Completed the single-button LED cycling function for Momo bot’s face.

Started building the initial prototype for the Momo bot’s head.

Task List:

• Soldering: Complete the main LED pad.
• Modeling: Add final details to the Momo bot’s head.
• Assembly: Install the head’s bonding structure.
• Finishing: Apply color to the head.
• Electronics: Swap the Arduino Uno with the Gemma board.
• Final Assembly: Mount the LEDs and Gemma inside the head model.

‘Mine-crafted life’

Recap with updates

The severed Minecraft head is a prop for a halloween costume, acting like a trick or treat basket. Constructed from 1/4″ white translucent acrylic sheets, the head is painted with the signature pixelated aesthetic and features 2 internal RGBW LED Neopixel sticks placed in the center of the cube, covered with an opaque material (like chipboard) on the top and bottom faces. The primary function is to express four distinct “moods”—Angry (red light), Sad (blue light), Disgust (green light), and Happy (yellow light)—by dynamically shifting the color of the internal lighting. The basket includes a red handle and a “severed neck” base, with black paint for the eyes and mouth, ensuring both visual impact and a clear pathway for the light to shine through. The shades of the pixels are created by painting multiple coats of acrylic paint on the surface to help create a opaque and translucent light dispersal. The updated size for the cube is 8″x8″, with 1″x1″ pixels.

Updated Materials List

• 1/4″ white translucent acrylic sheet – For the main structure, laser cut to make a 8×8″ cube. I will purchase this from the VFL once the laser cutting machine is functional on Friday.
• (2) RGBW LED Neopixel Sticks – I had one in my kit, borrowed another one from Jay.
• Poly-fill – To disperse the light inside the cube, already there in my kit.
• Adafruit Gemma board – Already there in my kit.
• Electrical wires – Already there in my kit.
• USB Battery Pack – Already there in my kit.
• Acrylic paint – To paint the pixels on the surface of the sheet and create tonality. I have some at home, will get more from Michaels if needed.
• Solder – From the VFL.

Tools

• Laser cutter (The filtration system of the laser cutter is currently down, it will be replaced on Thursday, I can cut out the structure on Friday. I thought of cutting the acrylic using an acrylic cutter but I have been advised against that by the VFL because of the thickness of the acrylic.)
• Soldering Iron (Available in the VFL)
• Acrylic joining solvent (Available in the VFL)
• Wire strippers (Available in the VFL)
• Wire snips (Available in the VFL)
• X-acto knife (I have my own)
• Acrylic cutter (Available in the VFL)

Progress

• 3D model for box using https://www.makercase.com/basicBox

Making a 4 sides box frame in acrylic with finger joints, the top and bottom will be covered with chipboard with a grey scale pixel pattern.

Laser cutting file is ready.

• Tinkering with the Arduino code

TinkerCAD circuit with my code on it

I made the circuit public but it is showing pending on TinkerCAD.

To-Do list

• Test light dispersion on small pieces of acrylic to see light and shadows with white paint
• Make components
• Final Arduino code
• Laser cutting of structure
• Solder the Neopixel sticks to each other
• Load code on Gemma
• Assembly

Thank you!

ThinkCAD & Arduino video link:

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/c0ao1gyHsN3-spectacular-crift

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1cQIgQ42XmMttT54Uchr8u547O072Qw93?usp=share_link

Matrial:

headband, foam, and hot glue for cat ear
white fabric and see-through fabric for the main body part
black fabric for the tail part
black fabric and white thread for fish bone
neopixel, gemma, and power bank for light part

Next:

Fix the cat ears in place, get a model to help me mark and cut the eye holes, trim off the extra hem, and attach the tail.
Install the light section.
Use an embroidery machine to stitch the design onto the black fabric, sew it up, and then fill it with stuffing.

Process:

Description: Flux Capacitor

I will be constructing a replica of the Flux Capacitor prop from Back to the Future. It will be the main element in my Marty McFly costume. The purpose of this prop is to promote delight with a touch of nostalgia.

Circuit Diagram

Tinkercad Link
I am trying to figure out my circuit diagram, but need some assistance. This is where I have gotten to so far.

