Gudrun’s Final Project: The Moon Cycle Lamp

This was one of the most challenging projects I have done yet!

The Moon Phase Lamp Video

Link to My Instructables Project

Link to the Instructable Preview

The Idea

I wanted to make a moon cycle lamp that shows you the cycle/phase of the current moon.

How it works

A light is placed in the middle of the box and a dome spins around it casting a shadow on the moon. This allows you to see the current cycle of the motor.

The Process

The Box

I built a wooden box in the VFL, it was quite challenging because I wanted the box to be seamless and had to miter the edges to achieve that look.

3D Printing

I designed and 3d printed the domes, both the outer dome, which is the moon, and the inner dome that casts the shadow.

I had to design the inner dome a few times because of balance issues.

The Circuit

I have a stepper motor, a motor breakout board, an Arduino Nano, an LED light, and a 100-ohm resistor. I soldered the Arduino nano and the motor breakout board to the “solderable” breadboard and soldered wires to connect everything together.

The Code

I had a really hard time coding this.

I researched a lot about the moon phases and even tried to create a function that calculates the moon. In the end, I downloaded a library in Arduino called “Moonphase” by Cellie. Then I used an example from their GitHub.

Then I researched how to make a stepper motor move and created a function to make the motor move from The Arduino Website.

Currently, the motor moves, but the moon phase location is not working as I want.

#include <WiFi.h>
#include <moonPhase.h>
#include <Wire.h>
#include <RTClib.h>

const char * wifissid = "WiFi Name";
const char * wifipsk  = "Password";

moonPhase moonPhase;
RTC_DS1307 RTC;

struct tm timeinfo = {0};

// Define motor pins
#define A_OUT_1 9
#define A_OUT_2 10
#define B_OUT_1 11
#define B_OUT_2 12

// Define the delay between steps in milliseconds
const int STEP_DELAY = 100; // Adjust for speed
int stepsMoved = 0;

// Define the step sequence for a bipolar stepper motor
const int stepSequence[4][4] = {
  {HIGH, LOW, HIGH, LOW},  // Step 1
  {LOW, HIGH, HIGH, LOW},  // Step 2
  {LOW, HIGH, LOW, HIGH},  // Step 3
  {HIGH, LOW, LOW, HIGH}   // Step 4
};


void setup() {
  pinMode(2, OUTPUT);
  // put your setup code here, to run once:
    Wire.begin();

  // Set motor pins as outputs
  pinMode(A_OUT_1, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(A_OUT_2, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(B_OUT_1, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(B_OUT_2, OUTPUT);

  //Moon Angle
  //Serial.begin(115200);
  //Serial.println();
  //Serial.println();
  //Serial.println( "moonPhase esp32-sntp example." );
  //Serial.print( "Connecting to " );
  //Serial.println( wifissid );
  //WiFi.begin( wifissid, wifipsk );
  //while ( !WiFi.isConnected() )
  //  delay(100);
  //Serial.println();

  //Serial.println( "Connected. Getting time..." );
  //configTzTime( "CET-1CEST-2,M3.5.0/02:00:00,M10.5.0/03:00:00", "0.pool.ntp.org" ); // Timezone: Amsterdam, Netherlands

  //while ( !getLocalTime( &timeinfo, 0 ) )
  //  vTaskDelay( 10 / portTICK_PERIOD_MS );
}

void loop() {
  //getLocalTime( &timeinfo );
  //Serial.print( asctime( &timeinfo ) );
  digitalWrite(2, HIGH);
  stepsMoved = moveSteps(20);

  moonData_t moon = moonPhase.getPhase();

  Serial.print( "Moon phase angle: " );
  Serial.print( moon.angle );                       // angle is a integer between 0-360
  Serial.print( " degrees. Moon surface lit: " );
  Serial.printf( "%f%%\n", moon.percentLit * 100 ); // percentLit is a real between 0-1
  Serial.println();
  delay(30000);
}

// Function to move the motor a specific number of steps
int moveSteps(int steps) {
  int stepCount = abs(steps);          // Get the absolute number of steps
  int direction = (steps > 0) ? 1 : -1; // Determine direction (1 = forward, -1 = backward)

  int currentStep = 0; // Track current step in the sequence

  for (int i = 0; i < stepCount; i++) {
    // Calculate the next step index
    currentStep = (currentStep + direction + 4) % 4;

