sophia’s final rotating pill lamp

we did it. we made it to the end. here is my final rotating pill lamp that I am incredibly excited to share with you all 🙂

here is “A Tough Pill to Swallow” … I really liked this name at first but wasn’t sure if it was too serious so for the sake of the product title on Instructables it is “Rotating Pill Lamp”

This project is a large pill-shaped lamp that reminds users to take their medicine. When the pill lamp is rotated 180 degrees the lamp turns off and then when rotated again it will turn back on. This links the action of turning off the lamp before going to sleep with taking one’s pills before bed. This lamp is a great way to remember to take your medicine while also adding a unique light to any room!

Step 0: Sketch it Out!

Step 1: Parts, Tools, and Materials

Step 2: 3D Modeling 

Step 3: Paper Mache

Step 4: Circuit Diagram and Code

#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>

// Which pin on the Arduino is connected to the NeoPixels?
// On a Trinket or Gemma we suggest changing this to 1:
#define LED_PIN    5

#define SENSOR_PIN    3

// How many NeoPixels are attached to the Arduino?
#define LED_COUNT 12

// Variables will change:
int buttonPushCounter = 0;  // counter for the number of button presses
int buttonState = 1;        // current state of the button
int lastButtonState = 0;    // previous state of the button

// Declare our NeoPixel strip object:
Adafruit_NeoPixel strip(LED_COUNT, LED_PIN, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);
// Argument 1 = Number of pixels in NeoPixel strip
// Argument 2 = Arduino pin number (most are valid)
// Argument 3 = Pixel type flags, add together as needed:
//   NEO_KHZ800  800 KHz bitstream (most NeoPixel products w/WS2812 LEDs)
//   NEO_KHZ400  400 KHz (classic 'v1' (not v2) FLORA pixels, WS2811 drivers)
//   NEO_GRB     Pixels are wired for GRB bitstream (most NeoPixel products)
//   NEO_RGB     Pixels are wired for RGB bitstream (v1 FLORA pixels, not v2)
//   NEO_RGBW    Pixels are wired for RGBW bitstream (NeoPixel RGBW products)

void setup()
{
  pinMode(SENSOR_PIN, INPUT_PULLUP);
  //pinMode(LED_BUILTIN, OUTPUT);
  
  strip.begin();           // INITIALIZE NeoPixel strip object (REQUIRED)
  strip.show();            // Turn OFF all pixels ASAP
  strip.setBrightness(175); // Set BRIGHTNESS to about 1/5 (max = 255)
  
  Serial.begin(9600);
}

void loop()
{
  // read the state of the pushbutton value
  buttonState = digitalRead(SENSOR_PIN);
  
  
    // compare the buttonState to its previous state
  if (buttonState != lastButtonState) {
    // if the state has changed, increment the counter
    if (buttonState == LOW) {
      // if the current state is LOW then the button went from off to on:
      buttonPushCounter++;
      Serial.println("on");
      Serial.print("number of button pushes: ");
      Serial.println(buttonPushCounter);
      colorAll(strip.Color(  255,   25, 25));
      delay(2000);

    } else {
      // if the current state is LOW then the button went from on to off:
      Serial.println("off");
      colorAll(strip.Color(  0,   0, 0));
      delay(2000);
    }
    // Delay a little bit to avoid bouncing
    delay(50);
  }
  
  // save the current state as the last state, for next time through the loop
  lastButtonState = buttonState;
}

// Fill strip pixels one after another with a color. Strip is NOT cleared
// first; anything there will be covered pixel by pixel. Pass in color
// (as a single 'packed' 32-bit value, which you can get by calling
// strip.Color(red, green, blue) as shown in the loop() function above),
// and a delay time (in milliseconds) between pixels.
void colorWipe(uint32_t color, int wait) {
  for(int i=0; i<strip.numPixels(); i++) { // For each pixel in strip...
    strip.setPixelColor(i, color);         //  Set pixel's color (in RAM)
    strip.show();                          //  Update strip to match
    delay(wait);                           //  Pause for a moment
  }
}

// Fill strip with a color without animating. Pass in color
// (as a single 'packed' 32-bit value, which you can get by calling
// strip.Color(red, green, blue) as shown in the loop() function above).
void colorAll(uint32_t color) {
  for(int i=0; i<strip.numPixels(); i++) { // For each pixel in strip...
    strip.setPixelColor(i, color);         //  Set pixel's color (in RAM)
  }
  strip.show();                          //  Update strip to match
}

Step 5: Circuit Construction 

Step 6: Assemble and Enjoy!