To Do:
– Add push button to cycle through 2-3 different light sequences
– Update light sequences (elaboration in Arduino section below)

Arduino

Pseudocode:
1. Mechanical button input activated
2. 3 Yellow Neopixel LED strips slow chasing sequence (from outside to inside)
3. The mechanical button is pushed to initiate the next light sequence in the cycle
4. Three Yellow Neopixel LED strips fast chasing sequence (from outside to inside)
5. The mechanical button is pushed to initiate the next light sequence in the cycle
6. Three Yellow Neopixel LED strips, fast blinking
7. Mechanical button pushed to turn off (or can I make it so that holding button for a determined amount of time turns off)?

Materials/Parts

Hardware
– 3 Neopixels (8 LEDs per strip)
– Gemma (have)
– Breadboard Wires (have)
– USB battery pack (have)

Other Supplies
– Solder (have)
– Stranded Wire (have)
– Cardboard Box (similar shape, hinging)
– Spray paint (dark gray)
– Transparent film
– Clear vinyl tubing (determine interior diameter to fit Neopixel into)
– Large flat washers (try to find sold individually)
– Red lable tape
-Spark plug wires (kind of $$$, maybe find alt)
– Paint for spark plug (orange, yellow)

Tools
– Soldering Iron
– Wire Snips
– Wire Strippers
– Hot glue
– Super Glue (best kind?)
– Box Cutter
– Label Maker
– Drill
– 3D printer (optional if spark plugs don’t work out)

To-Do List

1. Complete circuit diagram
2. Figure out Arduino code
3. Purchase supplies after 1:1 meeting (Neopixels and finding correct box size are priority)
5. Map out box with 1:1 scale to ensure fit
4. Once circuit diagram has been finalized solder Neopixels to Gemma

Progress

Manya’s Flux Capacitor Pt 2

PROGRESS

• Working on Button Cycler code
• Bought supplies (transparent window, chain, tubing, hose, 3 NeoPixel strips)

TINKERCAD

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/hiz9I9xFeLC-flux-capacitor1?sharecode=cMn7V532x1lQbqBToTnFhIq-Ds7HJIDHxTYsmUuGKeo

Having some trouble simulating button cycling.

TO BUY/SOURCE

• Spark plugs or metal elbow fittings
• Yellow latex tubing
• Spray paint (look to see if PoD has gold)
• Confirm Tristan has label maker/red or gold labels

TO DO

BOX

• [ ] Create box dielines based on Neopixel size
• [ ] Make box out of chipboard (cut by hand if no laser cutter)
  • [ ] Figure out where to put button hole
• [ ] Create false bottom of box with holes cut out for wires, top surfaces is where components will attach, below false bottom is where hardware is housed
• [ ] Spray paint box/false bottom metallic (silver or gold)
• [ ] Attach transparent sheet to back of window on the front of the box

HARDWARE

• [ ] Solder wire to 3 NeoPixel strips
• [ ] Solder wires (from NeoPixel strips) to Gemma
• [ ] Solder tactile button to Gemma

ATTACHMENT

• [ ] Attach washers (spray paint gold) to surface
• [ ] Place/attach NeoPixel strips in clear tubing
• [ ] Attach spark plugs/tubes to washers
• [ ] Place Gemma and USB battery pack underneath false bottom
• [ ] Place button into hole on side of box

FINALIZE

• [ ] Attach false bottom to box via adhesive
• [ ] Figure out if I want to add latch to box
• [ ] Attach tubing to box exterior
• [ ] Attach chain/handle to box, potential spray paint gold (if I decide to paint box gold)

SOFTWARE

• [ ] Finalize Button Cycler code

QUESTIONS

• Should I create a flap on back of box to access hardware?
• How much wire do I need to attach NeoPixels on surface of false bottom to Gemma at bottom of box?