    // Set the motor coils according to the step sequence
    digitalWrite(A_OUT_1, stepSequence[currentStep][0]);
    digitalWrite(A_OUT_2, stepSequence[currentStep][1]);
    digitalWrite(B_OUT_1, stepSequence[currentStep][2]);
    digitalWrite(B_OUT_2, stepSequence[currentStep][3]);

    // Delay to control the speed
    delay(STEP_DELAY);
  }

  // Turn off all coils after motion
  releaseMotor();
  return stepCount; // Return the number of steps moved
}

// Function to release the motor (turn off all coils)
void releaseMotor() {
  digitalWrite(A_OUT_1, LOW);
  digitalWrite(A_OUT_2, LOW);
  digitalWrite(B_OUT_1, LOW);
  digitalWrite(B_OUT_2, LOW);
}

//Moving the Motor in phase with the real moon
// Function that changes position from % to step location f.e. 180° = 100 steps
  // Function (angle) --> (position)
  

// For Loop that moves the motor
  // position = 0;
  // newPosition = 0;
  // for ...
    // if newPosition == position - 1
    // move motor (1)
    // position = newPosition
//

Link to the Google Doc draft tutorial

Link to the Google Doc

Future Constructions

There are many things that I need to fix and do differently in the future.

  • I need to fix the moon angle code so it works properly
  • Change the blue LED to a white LED light
  • Switch out the current motor for a quieter one

Gudrun’s Final Project Proposals

Temperature/Weather Lamp

I want my lamp to turn colors after the temperature outside and maybe add some weather features.

Moon Lamp

I want the lamp to be in sync with the moon’s cycle. When the moon is full, the whole lamp glows, when the moon is half, the lamp lights half. I want that to be a wall lamp so it’s more clearer.

JellyFish Lamp

This lamp has small motors that makes the jellyfish look like it’s floating in the air. I got the inspiration from the link below:

Gudrun’s Halloween Costume

I am making “Appa” the character as a coat. I want my costume to be cozy and comfortable and I kind of want to project that feeling to others through my costume.

The Idea

Instead of the arrow and the other details on it’s back being dark brown, I want them to light up.

I also want the details to light up in a kind of “ombre” way. I’m not sure how to explain it but look under settings (3).

Arduino Techniques

For the Arduino techniques I want to have 3 light settings:

  1. Light turned off
  2. Light turned on
  3. Ombre Light (Only white)

For light setting 3, I need to find a way to make them blink in a row, I know this is possible because the NeoPixel LED stick did that in the last Arduino Exercise.

I want to have a button in the hood or in the sleeve that allows me to change the light setting. I only want to have one button so I’m thinking of having it that if I press it once it turns on and if I press it again it goes ombre and if I press it then again it turns off.

Circuit diagram

Materials

  • White/Cream Faux Fur (similar to Faux Fur from Mood Fabrics)
  • Black Rib Knit from Mood Fabrics
  • Adafruit Gemma M0
  • Button
  • Wire (To connect button to led lights)
  • RGB Light Strip 47 inches (back) + 40 inches hoodie + 5*6 inches for detail + some inches for arrow RGB LED Strip
  • A hoodie that I like the form of so I can use it as a pattern Hoodie from Aritzia (used this one)
  • Charging Bank
  • Tools: Scissors, Pen, Soldering Device, Solder, needle, thread, sewing machine.

Progress

I started tracing a hoodie that I liked the shape of.

Next I traced the shapes to the faux fur fabric.

I didn’t have enough fabric so I had to make one sleeve out of 2 parts instead of one, but it turned out alright.

I pinned my pieces and sewed them together. The most challenging stuff was sewing the sleeves to the body😅. I also added the ribbed jersey material to the bottom of the jacket. That made the jacket look really nice and fitted.

I ran out of the ribbed material, so I had to head to the fabric store to buy more. I also bought a zipper, but when I examined it closer, I found out that I couldn’t zip it all the way down :/

I sewed the ripped material to the sleeves, I had to do it twice because the first time I sewed it, I turned it the wrong way.

LED lightning

I was kind of unsure how to make the arrow so I had to draw them up a few times. I ended on choosing this design.

This diagram shows the LED lights (green) and it’s connections.

I drew the circuit in Tinkercad to check if it worked and got confirmation from Becky.

Link to TinkerCad Circuit

I’m not gonna lie, this was very challenging for me because I wasn’t sure what the best way was to make these connections.

I started setting up my lights and then I tried connecting the wires to them. My soldering wasn’t the best so I had to redo it because the wires were to close to each other.

I decided to try another method where I make a “Y” out of the wire. This minimizes the risk of the wires connecting. That did not go so well so I tried a new method.