I chose to go with a bright pink for my pill lamp but the beauty of this lamp is that it is customizable and can be changed at any time by editing the code. This lamp creation is still an ongoing process so I would love any feedback for those reading. My goal is to add strong magnets in the top and bottom of the pill and the base as it is a little top-heavy, but please let me know if there is anything else you would add! Thank you!

Instructables: https://www.instructables.com/Rotating-Pill-Lamp

I learned a lot from this experience. I think the top 3 were first that things always go wrong. You have to have the patience and the time because you will make mistakes and need to pivot and do something different. second is that you can’t be a perfectionist when making a prototype it will never be exactly what you see in your head. third is that I need to be proud of the work that I do and the effort I put into it. I am still trying on that one.

Thanks 🙂

sophia’s rotating pill lamp!

this is the design I decided to go with for my final!

for those who haven’t seen or read it before it is a large pill shaped lamp that reminds me to take my meds before I go to sleep. It links the act of turning off the lamp before I get in bed to also taking my pills so I don’t forget!

for my supplies I am planning in the next day or so to buy 3D printing filament, a tilt ball switch sensor, some sort of neopixels, a battery, and clear material to use on the vacuum former. my goal is to 3D print one half and use the vacuum former to create a replica of the other half that is clear. the first half of the pill with the light will be clear and the other half will be opaque.

I am planning on using a tilt ball switch which will sense when I rotate the lamp 180 degrees and it will turn off. I found the sensor in tinkercad which you can see below but this doesn’t have the arduino board or whatever neopixel I decide to use (whether that be two strips back to back like my Halloween costume or maybe one or two neopixel rings. to be decided)

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/gLiH5KUTCNb/editel?lessonid=EHD2303J3YPUS5Z&projectid=OT2JZ1PL20FZRMO&collectionid=OMOZACHJ9IR8LRE&title=Start%20Simulating&sharecode=E3UWuKD1W3_fQ2jZFFiNpDBuY1Hto6-PMHUmBaVMDZU

I have not yet sketched out my storyboard but picture this:

you are in a girl’s dorm room as she comes in after a long day and throws her bag on the floor. she does some homework at her desk, maybe eats dinner, and then gets in bed to watch tv. hours pass and she gets up to brush her teeth get ready for bed and as she turns the overhead lights off the lamp becomes the focus. she then remembers her meds! she takes her pills and then rotates the lamp to turn it off and the room goes dark. the video goes dark and a title slide appears with the title of the project.

here is the link to my Instructables account which I funny enough created in 2013 and totally forgot about it… 11 year old sophia had big plans haha

https://www.instructables.com/member/sophiaehaase/instructables

and here is the link to my started Google Doc with the project info… and by started I mean I wrote the title I’m really sorry I will get right on it tomorrow!

https://docs.google.com/document/d/17lOZi1Jwb8oOnwerSOylZvLtUgJnkNZ-pZ7O2jqHch8/edit?usp=sharing

thanks :]

Ana and Sophia’s Simlish Halloween!

Sul sul!

For Halloween this year we dressed up as the Pleasant sisters, Lilith and Angela Pleasant, from the Sims including a Plumbob with lights to display all of the different Sims’ emotions.

I, Ana, grew up playing Sims (maybe too early in my life) and I’ve always wanted to be a Sim for Halloween. When we were brainstorming ideas for Halloween, I shared with Sophia that I was thinking of being a Sim, and she loved the idea. On that day… Sophia and I became Sims, the Pleasant sisters to be exact. Overall, it was really fun to get dressed up and be a Sim for a little bit but I do think we can make some improvements. It felt pretty uncomfortable and not too secure to be wearing a wig and a headband and a tall wire on our heads, so I think for next time, maybe we would make the height of the Plumbob a little shorter so the weight distribution doesn’t have as much effect. Also maybe we would professionally hire someone to put the wigs on us 😅

and I, Sophia, approve this message hehe

Materials and parts used:

  1. Blank Mylar Stencil Sheets
  2. Headband
  3. Red wig
  4. 20 gauge wire from VFL
  5. Cute outfit <3
  6. Gemma M0
  7. 2x NeoPixel LED Strips
  8. Plumbob template below

After much trial and tribulation here is our Arduino code that triggers the 5 different Sims color emotions with the push of a button on our headbands

// Simple demonstration on using an input device to trigger changes on your
// NeoPixels. Wire a momentary push button to connect from ground to a
// digital IO pin. When the button is pressed it will change to a new pixel
// animation. Initial state has all pixels off -- press the button once to
// start the first animation. As written, the button does not interrupt an
// animation in-progress, it works only when idle.

