3. Night Light Concept (+ target user) A few years ago, I saw the movie First Reformed. I no longer remember the plot, but what I do recall is a scene in which two characters are sitting on a couch next to a floor lamp shaped like an eye. I found that it was designed by Nicola L., a French artist known for her anthropomorphic sculptures that fused bodies with domestic objects.
I plan to make a night light inspired by her ocular lamp. The target audience is anyone who wants to add a touch of anthropomorphic surrealism to their space.
(Update: going to use scrap fabric from FabScrap, which gives me less choice about what fabric I get, but is more sustainable and the unknown adds a fun element to this project).
I’ve always loved the warm, dynamic glow of candlelight—especially how it softens a space and creates a sense of calm that artificial lighting often can’t replicate. But placing a real candle beside the bed is obviously a fire hazard, and electric candles rarely capture that same cozy feeling. So I imagined a plush nightlight that mimics the softness and mood of a candle in a safer, more comforting form.
The design consists of a cylindrical white base made of fabric and polyfill, with a red-orange droplet sewn on top to represent the flame. Inside the droplet is a red LED light, creating a soft internal glow. This design is for people who crave a soothing bedtime atmosphere—whether kids needing gentle light to fall asleep or adults who want that candle-like coziness without the risk. It’s a plush that feels safe, warm, and slightly magical, just like a flame you can hold.
GlowClam
I’ve always found the sound and imagery of the ocean calming—something about the rhythm of waves and the hidden beauty beneath the surface helps me relax, especially before sleep. That led me to the idea of a glowing clam: a soft, plush object that opens to reveal a glowing, cloud-like center.
The outer shell is made of fabric wrapped around two 3D-printed forms, giving it a stable, structured feel, while the interior is filled with polyfill and soft blue lights to mimic a glowing sea pearl or bioluminescent sea life. The clam opens and closes, making the action of lighting it up feel a bit magical—like revealing a hidden treasure. I’m calling it the GlowClam for now, though I’m open to better names! This design is meant for anyone who finds peace in ocean themes or enjoys a bit of interactive play in their bedtime routine. It’s a light you gently “open” to find calm, inspired by the sea.
SipralLume
Falling asleep in the dark can feel unsettling, especially when there’s nothing to anchor your focus. I’ve always loved looking at the stars or imagining galaxies as a way to mentally drift into sleep—so I designed a plush nightlight inspired by a spiral galaxy. I’m calling it SpiraLume.
Its form spirals outward from a wide, bright center into a narrowing, dimmer outer edge. Scattered white LED lights are embedded throughout, with their brightness fading as they approach the ends of the spiral, just like distant stars fading into the night. I also wanted to explore more sculptural plush forms that play with asymmetry and motion—something visually intriguing even when it’s off. This piece is for users who need just a soft visual presence in the dark, or who enjoy imaginative shapes that invite storytelling or cosmic wonder as part of a bedtime ritual.
Background Story: A regular sleep schedule is something many young people aspire to for better health, yet in reality it is often difficult to maintain. Many times people completely lose track of time, only to realize it is already late at night. For those who work hard, long hours of effort can also lead them to neglect proper rest. That is why I designed this small night lamp—to act as a gentle alarm that reminds people to pay attention to their bedtime and protect their health.
Red light glowing slow–fast: go to bed now!
Yellow light: Remember to get some rest
Interaction: Squish/push the fluffy light to count down the time.
2.HydroBuddy Glow
Staying hydrated is a simple habit many people know is important for health, but in daily life it is often overlooked. With busy schedules, long hours of work, or constant focus on screens, people forget to drink water until they feel tired or unwell. This small reminder lamp was designed to serve as a gentle signal, encouraging people to pause, take a sip, and care for their bodies. It is not just a light, but a small reminder that health often begins with the simplest actions.
Blue light: Just drank the water
Yellow light: Take a sip
Red light: you forgot to drink water!
The night light is a “water droplet” that reminds you to stay hydrated. When you gently squeeze or tap it, it starts a “hydration timer.” Squeeze again for next cycle.
3.EyeSaver Glow
The small lamp is like a little “eye-guardian spirit.” When you begin using your phone, you press its tiny ear to start a “countdown.” As time passes, the lamp gradually changes its glow, reminding you when your eyes need a break and guiding you to rest before fatigue sets in.
Green light: you can have fun with your “phoneriend”
Red light: put your phone on it and get some rest!
One of my sisters moved to Finland when I was young, and introduced me to Moomin. He still retains a magical quality and has already got an inviting plush figure. My son’s Moomin plush quickly became one of the few bedtime indispensables–so potentially even more magic than I was aware of.