I taped down the LED lights to my desired shape with electric tape. After that, I soldered together 3 wires and connected them to the LED lights. This ended up working very well and I put electric tape over my connections to make them extra stable.

I soldered my arrow to a long strip and to the Gemma M0. Before I added the button I checked if my LED strip worked which it did!

I soldered the button to long wires soldered to the Gemma M0. When I finished soldering all the parts I secured the connections with electric tape and sewed the lights to the coat.

I found out that the button wasn’t working because I connected it wrong. The right way to connect it is diagonally. When I fixed that everything started to work.

Coding

Getting the code to work

I started by using the code from our past assignments and changed it a bit. I first noticed that the code wasn’t properly working for my LED lights. The problem was that the LED lights only read GRB values but not the RGBW. I’m not sure why that was but when I changed it to NEO_GRB the lights worked flawlessly.

Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(NUM_LEDS, PIN, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);
Creating the functions for my light show

The second thing I changed was the rainbowOverWhite class. I wanted it to be black over white. So I made a new function called “blackOverWhite” where the color black is (0,0,0) and white is (255, 255, 255).

void blackOverWhite(uint8_t wait, uint8_t whiteSpeed, uint8_t whiteLength ) {
  
  if(whiteLength >= strip.numPixels()) whiteLength = strip.numPixels() - 1;

  int head = whiteLength - 1;
  int tail = 0;

  int loops = 3;
  int loopNum = 0;

  static unsigned long lastTime = 0;


  while(true){
    for(int j=0; j<256; j++) {
      for(uint16_t i=0; i<strip.numPixels(); i++) {
        if((i >= tail && i <= head) || (tail > head && i >= tail) || (tail > head && i <= head) ){
          strip.setPixelColor(i, strip.Color(0, 0, 0 ) );
        }
        else{
          strip.setPixelColor(i, strip.Color(255, 255, 255 ) );
        }
        
      }

      if(millis() - lastTime > whiteSpeed) {
        head++;
        tail++;
        if(head == strip.numPixels()){
          loopNum++;
        }
        lastTime = millis();
      }

      if(loopNum == loops) return;
    
      head%=strip.numPixels();
      tail%=strip.numPixels();
        strip.show();
        delay(wait);
    }
  }
  
}
Coding the button

First I had to tell Arduino that my button was connected to pin 2. I did that by writing:

#define BUTTON 2

Next, I had to define what state the button was in because I wanted the button to change after what state it was in. Then I had to define what the last state of the button was, which is High. The button has 2 states, high and low, which kind of means on and off. Next, I defined the counter because I want the counter to go up if the button is pressed. Then I had to apply debounce so it switches when only the button is pressed. Here are the 2 websites I used to help me code the button. https://docs.arduino.cc/built-in-examples/digital/Debounce/, https://docs.arduino.cc/built-in-examples/digital/Button/.

  // Check if button state has changed and apply debounce
  if (reading == LOW && lastButtonState == HIGH && (millis() - time) > debounce) {
    counter++; // Increment counter to change LED mode
    time = millis(); // Update last debounce time
  }

This is checking if the button has been pressed and it is not a mistake (removing noise) Read about Debouncing.

Here is my full code.

#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>

#define PIN 1
#define NUM_LEDS 53
#define BRIGHTNESS 50
#define BUTTON 2 // Button connected to pin 2

int buttonState = 0; // Current button state
int lastButtonState = HIGH; // Previous button state
int counter = 0;

long time = 0; // The Debounce time
long debounce = 200; // Debounce delay in milliseconds

Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(NUM_LEDS, PIN, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);

void setup() {
  strip.setBrightness(BRIGHTNESS);
  strip.begin();
  strip.show();
  pinMode(BUTTON, INPUT_PULLUP);
}

void loop() {
  // What state the Button is in (HIGH or LOW)/(ON or OFF)
  int reading = digitalRead(BUTTON);

  // Check if button state has changed and apply debounce
  if (reading == LOW && lastButtonState == HIGH && (millis() - time) > debounce) {
    counter++; // The counter changes
    time = millis(); // Update last debounce time
  }

  lastButtonState = reading;

  // Cycle through LED modes based on counter
  if (counter == 0) {
    colorWipe(strip.Color(255, 255, 255), 50); // White
  } else if (counter == 1) {
    blackOverWhite(20, 70, 5);
  } else if (counter == 2) {
    colorWipe(strip.Color(0, 0, 0), 50); // Off
  } else {
    counter = 0; // Reset counter to cycle through modes
  }
}