#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>
#ifdef __AVR__
 #include <avr/power.h> // Required for 16 MHz Adafruit Trinket
#endif

// Digital IO pin connected to the button. This will be driven with a
// pull-up resistor so the switch pulls the pin to ground momentarily.
// On a high -> low transition the button press logic will execute.
#define BUTTON_PIN   2

#define PIXEL_PIN    1  // Digital IO pin connected to the NeoPixels.

#define PIXEL_COUNT 8  // Number of NeoPixels

// Declare our NeoPixel strip object:
Adafruit_NeoPixel strip(PIXEL_COUNT, PIXEL_PIN, NEO_GRBW + NEO_KHZ800);
// Argument 1 = Number of pixels in NeoPixel strip
// Argument 2 = Arduino pin number (most are valid)
// Argument 3 = Pixel type flags, add together as needed:
//   NEO_KHZ800  800 KHz bitstream (most NeoPixel products w/WS2812 LEDs)
//   NEO_KHZ400  400 KHz (classic 'v1' (not v2) FLORA pixels, WS2811 drivers)
//   NEO_GRB     Pixels are wired for GRB bitstream (most NeoPixel products)
//   NEO_RGB     Pixels are wired for RGB bitstream (v1 FLORA pixels, not v2)
//   NEO_RGBW    Pixels are wired for RGBW bitstream (NeoPixel RGBW products)

boolean oldState = HIGH;
int     mode     = 0;    // Currently-active animation mode, 0-9

void setup() {
  pinMode(BUTTON_PIN, INPUT_PULLUP);
    strip.setBrightness(150); // Set BRIGHTNESS to about 1/5 (max = 255)
  strip.begin(); // Initialize NeoPixel strip object (REQUIRED)
  strip.show();  // Initialize all pixels to 'off'

  //Serial.begin(9600); 
  
}

void loop() {
  // Get current button state.

  boolean newState = digitalRead(BUTTON_PIN);

/*
  if (newState == 1){
    colorWipe(strip.Color(0,   255,   0), 50);
  }

  if (newState == 0){
    colorWipe(strip.Color(0,   0,   0), 50);
  }
*/
  //Serial.print(newState);

  // Check if state changed from high to low (button press).
  if((newState == 0) && (oldState == 1)) {
    // Short delay to debounce button.
    delay(20);
    // Check if button is still low after debounce.
    newState = digitalRead(BUTTON_PIN);
    //if(newState == 0) {      // Yes, still low
      if(++mode > 7) mode = 0; // Advance to next mode, wrap around after #8
      switch(mode) {           // Start the new animation...
        case 0:
          colorWipe(strip.Color(  0,   0,   0), 50);    // Black/off
          break;
        case 1:
          colorWipe(strip.Color(0,   255,   0), 50);    // Green
          break;
        case 2:
          colorWipe(strip.Color(  255, 0,   0), 50);    // Red
          break;
        case 3:
          colorWipe(strip.Color(  0,   0, 255), 50);    // Dark Blue
          break;
        case 4:
          colorWipe(strip.Color(255, 80, 147), 50); // Pink
          break;
        case 5:
          colorWipe(strip.Color(255,   255,   0), 50); // Yellow
          break;
      }
    //}
  }

  // Set the last-read button state to the old state.
  oldState = newState;
}

// Fill strip pixels one after another with a color. Strip is NOT cleared
// first; anything there will be covered pixel by pixel. Pass in color
// (as a single 'packed' 32-bit value, which you can get by calling
// strip.Color(red, green, blue) as shown in the loop() function above),
// and a delay time (in milliseconds) between pixels.
void colorWipe(uint32_t color, int wait) {
  for(int i=0; i<strip.numPixels(); i++) { // For each pixel in strip...
    strip.setPixelColor(i, color);         //  Set pixel's color (in RAM)
    strip.show();                          //  Update strip to match
    delay(wait);                           //  Pause for a moment
  }
}