Manya’s Flux Capacitor Pt 3

PROGRESS

• Spray-painted components (washers, spark plugs, tubing,
• Laser-cut chipboard
• Sealed chipboard (PVA (light layer of white glue) + water (1:1 mix))
• Folded box into 3D form, used a mixture of adhesives (Tacky glue, Tombow Extreme Adhesive)
• Gold spray paint (3 coats)
• Soldered circuit (Gemma M0, stranded wire, tactile button, 3 Neopixels (RGBW Natural White, 8 LEDS)
• Tested circuit using Arduino Sample button cycler and strand test
• Finalized Arduino code and Tinkercad

TO DO

• Attach chain handle (still figuring this out)
• Attach wires/tubes to spark plugs
• Fix component adhesions (try hot glue)
• Final spray paint layer over attached parts
  
• Black nail polish over Neopixel components
• Test final Arduino code with final circuit
  
• Protect circuitry prior to inserting/attaching to box?
• Insert circuit into box (Neopixels into tubing)
• Attach circuitry and hardware to box (how does the button
  
• Attach screen to box window
• Make and attach label (thank you Tristan)

LEARNINGS

• Figure out how to order progress (spray paint components after adhering?)
• Test circuit while soldering in order to problem solve if things go wrong (this didn’t happen to me, but noted for future, thank you Wini)
• The insert should be smaller than the box it is intended to fit into (see dielines below), making it work this time

Description of ‘Mine-crafted life’

The severed Minecraft head is a prop for a halloween costume, acting like a trick or treat basket. Constructed from acrylic/polyethylene/polypropylene sheets, the head is painted with the signature pixelated aesthetic and features internal RGBW LED strips sandwiched between inner and outer walls. The primary function is to express four distinct “moods”—Angry (red light), Sad (blue light), Disgust (green light), and Happy (yellow light)—by dynamically shifting the color of the internal lighting. The basket includes a red handle and a “severed neck” base, with black paint for the eyes and mouth, ensuring both visual impact and a clear pathway for the light to shine through. The shades of the pixels are created by painting multiple coats of acrylic paint on the surface to help create a opaque and translucent light dispersal.

Intention of ‘Mine-crafted life’

The prop’s intention is to blend the nostalgia of my brother and my shared love for Minecraft with a playful Halloween fright. By presenting the instantly recognizable Creeper head in a dark context—a “severed neck” basket—it introduces a darkly humorous twist on a beloved game element. The dynamic, shifting NeoPixel lights (from “angry” red to “sad” blue) use in-game visuals to create an eerie, mood-depicting glow, transforming our childhood interests into a uniquely personal and subtly unsettling costume piece.

Arduino techniques to be used

Using the colorWipe or crossFade function in Arduino to help transition between the 4 RGBW colors in the NeoPixel.

Materials and parts

• Translucent white Acrylic/Polyethylene/Polypropylene sheet (As the main material for the basket, its handle and neck.) – I’m having a little trouble finding Polypropylene sheets in the translucency, size and thickness that would be suitable for the 12″ x 12″ size of the basket head. Here’s a few links of what I found:
  1. Polypropylene sheets (TAP plastics) –
  Tap Plastics link
  (This seems like a clear sheet, I was going for a white translucent sheet)
  
  2. Polypropylene sheets (Amazon) –
  Amazon Link
  (The size limitation is 12″ x12″, I might need a bigger size for making the handle and top frame to cover the walls. If I get this, I will have to join multiple pieces together)
  
  3. Polyethylene sheets HDPE Plastic Sheet Board (Amazon) –
  Amazon Link
  (I read that this material also has similar translucency and light dispersion properties as acrylic, but seems a little expensive for the size I want)
  
  4. Acrylic sheets (Canal Plastics) –
  Canal Plastics Link
  (This seems okay to me, alternatively I could get the acrylic from the VFL and be careful not to break it)
  
• RGBW LED Strips – I was planning on getting either 8 shorter strips or 2 long ones that can span the entire cube.
  
• Poly-fill – To disperse the light well in between the inner and outer walls of the cube.
  
• Adafruit Gemma board – If its possible to link 2 separate LEDs to one board, I intend on doing that, otherwise, I will get another Gemma board.
  
• Breadboard + Electrical wires
  
• USB Battery Pack
  
• Acrylic paint – To paint the pixels on the surface of the sheet and create tonality.
  
• Solder

Tools

• Laser cutter
• Soldering Iron
• Hot glue gun
• Wire strippers
• Wire snips
• X-acto knife

To-Do list

• Figure out number and specifications of LED strips needed
• Finalise circuit diagram
• Tinker with Arduino code to get my color-changing motion
• Finalize on material for the main structure
• Test light dispersion on small pieces of acrylic to see light and shadows with white paint
• Make 3D model for idea, to ease construction
• Illustrator file for laser cutting
  

Thank you!