// Fill the LEDs one after the other with a specified color
void colorWipe(uint32_t c, uint8_t wait) {
  for (uint16_t i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i++) {
    strip.setPixelColor(i, c);
    strip.show();
    delay(wait);
  }
}

// Non-blocking version of blackOverWhite animation
void blackOverWhite(uint8_t wait, uint8_t whiteSpeed, uint8_t whiteLength) {
  static int head = 0;
  static int tail = -whiteLength;
  static int loopNum = 0;
  static unsigned long lastTime = 0;

  if (whiteLength >= strip.numPixels()) whiteLength = strip.numPixels() - 1;

  // Only update the animation if enough time has passed
  if (millis() - lastTime > whiteSpeed) {
    for (uint16_t i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i++) {
      if ((i >= tail && i <= head) || (tail > head && i >= tail) || (tail > head && i <= head)) {
        strip.setPixelColor(i, strip.Color(255, 255, 255)); // White
      } else {
        strip.setPixelColor(i, strip.Color(50, 50, 50)); // Dim white
      }
    }

    head++;
    tail++;
    if (head == strip.numPixels()) {
      head = 0;
      tail = -whiteLength;
      loopNum++;
    }

    if (loopNum >= 3) {
      loopNum = 0;
      return;
    }

    lastTime = millis();
    strip.show();
    delay(wait);
  }
}

Final Thoughts

I’m very happy with the outcome, however I wish to sew a zipper to the costume. If I had extra time I would sew material inside of the coat so the you can’t feel the LED strip. I was kind of stressed about ripping the wiring.

Gudrun’s Halloween Costume Ideas

Glowing Mermaid

I was thinking of sewing 3D-printed shells to the top and having light underneath them. For the pants, I want to sew long strips of different colors to the pants or sew white strips and have LED lights on the strip.

Glowing Sparkling Fur Outfit

I wanted to use my leftover fabric to make this kind of glowy sparkly fur outfit. I would really want to make the boots and the purse, but I’m not sure if I have the sewing skills to make the coat.

Glowing Mummy

This is my most “Halloweenish” idea, but basically, it is a mummy that glows yellow/orange. I want to use linen and have lighting strips underneath it.

The NeoPixel

I tried to do the Neopixel exercise and it failed, however I know what I did wrong.

My wiring was wrong, I basically turned the NeoPixel wrong which meant I was shorting out my circuit.

Down below is a video of my NeoPixel working after I fixed the connections.

Gudrun’s Ram Plush Light

Here is my completed Ram Plush Light. I’m so happy with the outcome!

I did this ram to have an item that reminds of Iceland. I wanted it to look good be an aesthetic item in your house. I wanted it to be clean and minimalistic. My target users are people that just moved to the city from a small town. I wanted to embody the feeling of warmness when the ram’s body lights up.

Materials

  • Faux Fur
  • Vinyl
  • Zipper
  • Stuffing
  • Velcro
  • 3D filament
  • 4 LED lights
  • Battery Pack
  • Electric wire
  • Needle and thread
  • Sewing Machine
  • Soldering Equipment
  • Brown paper
  • Pen
  • Scissors

Journey

My biggest challenge for this project was doing the head. I have never sewn a head before and I had to do a lot of research to learn how to make one. I tried finding similar plushes to see how they did the head and it just came out a bit weird.

I have never attached a 3d printed item to a soft material and I found out that there were many ways to do it. I decided to use velcro for this project.

If I would do this again I would probably sew the horns to the rams head, I would also change the horns to a more neutral cream brown color. I would also make the feet a bit larger (make the cylinders wider). Lastly I would sew a bit more heads to get the perfect shape.

Process

I started sketching out shapes of brown paper, cut them out, and traced them to the fabric making sure there was a bit of seam allowence. Then I hand sewed them together.

I did the body 2 times because when I sewed the feet to the stomach it was kind of akward so I redid the stomach shape and handsewed it together again. I wanted to have a zipper because I wanted to be able to switch out batteries easily.

To do the feet I cut out 4 circles and 4 rectangles and sewed the rectangle and circle together to make cylinders.

I did the head 3 times because I was never happy with it. First it was a very akward shape and the second one was too round and big. For the third one I cut out egg shaped brown paper and glued them together to see if the shape makes sense. The third one turned out perfect!

I 3d printed horns from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2992251 , I resized it down to 70%. I bought Velcro and cut out circles to attach them to the head.

Lastly filled the head and body with stuffing and sewed the the head to the body.