// Theater-marquee-style chasing lights. Pass in a color (32-bit value,
// a la strip.Color(r,g,b) as mentioned above), and a delay time (in ms)
// between frames.
void theaterChase(uint32_t color, int wait) {
  for(int a=0; a<10; a++) {  // Repeat 10 times...
    for(int b=0; b<3; b++) { //  'b' counts from 0 to 2...
      strip.clear();         //   Set all pixels in RAM to 0 (off)
      // 'c' counts up from 'b' to end of strip in steps of 3...
      for(int c=b; c<strip.numPixels(); c += 3) {
        strip.setPixelColor(c, color); // Set pixel 'c' to value 'color'
      }
      strip.show(); // Update strip with new contents
      delay(wait);  // Pause for a moment
    }
  }
}

// Rainbow cycle along whole strip. Pass delay time (in ms) between frames.
void rainbow(int wait) {
  // Hue of first pixel runs 3 complete loops through the color wheel.
  // Color wheel has a range of 65536 but it's OK if we roll over, so
  // just count from 0 to 3*65536. Adding 256 to firstPixelHue each time
  // means we'll make 3*65536/256 = 768 passes through this outer loop:
  for(long firstPixelHue = 0; firstPixelHue < 3*65536; firstPixelHue += 256) {
    for(int i=0; i<strip.numPixels(); i++) { // For each pixel in strip...
      // Offset pixel hue by an amount to make one full revolution of the
      // color wheel (range of 65536) along the length of the strip
      // (strip.numPixels() steps):
      int pixelHue = firstPixelHue + (i * 65536L / strip.numPixels());
      // strip.ColorHSV() can take 1 or 3 arguments: a hue (0 to 65535) or
      // optionally add saturation and value (brightness) (each 0 to 255).
      // Here we're using just the single-argument hue variant. The result
      // is passed through strip.gamma32() to provide 'truer' colors
      // before assigning to each pixel:
      strip.setPixelColor(i, strip.gamma32(strip.ColorHSV(pixelHue)));
    }
    strip.show(); // Update strip with new contents
    delay(wait);  // Pause for a moment
  }
}

// Rainbow-enhanced theater marquee. Pass delay time (in ms) between frames.
void theaterChaseRainbow(int wait) {
  int firstPixelHue = 0;     // First pixel starts at red (hue 0)
  for(int a=0; a<30; a++) {  // Repeat 30 times...
    for(int b=0; b<3; b++) { //  'b' counts from 0 to 2...
      strip.clear();         //   Set all pixels in RAM to 0 (off)
      // 'c' counts up from 'b' to end of strip in increments of 3...
      for(int c=b; c<strip.numPixels(); c += 3) {
        // hue of pixel 'c' is offset by an amount to make one full
        // revolution of the color wheel (range 65536) along the length
        // of the strip (strip.numPixels() steps):
        int      hue   = firstPixelHue + c * 65536L / strip.numPixels();
        uint32_t color = strip.gamma32(strip.ColorHSV(hue)); // hue -> RGB
        strip.setPixelColor(c, color); // Set pixel 'c' to value 'color'
      }
      strip.show();                // Update strip with new contents
      delay(wait);                 // Pause for a moment
      firstPixelHue += 65536 / 90; // One cycle of color wheel over 90 frames
    }
  }
}

And here is our circuit diagram

Along with a few in-progress sketches and images

Dag Dag 🙂

sophia’s confirmed costume: SIMS!

Ana and I are creating a light up plumbob – aka the triangular form that hovers above the Sims characters head. Specifically, we will be going as the pleasant twins, Angela and Lilith. Our intention is to make people smile because I think the costume is clever and the Sims is a pretty nostalgic for many people.

I will be Lilith who is on the right!

I will be wearing a green sweater over a white turtleneck with pants because I don’t want to freeze my butt off in a skirt while outside haha. We will also both be getting red wigs to really complete the look for this costume.

In terms of the light up portion of the costume, it will be a plastic triangular form made of PET Blank Mylar Sheets. The pieces will be glued together into the form and filled with the programmed lights and some kind of filling like stuffing or sheets of tissue paper. We will then connect it to the headband with some sort of thick wire so it is wearable.

here is a template I found to help create the plumbob shape

Complete Material List:

  • Green sweater
  • White turtleneck
  • Red wig
  • Pants or skirt of some kind
  • White shoes
  • Headband
  • Wire
  • PET Blank Mylar Stencil Sheets
  • Super glue
  • Stuffing or tissue paper
  • Lights
  • Button
  • String

Links:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TYNSD4Y/ref=twister_B00TYNS628?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://a.co/d/bOAyRpb

Arduino Techniques:

We will be using a button so that when the button is pressed it changes the color of the triangle. In the sims game, the triangle color shows the characters current emotion so we will be able to cycle through a list of colors to show that. I am hoping to have the wire run out the back of the triangle and the button be located on the headband.