Story

I had an 11th hour change of heart, and felt inspired to make something more challenging than my previous idea. I originally thought of making myself into a giant walking camera–the housing would be around my waist and I pictured a neopixel ring for the perimeter of the lens, with a few white LEDs acting as the flash to go off at timed intervals.

But then I had the idea to make a Visual Rain Stick. My thought is to have the LEDs travel down inside a hollowed out wood tube with chamfered edges, sparkling as they go, through sporadically placed drilled out holes. My goal is to create a visual embodiment of an audial product. I’m opting for warm white lights to compliment the wood (which I plan to finish in a rich, potentially darker tone), and to give it a more natural feel. For the light sequencing I’ll be utilizing the falling, wipe and twinkle animations in my Arduino code.

Parts List

Adafruit Mini Skinny NeoPixel LED Strip – Warm White 3000K – 60 LEDs/m – 1m long, Anker PowerCore 5,000mAh Portable Charger, 470Ω resistor, 1000µF capacitor, ~2″ x 36″ pinewood strip, Poly or paint to finish the wood.

Build Plan

Cut (2) 1″ x 40″ wood panels

Dado cut a 1/2″ channel in each

4″ dado cut at one end of each to accommodate the power bank (+ 4mm)

Drill holes along panels

Build circuit

Hot glue LED strip along dado

Glue wood halves together

Poly or paint to finish

Circuit

(Still in progress!)

• Include a description of your costume and its intention: 

My love for orange tabby cats drew me to the character Momo from the video game Stray. I believe he embodies the enduring spirit of a cat lover—a spirit that continues to love and be with cats no matter what. Inspired by this, I’m recreating his adorable monitor face for a costume, aiming for a look that is charming, heartwarming, and has a unique tropical feel.

• What Arduino technique(s) you are using

My next step is to program Arduino the interaction between buttons and an Adafruit NeoPixel LED.

• Include photos of your progress:

• Materials and parts you’re using (should be as complete a list as possible, with links to sources)

1. BTF-LIGHTING WS2812B RGB 5050SMD Individually Addressable Digital 16×16 256 Pixels 6.3in x 6.3in LED Matrix Flexible FPCB Dream Full Color Works with SP802E Controller Image Video Text Display DC5V
2. BTF-LIGHTING WS2812B IC RGB 5050SMD Pure Gold Individual Addressable LED Strip 16.4FT 300LED 60Pixel/m Flexible Full Color IP30 DC5V for DIY Chasing Color Project(No Adapter or Controller)
3. Cardboard
4. Acrylic board

• Write a to-do list of the remaining tasks required to finish your costume

1. Finishing coding
2. Creating Laser cutting files.
3. Laser cutting Momo’s head
4. Combination laser cutting components
5. Adding Arduino and LED .

1.Concept

I will make a “Bai Wuchang” costume: a white tall hat + cape + mask (with a long red tongue).
The mood is an eerie, ritual style from Chinese/Eastern culture.

During the parade at night, a cool-white breathing light will run along the hat brim and the inner edge of the cape, so from far away it looks like a silent underworld procession.
A faint red glow will come from the mask’s mouth.

I plan to use EVA foam inside the tall hat and at the tip of the long tongue to keep the shape.

2.Arduino part

I plan to use two long NeoPixel LED strips to make a white breathing effect, and one separate LED ring behind the mask for a red glow. (If it’s too expensive, I’ll remove the NeoPixel strip along the cape edge lol)

3.Next Steps (To-Do)

（1）Measure my shoulder width/length and head circumference.
（2）Draw flat pattern pieces for the tall hat, cape, and long tongue.
（3）Cut fabric along the pattern lines.
（4）Decide the circuit diagram and how everything connects to one power switch; plan the wire routing inside the hat/cape/mask.
（5）Cut the EVA foam pieces (hat lining, tongue tip/core).
（6）Choose the final mask material, then buy it.
（7）Make the mask shape: cut eye and mouth openings.
（8）Sew each part (hat, cape, tongue), then join the parts.
（9）Install the LED strips/ring and diffusers, secure wires, and test.
（10）Upload code, test breathing white and red glow, and do a fit check.