I soldered 4 LED lights and attached ping pong balls to the lights for a more distributed lighting.

Thank you for reading!

Gudrun’s Plush Night Light Proposal

Brainstorming

I want to make kind of a minimal plush night light, something that can stand on a shelf or on a night table.

Ram/Aries Plush Light

When I started to sketch out the ram I wanted the horns to glow but as I was thinking more about it I wanted the wool to glow kind of like in the movie “Tangled”. Then I thought about the Aries in the star signs and they are kind of magical and I can imagine that their wool would glow.

I want the face and feet to be made out of leather and the body to be made out of wool or some kind of furry material. I want the horns to be made out of some kind of stiff material like a white leathery hard material but I think it would be kind of cool to 3d print the horns.

Angler Fish Plush Light

I really enjoyed sketching these fish plush lights. I googled what an angler fish would look like and they’re kind of ugly and scary looking. I did not want the light to be scary-looking so I made the fish more cartoonish. I also wanted the fish to look tired because it is a night light. I want to make the light bulb on the fish glow but I thought it would maybe be cool to have his lower jaw glow as well. I drew a few of them to explore the color combinations.

I want the body to be made out of some leather/vinyl but the jaw to be made out of more of a sheer material. I would probably use a wire to hold the fish part that holds the light in place or to keep it steady.

Rhino Plush Light

I wanted to go for kind of a minimal rhino that had simple shapes. I think the most cool thing about rhinos are their horns so I wanted them to glow.

I want the the whole body to be made out of leather/vinyl and the horns to be made out of a more sheer material.

Prototyping

This is the prototype of the plush I sewed. Sewing this plush taught me how to do a backstitch and how to close the plush with a ladder stitch. I also started with this pattern and it kind of changed drastically because I wanted it to have arms and feet.

Then I have the prototype of the LED light. This taught me how to make successful connections and how to secure them.

Before I soldered the connections, I put plastic tubes on the wires and shortened the wire on the capacitor. I made this connection by connecting the longer wire of the LED light (the positive) to the capacitor via soldering. Then I soldered the the negative side of the LED light to the black wire of the battery pack and the other side of the capacitor to the red wire. When I finished the connections I heated the plastic tubes with a heat gun to make them shrink and stabilize the connections.

Fabric Choices and Materials

I really wanted to do the ram so I headed to the fabric store to see if my LED light would shine through the fabric.

The LED light surprisingly shined through the fur fabric. I think that I will need a few LED lights so the ram’s full body shines.

I picked out a vinyl material for the head and feet.

I want to 3d print the horns so I will probably use Rhino to design the horns and print them out at the VFL Lab.

Other Materials

I will need fiber fill to fill the ram, however, I want the ram to be a bit heavy so I might need to look into other filling materials such as microbeads. I might use microbeads to only fill the ram’s feet to keep it steady.

I am not sure if I should add eyes to the ram because I want to keep it minimalistic however, I am going to look into adding really small eyes. I don’t want it to become too cartoonish or childish.

Other basic materials I need are needles, white thread, black, and scissors.

Story and Target User

I decided to pick the ram because it kind of holds sentimental value to me. The ram kind of reminds me of home back in Iceland. I do not own sheep but they can be seen in various locations and I used to visit my uncle’s farm a lot when I was a child.

I want to make this night light for adults. I want this to be something that looks good in your home, is aesthetic, and compliments your house. I also want to think of the target user as someone who just move to the city from a small town. This is supposed to be an item that reminds them of home <3

Amazon Kindle 2 Teardown

Introduction

Hi! I am taking down the Amazon Kindle 2 for the Teardown Project for the MakingStudio Course. I have never torn a device down before so this will be interesting.

Tools used

Flathead screwdriver (1)
Precision Screwdriver 50mm (2)
Knife (3)
Plier (4)

Procedure

To get the gray case off, use the flathead screwdriver to get in between the gaps.
To take the steel case off, remove two screws with the precision screwdriver.
With the precision screwdriver, remove all of the screws (20)
Proceed to remove the lithium battery.
Remove the white case.
Under the white case, remove the screws.
Remove the wire from the 3G module
Lift up the brown part.
With a plier remove the connections.
Do that for all of the connections.
Remove the case.
Open and remove the card.
Turn around the board.
This is what it looks like under the screen.
Take the metal pieces off with a knife.
This is what it looks like on the inside.
This is the complete teardown.

Materials/Observation

List and information about the materials in the Kindle.

[1] Casing

I suspect that the casing is made of PP plastic, however, I can not confirm this whereas Amazon does not disclose this kind of information.