After a few days, I came up with ideas that didn’t involve a beloved children’s character protected by Finnish copyright law.
BedtimeBalloons
Story and target users: My son love balloons. I thought this would be a fun way to let him be able to sleep with balloons, when the real ones have to sleep on the couch. He’s also getting closer to potentially wanting a nightlight, so, safety permitting, this might be a fun way to do that 🙂 I see this being a cute idea for helping bedtime be a little more fun.
Story and target users: I love plants–especially ones that trail. But some rooms just don’t get enough sunlight. Pilea Plush could be a charming way to incorporate a bit of flora into your child’s room (and mayyyybe the bathroom). Depending on execution, it could potentially work for adults as well. I’d need: A battery pack, LEDs (white), Felt (green, brown, tan), polyfill.
Pomodoro Pillow
Story and target users: Since we’re shopping for one now, I started with the idea of an ‘OK to Wake’ Clock for toddlers. I got the idea for a plush stoplight version, but then I saw that there is already an Elmo Stoplight OK to Wake Clock–so it looks like Elmo bested me again. So I thought about other use cases for a stoplight style plush, and thought about socks on doors that signal–among other things–”don’t come in.” But the product here doesn’t fit the target audience.
Then I remembered that for another class I’ve been working on a design to tackle task management for people with ADHD or who face challenges with their executive functions. So, slightly returning to the clock idea, I thought about the pomodoro method, of having a visual countdown. Personally, and having ADHD, I find a countdown to be a distraction from my intended task. But what if, instead of a clock, it was something more interactive? What if my pomodoro were a small pillow on which I would rest what distracts me most, until it’s light shut off to signifying I could pick it up again? I’m too invested now–I’m going to have to see if this works. I’ll need: A battery pack, LEDs (white), a timer module, plush fabric, polyfill.
When I was a child, I was terrified of mirrors. Even now, I still feel uncomfortable around them. Back then, I didn’t fully understand the importance of brushing my teeth, and I often used my fear of mirrors as an excuse to avoid it. Before I started changing my baby teeth, one of them had developed into a very serious cavity. My first visit to the dentist left me with a lasting, frightening memory. Now, my relationship with dental care is completely different. I go for regular cleanings, brush and floss daily, and I hardly have dental problems anymore. That change made me realize how powerful early habits can be. I designed a tooth-shaped night light to reflect that journey. The idea is that brushing your teeth often happens right before bed, when the room starts to get dim. A soft night light that doubles as a comforting plush toy turns this daily routine into something playful and safe.
I hope that through this design, children can begin to see dental care in a positive light. Instead of fear or avoidance, they can associate teeth with warmth, comfort, and protection. My target users are children, dental clinics, and dental schools—places where creating a more reassuring atmosphere around oral health can make a big difference.
description of the parts and materials you plan to use
Soft fabric (minky fabric, fleece) for main part
Translucent fabric or soft plastic film for light part
step 1–Locate the SIM-card slot and insert a small flat-head screwdriver into the SIM-card notch. Carefully pry the rear cover away in small, controlled increments until it detaches.
step 2–Using a precision screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the battery to the mainboard. Carefully peel away the insulating tape on top of the battery, then lift and remove the battery from the housing.
step 3–Peel off the conductive fabric tape covering the flex cable, and pull out the flex cable from both ends of the connectors.
step 4–Use a small screwdriver to remove the screws securing the speaker module to the motherboard, unplug the soldered wires from the connector on the motherboard, and take out the speaker module.
step 5–Use a small screwdriver to remove the remaining three screws on the motherboard, unplug the connector cable between the motherboard and the antenna module, and take out the motherboard.
step 6–Remove the antenna module.
step 7–Use a heat gun to warm the edges of the screen and separate the screen from the frame, then remove the volume and power button assemblies.
step 8–Use a small screwdriver to unscrew the screws at the charging port and remove the charging port.
Overview
Materials Used for Each Component
Back Cover And Mid Frame
The back cover and mid frame of the Verizon Ellipsis 8 tablet are primarily made of plastic. The back cover features a plastic shell designed with ease of disassembly and repair in mind. The mid frame is also made of plastic, reinforced with metal brackets and screws to ensure structural stability.