Circuit Diagram:

So I started doing the circuit diagram and I am honestly kind of confused. I understand the Ground and 5V on the light strip but I know we aren’t using our big Arduino board anymore so I’m not sure what that looks like. I know it will have a battery, a button, the lights, and some sort of program board I think the Gemma one we had in class… I will clarify this later.

To-Do List:

we still need to do pretty much everything… oops… but we have basically all the materials so we are ready to get started. the list is as follows…

– solder the lights

– program the lights

– construct and fill the triangle

– attach triangle to the head band

UPDATE:

things are happeningggg! first and foremost all non-light up parts of costume have been secured. wigs have been obtained and tried, headbands ordered, and outfits picked out. we also ordered longer cords to connect the plumbob to the battery pack while keeping the battery in our back pocket.

plumbob has been folded and is ready to be glued!

wire has been put through the headband! and plumbob will be secured on it

gemma board has been connected and wired to two neopixel strips that will be back to back inside the plumbob

here is also a close-up of the button which is also connected to the gemma but with a very long skinny wire so it can run out of the bottom plumbob, down the thick wire, and onto the headband to press which will trigger the colors

and here is the corrected circuit diagram with gemma, neopixels, and button. we have finished the button cycler code to run through our five colors which are triggered each time the button is pressed

and that’s all! very close to having it all assembled just fixing some issues

sophia’s halloween costume ideas

and some fun with arduino!

first off here are my arduino circuits working with the NeoPixel LED… I played with some different colors and modes

christmas vibes
party time
brat summer

next is my sketchbook page of my three halloween costume ideas. I put them all on one page cause I wanted to see each idea all at once. I didn’t go super in-depth for materials but I have a pretty good idea of what I would use for each. I also think I will make some more in-depth sketches once I pick one… and I think I like the first one the best 🙂

thanks for looking excited to start my costume!

sophia’s plush pumpkin light

say hello to my little friend… Spooki!!

Spooki is a plush jack-o-lantern night light that I created for this project. The target user is young kids of any gender ages 5-10 that like Halloween and stuffed animals (or if you are like me and still love stuffed animals it is for all ages hehe). Spooki is meant to sit on any surface and act as not only a fall decoration but a Halloween themed night light for kids. I hope that this night light makes kids feel safe in the dark but gives their room a cozy fall feeling.

To create this pumpkin plush I used a thick cotton orange fabric for the pumpkin body and a thinner light orange fabric for the cut outs of his jack-o-lantern face. The stem is a very thick brown denim material which I think makes it look much more realistic. Inside, of course, is the stuffing to make him soft and the circuit with three yellow bulbs covered in ping pong balls.

my circuit and corresponding diagram

I really enjoyed the process of sewing Spooki and I found that my sewing only improved as time went on. However, it was a very long process and there were many more pieces to it in the end than I expected going into this project.

sew sew sew sew sew sew sew sew sew sew sew sew sew sew sew…

started with 5 and decided I wanted more!

Spooki is made up of 9 leaf like shapes that are sewed together and then opened up almost like a beach ball. One thing that I tried that was new stitching on the small pieces of fabric that up make his face using small individual stiches that you can see. I wanted him to have a fall scarecrow vibe which I think I achieved.

comparing light under fabrics

My biggest challenge was apparently not making my knots big enough. I had a lot of stitches come out at the top and bottom so I ended up reinforcing it with a circle of fabric on both ends. It definitely helped with that issue and made the whole thing look much cleaner.

jack-o-lantern face coming together

If I had more time I would have loved to make him bigger and put more stuffing in it. I think he is the perfect size for a desk night light but he turned out much smaller than I pictured. But he is Spooki, and Spooki is perfect.

sophia’s plush night light proposal

for my in class prototype I decided to try and make a rounded star with a different piece of fabric on the front and back. One side is a soft t-shirt material and the other is brown denim. I call him fraken-star because he definitely could use some work. I know for this next prototype that my stitches need to be closer together and I need to work on closing up the whole at the end

my yellow bulb circuit 🙂

here are my initial 3 ideas for this plush night light idea. ultimately I decided to go with the jack-o-lantern because fall is on its way 🙂 when thinking of ideas I wanted something that lights up but I wanted it to be a little bit more creative. my first thought was a jack-o-lantern with a candle inside because it glows!