[2] Philip Screws

Purpose: To screw things together

[2] Philip Screw

Count: 22 + 4

Serial Number: EY21

Manufacturer: Unknown

Material: Steel

Type: Flathead Philip Screws (EY21)

[3] Lithium Battery

Purpose: To power up the device

[3] Lithium Battery

Type: Lithium Polymer Battery

Serial Number: S11S01B

SKU #: PRB-36

Charge: 3.7V

Capacity: 1530 mAh (milliampere hour)

Dimensions: 2.58 x 2.09 x 0.2 inches

Weight: 1.9 oz

[4] 3G Module

Purpose: Allows a wireless (3G) connection

[4] 3G Module

Model Number: DTP-600W

Serial Number: 0642592

Manufacturer: AnyData

Download Speed: 3.6 Mbps (megabits per second)

Upload Speed: 387 Kbps (kilobits per second)

Dimensions: 51 x 30 x 4.5 mm

[5] SIM Card

Purpose: Allows a wireless (3G) connection

[4] SIM Card

Manufacturer: Orbethur

Dimensions: 15x25x0.76 mm

[4] Screen

Purpose: Allows a display

[5] Screen

Model Number: ED060SC4

Manufacturer: Prime View International

Pixels: 800 x 600

Manufacturer: Unknown

Weight: 35 g

Dimensions: 137.9 x 104.1 x 1.18 mm

[7] Mother Board

[4] 3G Module

Purpose: Allows connections and functions for the Kindle

Model Number: Unknown

Serial Number: sp01216a2twn

Manufacturer: Lab126 (Amazon)

Items I found in the Mother board

[7.1] Power Management Chip

Purpose: Allows battery connection

Model Number: MC13783VK5

Manufacturer: NXP

Output: 500 uA (micro Amper)

Voltage: 4.65 V (Volts)

[7.2] Mobile MDDR Chip

Purpose: Allows mobile connection

Model Number: K4X1G323PE-8GC6

Manufacturer: Samsung

Density: 1 GB

Voltage: 1.9 V

[7.3] Collector-Emitter Breakdown Voltage Chip

Purpose: “The VC at which a specified IC flows, with the base open. -“https://www.tek.com/en/support/faqs/how-do-i-test-bipolar-transistor-collector-emitter-breakdown-voltage-my-curve-tracer

Model Number: D135211B3

Manufacturer: EPSON

Kynix Number: KY962-D135211B3

Voltage: 1.9 V

[7.4] Unknown Items

I tried to look up the other items in the motherboard but did not find any datasheets or get any clues as to what it might be. However looking at previous Kindle 2 teardowns it seem that the items are:

  • USB transceiver
  • Main processor (Freescale chip)
  • Flash Memory and Controller

Manufacturing Techniques/Equipment

It was kind of hard to find the manufacturing techniques whereas Amazon does not want to disclose any information on how their products are made. I see that Amazon does not produce everything on its own, f.e. it uses stuff from AnyData, Samsung, NXP, Epson, and more companies. Some manufacturing techniques I found were the factory quantity packaging for the Power Management Chip is 240 at a time, which means you have to order 240 chips at once. I also found out that the chips are AEC-Q100 qualified which means that they have passed specific tests.

Conclusion

What interested me most about the teardown was how nice the battery looked even though it’s not meant to be seen. I also like how the connections are made from plastic strips instead of wires. It makes everything so seamless.

I am not sure why the battery looks this nice and has these fun details whereas they are not meant to be seen, however, it could be to sell Amazon the product but not the consumers. I think there are no wires because I think they are not as reliable as the plastic strips.

This was a very interesting project as I got to teardown and see what makes a high product. I wish that I had taken a video but I did my teardown in two parts, I will consider doing a video if I do a teardown again 🙂 Thank you for reading through!

Hi, I’m Gudrun

My name is Gudrun Tholl Torfadottir, I’m 22 years old and from Iceland. I just graduated from Reykjavík University with a BS in Mechatronics Engineering. The most recent projects I did were an automated curtain and an electrostatic-ultrasonic sprayer to coat produce.

I like to do all kinds of creative things such as sketching, drawing, designing, building, and the list goes on. I love to hang out with my friends and family and in the winter I like to go snowboarding. I love Italian food, such as Pasta Ragu, Pizza, Ravioli, and more, but my favorite food is steak with baked potatoes and bearnaise sauce.

I look forward to designing and creating stuff in this class. I am the most nervous about misunderstanding the assignments.