2. Screen Assembly
The screen assembly of the Verizon Ellipsis 8 is made of multiple materials to ensure its functionality and durability. The surface consists of a reinforced glass panel, such as Corning Gorilla Glass, which provides scratch and impact resistance. The touch layer uses a transparent conductive material, such as Indium Tin Oxide (ITO), to sense touch input. The LCD display provides image output and works together with a backlight. The midframe is usually made of plastic or aluminum alloy to support and secure the screen assembly. Additionally, the flex cable uses flexible printed circuit (FPC) technology to connect the touch screen to the motherboard, transmitting touch signals and display data.
3. Motherboard And SoC Area
The motherboard and SoC area of the Verizon Ellipsis 8 consist of the PCB (FR4) for support and connections, silicon chips in plastic packages soldered via BGA, thermal materials like paste, copper, or aluminum, plastic and metal connectors, and passive components made of ceramic, metal, or electrolytic materials. These materials ensure mechanical strength, electrical performance, and heat management.
4. Battery and Flex Cables
The Verizon Ellipsis 8 uses a Li-Po soft-pack battery with aluminum-plastic film, lithium-ion electrolyte, copper, and aluminum foils for lightweight, high-density power. Its casing and pads are plastic and foam or silicone for shock and insulation. Flex cables (FPC) made of polyimide or polyester with copper connect the screen, buttons, and camera to the motherboard, with plastic and metal contacts ensuring reliable signal transmission.
Manufacturing and Assembly
The Verizon Ellipsis 8 is made using reinforced glass, multi-layer PCB, BGA chip packaging, soft-pack batteries, and injection-molded or die-cast chassis. The screen is laminated to the midframe, chips and components are surface-mounted and BGA-soldered, and thermal materials are applied to the SoC. Batteries and flex cables are installed and secured with pads, screws, and connectors. The final assembly is fixed with clips and adhesive, then tested for functionality, ensuring precision, reliability, and lightweight design.
Tools Used for Disassembly
1. Small Phillips screwdriver
2. flathead screwdriver
3. heat gun
Two Areas of Interest
For me, the first thing I noticed about this tablet is its unique screen. The screen is surrounded by a midframe, which makes it feel like a very durable tablet, as it doesn’t seem likely to break easily if dropped. This is a point that interests me because it looks different from a typical iPad and seems well-suited for outdoor activities. During the disassembly process, I also found that the screen is relatively easy to remove, which suggests that the design may have considered replacement, allowing the tablet to have a longer lifespan.
The second aspect is its clean internal layout, with clearly defined module sections and a compact arrangement of the motherboard and screen. Each component is very easy to remove, and the entire assembly is secured with only ten screws. I think this is a very clever choice, as it makes the tablet relatively easy to disassemble with a clear removal path, facilitating replacements. This is also a great way to extend the lifespan of the device, while keeping the body lightweight and slim.
Born and raised in Chongqing, China, Aijun Jiang received his Bachelor’s degree in Industrial Design from Beijing University of Chemical Technology, where he studied in the Sino-Italian Cooperative Education Program with the University of Genoa.
My design practice spans product design, interaction, and service, with projects ranging from a pregnancy stretch mark antipruritic device to a modular furniture sofa series and a volunteering platform app.My independent project on a stretch mark relief device reflected my interest in user-centered research, material exploration, and prototyping. I have been recognized with the Third Prize in the Beijing Region at the 7th Milan Design Week China Collegiate Design Competition & Exhibition.
I’m passionate about exploring how industrial design can integrate interaction, sustainability, and cultural perspectives.
The modem is primarily made of plastic for the outer container, and contains metals like copper and aluminum in its internal electronic parts. The circuit board is made from fiberglass, gold and other materials.
The electronics all exist on a single circuit board.
Tools Used: Hands Small screwdriver Pliers
Technique To me, the takedown for this felt rather straightforward.
1. I used pliers to peel back the sticky tabs (feet) on the bottom of the modem 2. I used the screwdriver to take out the small screws holding the body together. Then I used my hands to pry open the body which revealed the circuit board. 3.I used my pliers to cut the rubber screws holding the Cable Modem chip in place, which released the springs and allowed me to remove it -> pictured below.
Parts Note: I found it a bit difficult to find the exact model of my modem online, so I used similar devices to try and identify the electronic parts.
I inserted the quote below to provide context around the parts that I could not identify.
“The cable modem chip connects to two memory chips, one a synchronous DRAM, the other a Flash. The flash chip lets the cable company change aspects of the subscriber’s internet service without actually changing any hardware. In that regard, the flash chip holds configuration data and comes into play, say, when a cable subscriber buys more download speed from the cable company.” – https://www.microcontrollertips.com/teardown-inside-cable-modem/
The device I took apart is what I believe to be the Fitbit Flex. Released as one of Fitbit’s earlier activity trackers, the Flex stood out for its minimalist design: no screen, just a slim core module that tracked steps, activity, and sleep while sitting inside a flexible rubber wristband. Its simplicity and lightweight build made it popular, and the removable band design allowed users to swap colors and styles with ease.
Tools I used for this teardown:
My hands
Tweezers
Precision screwdriver handle
Extra smaller precision screwdriver handle for the tiniest screws
To begin the teardown, I first removed the tracker from the band. Since the Flex was designed to be interchangeable, this step was fairly easy—I just used my hands to press and slide the small tracker module out of the wristband. Once I had the core in hand, I noticed there were three tiny screws securing it to the band, although one was already missing. Using my precision screwdriver, I carefully removed the remaining screws. Because of their size, I switched to an even smaller screwdriver handle to make sure I didn’t strip or lose them.
With the screws removed, the tracker was free from the strap, leaving me with the main module ready for further disassembly.
After removing the module from the band, we can see the silicone strap with its inner plastic casing that holds the electronics in place. Inside the cavity is a rubber insert, which helps reinforce the housing and keep the capsule secure. Next to it is the main capsule, which contains the circuit board, chips, and the LED indicator section. There’s also some adhesive residue around the housing, showing how the unit was sealed into the strap.
Upon further examination of the unit, we can see that the capsule houses all the core electronics. The main PCB (printed circuit board) is exposed, with various chips, sensors, and contact pads visible. At one end sits the LED indicator array, responsible for displaying the familiar row of dots on the tracker. The construction shows how compactly everything is integrated into a single module, designed to slide neatly into the strap while remaining water-resistant and durable.
I continued to pry open the Fitbit Flex using tweezers and observed the battery section. There’s a circular coin-cell battery, which looks like a standard lithium battery for small devices. Next to it, there’s a square replaceable battery with the markings +LSSP031420AB – 531869887, connected to the PCB via a small connector.
The NFC antenna is also visible. It’s a thin coil integrated into a flexible PCB, and during the teardown, it was broken. On the Flex, this antenna isn’t used for payments; it primarily handles wireless signal functions, like aiding Bluetooth syncing or device detection.
Opening the case exposes the main circuit board. At the center is a white flex connector, which links the board to the battery and sensors. Around it are gold test pads used in manufacturing to check the circuits.
On the left is the cavity for the vibration motor, responsible for buzz alerts. The right side shows the battery compartment, where the lithium-polymer cell normally sits, with contacts connecting to the board. The yellow gasket material around the edges helps seal and protect the electronics from sweat and movement.
The main printed circuit board (PCB) sits in the module, holding the microcontroller, memory, accelerometer, and power management circuitry that make the Flex track steps, monitor sleep, and sync with your phone.
On the PCB, there are small white label stickers with QR codes. These are identification labels that contain information like serial numbers, batch numbers, and part identifiers. They are used during manufacturing for tracking, testing, and quality control, and don’t affect the device’s normal operation.
The Fitbit Flex is built starting with the rigid multilayer PCB, where copper traces and vias are etched and laminated. Surface-mount components like the microcontroller, memory, accelerometer, PMIC, LEDs, and tiny resistors and capacitors are placed on the board using pick-and-place machines and soldered in reflow ovens. The NFC antenna is etched onto a flexible PCB, while the battery and connectors are attached with solder and adhesive. The silicone band is injection-molded, and the tracker module is snapped into place. After assembly, each unit is tested for step tracking, Bluetooth syncing, vibration, and LEDs using test fixtures and optical inspection.
Two design elements that interested me are the removable rechargeable battery and the NFC antenna. I found it really interesting that the Fitbit Flex has a replaceable battery, and even an extra one tucked in the module. The designers likely added this to extend the device’s lifespan, letting users swap batteries instead of replacing the whole tracker. It also adds convenience for servicing and ensures the device remains reliable over time. The thin copper NFC antenna also caught my attention. Even though the Flex doesn’t use it for payments, it’s included to enhance wireless communication, like improving Bluetooth syncing or device detection. Its compact and flexible placement shows careful consideration for space, signal strength, and interference with other components.
In conclusion, the Fitbit Flex’s tracker module showcases a compact, efficient design. From the replaceable battery to the PCB with the microcontroller and accelerometer, and the LEDs and NFC antenna, every component serves a specific function while minimizing size. The device’s modularity, careful component placement, and lightweight design highlight the thoughtfulness of the engineering and make the Flex both functional and durable.
My first Making Studio assignment involved disassembling an old AquaSonic electric toothbrush. It appears that this model is no longer available for sale on the AquaSonic e-commerce website.
As this was my first teardown, there was a lot to learn! I struggled to find full teardown examples of electric toothbrushes, but was able to use some common sense and guessing to get started. Other than encountering some unfortunate toothbrush-related gunk, I was pleasantly surprised at how smoothly the first half of the process unfolded. However, I ran into quite a bit of trouble removing the circuit board (16) and Li-Ion battery (15) from the interior plastic framework (20). I was hesitant to exert too much brute force as I was fearful of damaging the battery.
Here is a visual breakdown of my chronological process. The parts are numbered in the order in which they were taken apart, and can be referenced in the parts section further down.
While attempting to remove the Printed Circuit Board/PCB (16), a lot of LED indicators (PCB 04) lit up, and I was unable to turn them off for a while. The intensity of the light was surprisingly bright.
I eventually used wirecutters and a larger screwdriver to remove the PCB (16) from the plastic framework (20), and the Li-Ion battery (15) was easily removable after that.
COMPONENTS
1. Outer Case: plastic 2. Brush Connector Base: plastic 3. Motor Shaft Bearing: steel? 4. Top Gasket: plastic 5. Button Covers: silicon or rubber 6. Screws: stainless steel 7. Top Ring: rubber 8. Motor O-ring: rubber 9. Motor Gasket: rubber 10. Motor Case: steel 11. Small Brush Motor O-ring: plastic or rubber 12. Charging Base Clip: plastic + metal (copper?) 13. TBD Brush Motor Part: plastic? 14. Brush Motor Rotor + Vibrating Rod: copper coil, steel 15. 14500 Li-Ion Battery Cell: lithium, nickel, cobalt, maybe manganese(?) 16. PCB: copper, fiberglass, resin 17. Base O-ring Seal: silicon or rubber 18. Charger Coil: copper 19. Base: plastic 20. Inner Frame: plastic
Chip Details I was unable to locate any part numbers on the chips. Some research suggests that they are surface-mounted Integrated Chips (IC) with Dual in-Line Package (DIP) form factors. It seems that the larger one is likely a Microcontroller (MCU), which controls motor speed, timing, LED indicators, charging, etc. The other is possibly a Power Management chip, controlling battery charging and protection from overcharging.
Type: TBD Manufacturer: TBD
MANUFACTURING
01. Plastic Injection Molding is used to create the internal plastic pieces (frame, button covers) and outer case. This involves melting plastic pellets (polycarbonate, polypropylene, ABS) and injecting them into precision molds. Parts are removed after cooling. This technique is used to ensure precision and water resistance. 02. PCB Manufacturing + Assembly involves photolithography, surface-mount technology (SMT), and solder mask application 03. Metal Stamping/Machining is used to create motor shafts and other metal components. Sheet metal stamping, turning, and precision machining are techniques that are used in this process. 04. Li-Ion Battery Cell Manufacturing happens under very controlled conditions. It involves various steps that conclude with packaging. 05. Motor Assembly is crucial to ensuring the brush will vibrate. Copper wires are coiled around rotors, and all motor-related parts (rings, gaskets, bearings, etc.) are assembled. 06. Final Assembly occurs when all components are combined using manual or automated assembly methods. Adhesive sealing or ultrasonic welding techniques are used to waterproof.
TOOLS/TECHNIQUES
01. Wire Cutter: Used to remove the PCB (16) from the plastic frame (20), also used to remove the base (19) from the plastic frame (20) 02. Screwdriver: used to pry apart larger/more unwieldy pieces (like removing the PCB board from the plastic framework) 03. Small Steel Screwdriver: used to unscrew screws (06) and to pry apart small pieces that were glued together 04. Wrench: Used to grip and remove larger parts that were glued together 05. My Hand (Not Pictured): Used during the entire teardown process to manipulate tools, etc.
DESIGN ELEMENTS
01. I found it interesting that the interface is very simple (compared with most of their current models). There are two buttons (05); the top one is the power button and is labeled “ON/OFF”. As it no longer functions, I am inferring that the second “button” is a charging indicator. This simple interface is representative of the limited capabilities/modes.
02. Indented arch shapes on the back of the outer case (01) seem to be placed where one’s fingers would go when gripping the toothbrush. It is a nice ergonomic touch.
03. (Not Picture) Overall, it is clear that this was not designed to be taken apart. I’m curious how much of this is due to capitalism, discouraging DIY fixes and encouraging new purchases, and if any of it has to do with safety due to the lithium battery.
