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Rey’s character is one I not only look up to but also identify with personality-wise. Her costume was harder to put together than I thought, I bought muslin, leather straps, ace bandage, and brown boots as her accessories (and used some of them for the light saber handle). But because it was cold, I had to resort to long sleeves and layers which I left took away from the actual look.

As for the light saber, there was a ton of trial and errors, prototyping, and testing for both the light part and the handle part. A couple things that I felt I had to compromise on:
Process photos:













Arduino code:






For my halloween costume, I am inspired by Peking Opera. I think it is incredible to see how different opera mask represents each roles’ characteristic, specifically through the use of colors and patterns. Nowadays, traditional opera are still very popular and beloved by younger generations, some hotpot restaurant also integrated opera shows as a part of the dinning experience. I really wanted my costume to emphasize my culture and background, so I decided to make a matching set of Peking Opera’s mask accessory.



I painted a couple layers of white paint first, and sketched out the contour where I will be filling in colors. To make the mask look neat, I went in again with a smaller brush and white paint to clean up the edges.



My initial idea was adding on a wig to the mask so that it feels more creepy, so I poked holes around the mask, and sewed the wig onto the mask. However, it does not turn out how I imagined, so I decided to remove the wig.


I made a small pouch to store batteries, and sewed it onto the hat.



Instead of the wig idea, my plan B is to sew the mask onto the back of a hat, and to prevent the threads getting loose in the middle of the parade, I added a little bit of hotglue.



I really want the light to be very bright, so I used thin muslin fabric to diffuse the light. I wrapped the fabric around the light and hotglued it.



This is the second mask, the patterns symbolizes tiger, my zodiac animal. it will be a “crossbody mask”. So I decided to poke two holes for the strap to go through. One thing that would be cool to improve on that Becky mentioned is to make a bigger pouch behind the mask and turn it into a functional purse.




Code & Circuit diagram:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jpkohiqZ8Te
List of materials:
Ultra Skinny Neopixel x2 https://www.adafruit.com/product/4368
Gemma x2 https://www.adafruit.com/product/3501
AAA Battery pack
Mask x2 https://www.dickblick.com/products/creativity-street-pulp-masks/
Shoelace x1
Red acrylic paint x1
Muslin fabric
PRESS! (FROM THE AMAZING PARADE, ON NY DAILY NEWS)

INTRODUCTION/INSPIRATION
For the 2021 Halloween Parade I was Qui-Gon Jinn (Liam Neeson’s character) from Star Wars.


Why this costume?
I decided to do Qui-Gon Jinn, since I am a huge Star Wars fan and his character is (SPOILER) unfortunately short-lived, but definitely impactful. When I was a young kid, I would always watch Star Wars Episode 1 with my mom and Qui-Gon was her favorite character. He was a great mentor, and a Jedi career highlight was finding Anakin (for better or worse).
How was it to wear?
Overall, the costume was great to wear, as it was just a super long Star Wars robe. I purchased it from Party City — as making the lightsaber from lathe to hardware and software was a tall task — but still tailored it so that the hems fit me well, the hood wasn’t absurdly long, and so it closed with velcro (thanks Marko!).
PROCESS
What I learned in the process
Make more lightsabers! Getting it perfect is difficult, but definitely a gratifying process. I’m glad with the way mine turned out, especially since I gave it a bit of a twist. In making my saber, I was using Qui-Gonn’s as a template, but in early iterations I added/subtracted various elements. Here are some photos of different handles/finishes.

Step-by-step


2. After the lathe, I primed the saber and let it dry over night. Then, I drilled various holes through the middle of the saber (from top to bottom), with the final being about 3/8″ thick.

3. From there, I found what finish I wanted on the saber and actually switched from a black gloss to a black “wood stain.”


4. Then, I ran to Canal Plastics with the lightsaber crew (Cathy, Erika and Liam) for frosted polycarbonate tubing and drafting sheets. These were the LED casing and diffusion for the saber.

5. After, I refined the code and fed everything through the handle for it to be soldered, including the button.



6. Lastly, I assembled it and had some fun!


Thank you Becky for the amazing night and guidance!

Circuit Diagram and Code:






For my halloween costume, I am going to make a Opera mask accessory. I painted the mask with a white base, and the three main colors that I will be using is black, white, and red. I am going to fill in the black, and add more layers so the paint do not sheer, next, I’ll touch up with white paint, and probably apply gloss coat. I also ordered a wig which I’ll attach it to the back of the mask to make it feel more creepy.


I wanted the light to represent tears so I made the delay pretty short, and the light will light up from top to bottom on a loop, and the color changes every round. Since the mask is only in white, red, and black. I am still exploring the right color combination to make it feel coherent.
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jpkohiqZ8Te
Next step:
-Solder the light to gemma & battery.
-Continue to work on the mask
-Adjust the brightness of the light (top=dim top= bright)
-Attach the wig to the mask
-Attach a strap on the mask so it could be carried as a “crossbody bag”.
Process
Step 1 – Prepare all the materials(Use Arduino to instead of Gemma during testing level)

Step 2 – Wire length measurement and soldering

Step 3 – Try coding(working in progress, will update to the post later today!)

Material List

Wow, this is my third time changing Star Wars characters. Last week I mentioned that I was doing Obi-Wan, but I officially changed to Qui-Gon. After speaking with everyone, this one makes most sense — I have long hair, my favorite color is green (for the lightsaber), and the brown robe is perfect.
In terms of lightsabers, I currently have two different prototypes that I’m considering. Both were made on the lathe and will be spray painted black and silver for accents.
Here’s a progress shot of my Arduino and NeoPixel in the lightsaber.

Aside from that, I’m using some black washers, black and silver rust-o-leum spray paint, and polycarbonate tubing (that I will purchase from Canal Plastics with the lightsaber crew — Erika, Cathy and Liam).
Overall, this project has been super fun and drilling though the lightsaber was a lot less intimidating/difficult than I thought.

I got two types of red coloured papers from Blick to experiment with my roses for Frida’s famous headdress. One is a easier to manipulate and create a more realistic looking rose but does not provide enough penetration of light. The other one is made out of a gel sheet and does not fold that easily but might look nicer at night with the LEDs on.












After serious deliberations over who makes the most sense playing each character, and the addition of Kristina to our costume group, I have decided to switch my role from Qui-Gon Jinn, to Luke Skywalker in “Return of the Jedi.”
The intention of this project is to bring back to life my childhood wonder in fantasy that is Star Wars. We have grouped up in order to portray multiple characters in order to world build. We will also be choreographing a fight scene for the parade.

For the outfit bottom I’ll be toting black rain boots and slim black pants. For the top I will be wearing a black long sleeve shirt and a black Nuru vest that own from India. I will also be raiding my moms closet for a chunky black belt.

The first object as the part of my “Luke” costume is the lightsaber. I am about half to completing the handle, which I have carved into a wooden dowel using the workshop Lathe. I need to make the indented ribbing as well as cut off the top and bottom base used for securing it in the Lathe.
After the design is done, I will bore a 1/4″ hole thru the center of the handle allowing for the wires to run from the NeoPixel strip in the sword, to the battery at the bottom.
For the light part of the sword I will be using a clear polycarbonate tube 1″ in diameter and cutting it down to about 28″. I have bought a sheet of somewhat opaque “drafting paper” which I will roll up and slide into the piece of tubing. This will diffuse the light and give the sense that my lightsaber is actually glowing!




Other materials needed for the lightsaber: