I’d like to preface this post by saying that I don’t think the screenprintinghowto.org tutorial is all that effective, yet there are some parts of it that I would consider incorporating into an Instructable. First, they talk about the cost of the raw materials. Since our tutorial focuses on beginners making unique/monoprints, it might be nice to say how much each material costs, just so that the user knows what they are getting into. Also they have step that focuses on clean up, and our tutorial might benefit from that as well.
I’m sorry to say that I did not take my digital camera to Maker Faire last weekend and I have no images of a booth to contribute to this post. But I did want to write to you about an organization called the Fixers Collective from Brooklyn. If you have broken electronics or gadgets, you can take them to this group, and they will show you how to fix them. There’s a lot of value in fixing things, both by saving money on the purchase of a new item and the sense of accomplishment by restoring something you want to use. I’m really big into analog cameras, so I struck up a conversation with these fellows regarding my Mamiya M645. This camera has been having trouble advancing film to the next frame which results in double or triple exposures. There are little gears in the film back that often slip if the teeth are worn out. I’m definitely considering going to Fixer Collective space to see if I can learn how to fix this camera. I’ll post an image (below) that I took with the Mamiya when it was working properly.
I’ve looked at -> this tutorial before on several occasions and I find it to be the most comprehensive on this subject matter. Old Kodak Brownie cameras (like the Duaflex that’s on my desk) accept out of production 620 film. Luckily for us camera fanatics, it is possible to re-spool 120 film on old 620 reels. 120 film is essentially the same as 620, just the reels are of different dimensions. People speculate that these two sizes of reels were developed to increase competition between foreign and domestic manufacturers. Whatever the case, it will be a joyous occasion when I take my Duaflex out to shoot for the first time. REMEMBER that if you decide to try this, you NEED to be in total darkness!
What if you’re out in the wilderness and you don’t have an axe or a fancy pneumatic wood splitter handy? What do you do when you need fuel for a fire? Ray Mears helps us out with this DIY tutorial. This tutorial is great because it is short, it highlights some of the neat properties of wood and it shows a new use for the pull saw.
Hi all. I decided to post a serious tutorial followed by a couple of sillier ones. The first is how to change a bike tube when you get a flat. I appreciate this video, because it tells you what to do and also what to be careful of. For instance, remembering to unhook your break calipers when taking the tire/rim off of the fork. Learning how to change tubes is really convenient and it can save you lots of money (because bike shops charge for labor and for parts).
Ok, so now for the sillier ones… This is a guide about the things that Pittsburghers say. Sometimes you will actually hear people say Yinz and Redd Up. So I think its useful…Right? Right?
Finally, Don’t mix milk with RedBull… The song is a nice touch.
This is the Tyvek Bicycle Brake Light! It works with simple push-button Arduino code. For this project, I wanted to create a bike accessory that I could actually use. The brake light comes in handy while riding in heavy traffic!
Above is the initial sketch and first Arduino mock-up.
The light is comprised of two 12V LED strips, wood and acrylic. A Tyvek FedEx envelope holds the electrical components which are zip tied to the bike frame. To make the light I used an online box generator to create the geometry for the wooden pieces. Then I created a hexagonal pattern in AutoCAD for the “BRAKE” text which was laser cut into the surface of the acrylic. I am quite happy with the esthetic of the piece, but I wrestled for hours over the electronics. Richard helped me figure out that I had the batteries wired up incorrectly, and that’s why my TIP120 transistor was overheating. I think I got a perfect circle burned into my fingertips from the transistor!
The next step for me would be to fit an FSR sensor to the brake lever so that it would trigger the light.
Hello class! I’m excited to share with you my in-progress bicycle brake light. As of now, the housing has been laser-cut and the LEDs are working with a pushbutton. This is illustrated below.
This project is inspired by the recent bicycle/driver related accidents and violence in my hometown. Here is an article describing one of the events. Its always precarious to slow down or stop suddenly while riding in heavy traffic since there is no indication of this with standard lights.
I think I will use the Adafruit tutorial for the FSR sensor which is going to be mounted on the brake lever.
I couldn’t help but want to do a traditional two-dimensional portrait at first. I was thinking about coating my FedEX envelopes with cyanotype emulsion and “burning” an image onto the surface. But I didn’t feel like cyanotype said anything about the versatility and durabilty of Tyvek. This material can be twisted and pulled without tearing, making it more akin to textile than paper. I did away with the cyanotype idea and went in a 3d direction. Since Tyvek is super strong, I wanted my portrait to stand on its own without a structural frame. That’s when it seemed inevitable that I would make an inflatable sculpture!
The first step was to figure out how to get air into the sculpture. I didn’t want to buy a fan or waste new material in the making of this portrait, so I ran to Sid’s bikes on 19th Street where I picked up some old tubes with presta valves.
This is a shot of the first test. The FedEX envelope was modified with a valve and then sealed with glue.
With a few hundred pumps (from my portable pump) the envelope inflated! Time to go big…
Handsome devil aint he? All inflatable heads need a base right? Right?
With inspiration from Katie, I fabricated an acrylic base. The punch-outs are for access to the presta valve.
Here is the simulated final result with its easily accessible valve.
Here he is, my slightly inflated self portrait!
Luckily Dave is going to bring in a full size pump for me, because my hand-held pump just isn’t cutting it!