display hinge.
4.Starting at a corner of the display, use a black stick to pry up the bezel from the display housing
5.Peel up the long strip of white tape where it covers the clutch cover screw on the right.
6.Near the right and left sides of the clutch, remove the two 12-mm long screws that secure the clutch cover to the hinge assembly.
7.Tilt up the display assembly and pull straight down on the display clutch cover to remove the clutch cover from the display assembly
8.Notice the U-shaped notches on the sides of the bezel. Remove the four 3.5-mm long Phillips screws (two on each side) from the display shield. (Move aside any cables or tape that partially block access to the screws.)
First part which interested me is the battery design, comparing with present sealed battery. One of the most notable design choices in the iBook G4 was its battery. Apple created “coin lock”, removable unit that blended into the curved base. This decision was both practical and aesthetic. At a time when mobile use often exceeded a single charge, users could easily replace the battery without tools. Instead of keepping the high capacity battery inside with all the boards and components, this design would avoid hurting other crucial parts when the battery was damaged.
Another important feature was the keyboard. The iBook G4 used a full-sized layout with wider spacing and a large palm rest which integrated with authentic ergnomic considers. For the similar reason that this keyboard was also design as easyily replacable tool. No need to fix it in a complex way, it could easily operate by our own. Thus, these are the two components that interested me the most.
Material:Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)/Teflon plastic Function:Allows the mouse to glide smoothly with minimal friction on surfaces, keeps the mouse elevated from the surface. Manufacturing techniques: High-precision die-cutting, CNC milling or solid machining.
2. Manufacturing sticker
Material: BOPP (Biaxially-Oriented Polypropylene) plastic Function: To help provide key information about the product. Manufacturing techniques: Heating and stretching molten polypropylene in two directions, followed by a surface flame treatment. Text printed using methods like flexography or rotogravure, adhesive application and cutting material into rolls.
3. Anti-slip mouse skates
Material:Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)/Teflon plastic Function:Allows the mouse to glide smoothly on surfaces, keeps the mouse elevated from the surface, and minimizes friction created between the surfaces. Manufacturing techniques: High-precision die-cutting, CNC milling or solid machining.
4. Mouse shell top
Material:ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) plastic Function:Provides protection, ergonomics, and structural support for the internal components. Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding. The logo is then printed on shell using methods of pad printing or UV printing.
5. USB-C adapter port
Material:Nickel coated shell, Polyamide plastic housing Function:Allows for charging the internal battery or connecting the mouse via a USB-C receiver/dongle. Manufacturing techniques: Stamping and plating of shell, injection molding of the plastic housing.
6. USB-A receiver housing shell
Material:ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) plastic Function:Helps connect the mouse to the computer by converting radio frequency signals into signals that can be understood by the computer. Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding.
7. USB-A receiver housing cap
Material:ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) plastic Function:Helps enclose the components of the receiver within the housing. Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding.
8. USB-A receiverEMI/EMF shielding
Material:Aluminum Function:Prevents external interference from entering and prevents internal noise from escaping. Manufacturing techniques: Stamping of metal sheet.
9. USB-A System on a Chip (SoC)
Material:Silicon, aluminum and copper Function:Creating a single integrated circuit to help transmit and receive data that allows the mouse to function. Manufacturing techniques: Wafer production, photolithography, etching, ion implantation, deposition, planarization, and metallization.
10. Mouse shell middle
Material:ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) Function:Provides structural support and housing for the internal components. Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding.
11. Mouse shell bottom
Material:ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) Function:Provides structural support and housing for the internal components. Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding.
12. Battery coil negative terminal
Material:Nickel-coated music wire/Stainless steel Function:Aid the electrical connection of the mouse, while providing mechanical support to the battery. Manufacturing techniques: Coiling, heat treatment, grinding, finishing and plating.
13. Battery coil positive terminal
Material:Nickel-coated music wire/Stainless steel Function:Aid the electrical connection of the mouse, while providing mechanical support to the battery. Manufacturing techniques: Coiling, heat treatment, grinding, finishing and plating.
14. Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Material:Fiberglass (FR-4), Copper Function:Translates user movements and clicks into digital signals that can be understood by the computer. Manufacturing techniques: Software design, substrate preparation, fabrication and etching.
15. Micro switch Type A
Material:Polycarbonate (PC), Polyphenylene Terephthalate (PBT), or nylon for the housing, Metal contacts Function:Provide tactile feedback, ensure responsiveness and functionality of the mouse. Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding, stamping, shaping, forming.
16. Micro switch Type B
Material:Polycarbonate (PC)/Polyphenylene Terephthalate (PBT) Function:Provide tactile feedback, ensure responsiveness and functionality of the mouse. Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding.
17. Micro switch Type C
Material:Polycarbonate (PC)/Polyphenylene Terephthalate (PBT) Function:Provide tactile feedback, ensure responsiveness and functionality of the mouse. Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding.
18. Optical mouse sensor
Material: A tiny camera (CMOS sensor), semiconductor substrate, plastics, and various metals Function:Illuminates the surface beneath the mouse, capturing a series of images of the surface’s texture with a tiny camera sensor. Manufacturing techniques: Semiconductor fabrication techniques.
19. LED Light
Material: Aluminium gallium indium phosphide alloys and indium gallium nitride alloys Function:Detect the changes beneath the mouse, and to track the movement of the cursor. Manufacturing techniques: Semiconductor wafer creation, chip formation, etching and coating.
20. Toggle switch housing
Material:ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) Function:Houses the actuator that helps control the mouse circuit. Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding.
21. Toggle switch actuator
Material:ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) Function: Allows the mouse to manually be switched on and off. Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding.
22. M1.6 screw
Material:Carbon steel/Stainless steel/Alloy steel Function: Holds the bottom mouse shell and middle mouse shell together. Manufacturing techniques: Straightening, cold heading and thread rolling.
23. F-Switch component encasing
Material: Aluminum Function: Helps complete the circuit of the mouse. Manufacturing techniques: Die-cutting, stamping.
24. F-Switch component housing
Material:ABS/Other polymer blends Function:Houses the internal components of the F-Switch to complete the circuit. Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding.
25. F-Switch component contact
Material:Gold/silver-plated metal Function:Prevent oxidation and ensure good electrical conduction. Manufacturing techniques: Die-cutting, stamping.
Material:ABS/Polycarbonate Function:Aids the functionality of the mouse. Manufacturing techniques: Injection molding or insert molding.
28. AA Battery
Material: Zinc and manganese dioxide mixture, with a potassium hydroxide electrolyte, enclosed in a steel casing Function: Power source for the mouse. Manufacturing techniques: Assembling an outer steel can, which serves as the positive cathode, and filling it with the cell’s internal components in a highly automated process.
29. Tool used – Small Phillips Head Screwdriver
30. Tool used – Small Flat Head Screwdriver
31.Tool used – Tweezers
Teardown Process
Step 1: Remove mouse skates and stickers using tweezers and a small flathead screwdriver.
Step 2: Remove USB receiver from the mouse shell bottom.
Step 3: Separate the top and middle mouse shell.
Step 4: Unscrew the middle shell from the bottom mouse shell using a small Phillips head screwdriver.
Step 5: Keep all 3 shells separately so as to view the circuit in the bottom mouse shell.
Step 6: Remove the AA battery from the bottom mouse shell.
Step 7: Remove the scroll wheel from the bottom mouse shell.
Step 8: Remove the PCB, toggle switch housing and actuator from the bottom mouse shell.
Step 9: Remove the USB-C port from the slot in the bottom mouse shell.
Step 10: Remove the type A micro switches from the PCB.
Step 11: Remove the positive and negative terminals of the battery coil from the PCB.
Step 12: Remove the type B micro switches from the PCB.
Step 13: Carefully separate the optical mouse sensor from the PCB.
Step 14: Carefully remove and separate the components of the F-switch.
Step 15: Detach the LED light from the PCB.
Step 16: Take out the USB-A receiver and separate the shielding from the housing.
Step 17: Open the shielding to expose and remove the SoC.
Step 18: As the last step of the teardown, separate the pieces of the USB-A receiver.
Notable design elements
The USB-A receiver housing was quite interesting to me as the slotting mechanism at the bottom of the housing not only made it easy to disassemble the part, but also must’ve eased assembly of the receiver. The sleekness of the cap was ergonomically great to open the piece using just an index finger and thumb. Lastly, the ridges on the bottom of the housing acted as a good grip as well for easy removal from the USB port.
The overall transparency of the mouse shells evoked a lot of curiosity for me personally, since I was able to see all the components at once. The composition that all the parts created together also gave me a sense of engagement with the product. Lastly, the transparency of the mouse shells also helped see the internal working of the mouse.