the target audience for this plushie is young kids of any gender ages 5-10 who enjoy fall, halloween and stuffed animals (or if you are like me and still love stuffed animals this is for all ages hehe)

the materials I plan to use are orange fabric for the pumpkin itself, brown for the stem, and either black, brown, or even a lighter orange for the face to make it seem like its glowing from within! I will use needle and thread to sew all the parts together. inside there will be stuffing and a circuit that I create with two or three lights either yellow, orange, or maybe one of each

can’t wait to get started and see how it turns out 😀

Bowers and Wilkins headphones

I chose to tear down a pair of Bowers and Wilkins headphones! here I included an image of them brand new from online because I got too excited to rip it apart and forgot t0 take a before picture. here they are 🙂

Tools and Techniques

I found that I used my hands for most of this process but used a few tools to aid in taking things apart. Looking back the only tools that I used were my hands, an x-acto blade, and the smallest screw driver I could find. My goal was to separate the headphones so every thing I removed was one single piece, and I wanted to do so without having to break anything.

Because I was able to use my hands for most of this demolition most of my technique was really pulling on things to see if they would come apart.

I started off almost immediately by using an x-acto blade to seam rip the stitching on the leather that covered the headband. After that it became much easier to deconstruct what was inside the headband. After that I worked on it piece by piece and when I got stuck I moved onto a different section. Usually taking apart one section ended up helping me break free another piece

timelapse of me working!

The only part that I used the screw driver for was inside the ear cushion and the ear cups themselves. In here, there were parts of plastic that were screwed down to hide the battery and the motherboard. Other than that I worked through the whole thing using my hands and the x-acto blade to pry things apart. This is a small timelapse of me working and moving around a lot from part to part. After trying to get the whole headphone wire out I realized it was much further in than I thought and then my screw driver was too big. It was a lot of trial and error but I really did enjoy the process

a look at the inside of the ear cup with the speaker

Materials

headband:

  • leather
  • foam
  • metal headband base
  • headphone cable
  • rubber

ear cups:

  • motherboard
  • metal
  • wires
  • battery
  • plastic
  • screws
  • speaker
  • foam
  • leather
  • magnets
  • rubber
all of the different pieces in a big pile 🙂

Manufacturing Techniques

There are a few steps in the manufacturing process of over the ear headphones

Selection of materials

  • Plastics are used for the outer casing due to their lightweight and moldability
  • Metals such as aluminum and stainless steel are for structural components, providing strength and durability
  • Foams and Fabrics are for ear pads and headbands to ensure comfort
  • Magnets and Voice Coils are key components in the drivers that convert electrical signals into sound

    Manufacturing the Components

    • Driver Assembly: The driver is the heart of the headphone, consisting of a diaphragm, voice coil, and magnet
    • Molding and Casting: The plastic and metal parts are molded and cast into the required shapes using injection molding and die-casting techniques
    • Circuit Board Production: The electronic components, including the circuit board, are manufactured and tested

    Assembly

    • Drivers are carefully installed into the ear cups
    • Internal wiring connects the drivers to the audio jack or wireless module
    • The outer casing is assembled, and ear pads and headbands are attached
    • Each unit undergoes rigorous testing for sound quality, durability, and functionality. This includes acoustic testing, drop tests, and stress tests

        https://app.t2.world/article/cly2xko3f96701520mcbiqsjtvc

        Knolling

        This was by far my favorite part of the process. After I finished tearing the headphones apart I dumped the pieces out of my bag and got to work!

        final teardown!

        Design Elements

        One design element I really liked was that the leather ear cushion and plastic ear cup each had strong magnets that allowed them to stick together well but also be pulled apart fairly easily if needed. I have never owned a pair of over the ear headphones before so I don’t know if this is a common feature but I’ve seen other headphone users have to peel off the cushion to get it off, which makes it harder to put back on in my opinion. I think Bowers and Wilkins made it this way so that the leather could be easily replaced when it wears down and the inside mechanisms could be easily accessed if the headphones need repairs.

        Another design element that intrigued me was the metal engraved indication of the left and the right headphones. On most headphones now a days it is written somewhere on the cushion or cup but these had a tiny separate metal piece on the metal base that said L and R. When taking it apart I thought it was interesting that these were two cylinders that could be separated from the whole form. The reason for the left and right indication is so the user can hear the stereo properly. The sound is frequently captured with two or more microphones, each of which captures a different segment of the audio, so you need the headphones on the right way otherwise all the sounds will be reversed.