Wemo Maker F7C043 Tear Down

For this exciting assignment, I’m tearing down the Wemo Maker. It looks like a WIFI Extender but it’s actually a device for smart home integration. It allows DIY enthusiasts to remotely control low-voltage devices through an app, such as blinds, sprinklers, powered gates, etc.

Here is a list of tools I used and the process:

1, Wire cutter (failed):

The casing of this device consists of a box and a cover plate with no screws on it. So, I first tried using a wire cutter to cut open the casing, but the plastic had become brittle, and I could only cut off the edges.

2, Drill:

Then I tried using a power drill to make holes onto the casing so that I would have a place to pry it open. After succeeding, I found that the cover plate was glued into a precise slot in the casing, making the device appear seamless and preventing people from opening it.

3, Utility knife:

The PCB board and some wires were fixed inside the box with hot glue, and I used a utility knife to separate them. (I was surprised that they use hot glue. Such a convenient way, isn’t it?)

4, Hex screwdriver:

Next, I removed the screws that were securing the PCB board to the casing.

5, Hands:

I pulled some wires connected to the board by hand. This step was easy.

6, Wire cutter again:

Since some electronic components were soldered onto the board, wire cutters were perfect for cutting off their pins.

And here is the knolling outcome!!

The material is listed below:

PARTMATERIAL
casingplastic (PC or ABS, not sure)
cover plateplastic (PC or ABS, not sure)
PCB boardfiberglass
LED lightsgallium arsenide
relay contactscopper
switchesABS
screwssteel
light conductorABS
UFL connectorbrass, stainless steel, PTFE
cablesilver-plated copper, PVC
Manufacturer and part numberDATASHEET
A: ACON micro USB C connector(unknown)
B: PIC16F1824 low voltage ICSP™ method Microchiphttps://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/348744/MICROCHIP/PIC16F1824.html
C: Relay contacts & Sensor contacts(unknown)
D: HongFa HF3FA: subminiature high-power relayhttps://source.hongfa.com//pdf/web/viewer.html?file=/Uploads/Product/PDF/HF3FA_HF3FA-T_en.pdf?timestamp=1725733481
E: 49A9 Resistor(unknown)
Manufacturer and part numberDATASHEET
F: Winbond 25Q128FVSGhttps://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/506517/WINBOND/25Q128FVSG.html
G: Ralink RT5350F SoChttps://www.datasheets.com/part-details/rt5350f-mediatek-73807877
H: 2R2 Resistor(unknown)

To be continued:) Or maybe not;)

Canon DS126251 camera teardown

ONE: Disassembling Process & Documenting process

Before & After:)

So it started with removing something that doesn’t need a screwdriver, here they are ⬇️

Lens, Memory card, A piece of rubber

Then I got 2 simple small screwdrivers tools and started trying disassemble the camera with them⬇️

The problem at first⬇️

1. Too hard to unscrew then I messed up the screws. 2. Didn’t find the hiding sneaky screws🥲🥲🤬

So should I just break it from now⬆️?

But I decided not to break them yet

So I opened the middle part FINALLY!

Then 7 hrs disassembling started…⬇️

Yay! keep messing up the screws and keep adding tools to this whole process.

Some progress⬇️

It was actually pretty satisfying when I saw I there were more and more parts coming off.

Then I decided to take a dinner break🤭🤫🤪⬇️

Kept going ⬇️

Was getting late ⬇️

Was me in the studio at 9:30pm, but it was almost there😎

Then finally! It was 10:24pm

Yea, nice to meet you in this way, Canon:)

TWO: Parts

1.Surfaces and screws

2. Front screen and front bottoms

3. viewfinder and lens connecting parts

3. Exterior and led screen penal on the top

4. Everything in the middle and chips

THREE: Materials & Manufacturing

A lot of Google works here⬇️

Part/piecematerialmanufacturing tech applied
Body and Frame MaterialsMagnesium AlloyCNC Machining
Aluminum AlloyDie Casting and Forging,
Glass Fiber Reinforced Polycarbonate ResinAnodizing
Internal Components/ChipsCopper and Gold AlloysSurface-Mount Technology
Stainless SteelInjection Molding
Plastics/RubberInjection Molding
Lens Mounts and ContactsStainless Steel
BrassPrecision Machining
Gold-Plated ContactsGold Plating
Shutter and Mirror MechanismCarbon Fiber Reinforced MaterialsLaser Cutting and Micro-Machining, High-Speed Actuation Mechanisms
SteelInjection Molding
AluminumHigh-Speed Actuation Mechanisms
LCD Screen and Viewfinder MaterialsGorilla GlassPrecision Glass Molding
Tempered Glass, Optical Glass Multi-Coating Techniques
PlasticInjection Molding
Exterior Surface Finish and CoatingRubberized CoatingThermal Spraying
Anodized or Powder CoatingPowder Coating
Sealing and ProtectionRubberOver-Molding Technology
Silicone SealsGasket Compression Sealing
Sensor and Electronic ComponentsSilicon, Copper WiringPhotolithography, Etching and Deposition, Backside Illumination (BSI) Technology, High-Density Interconnect (HDI) PCBs, System-on-Chip (SoC) Design
Optical Engineering and Glass ManufacturingAspherical Lens ElementsPrecision Glass Molding
Ultra-Low Dispersion (UD) and Fluorite Elements Multi-Coating Techniques

Four: Culculating

Achievements…⬇️

Nikon AF 600 Point n Shoot Teardown!

My teardown process at the VFL makerspace

Let’s take a look at my Nikon AF 600 point-and-shoot teardown. This is a compact point-and-shoot camera equipped with a 28mm f/3.5 lens. I’m a huge fan of film cameras so this is super exciting for me to see the inside of this semi-ancient tool. And surprise – it’s way more complicated than I thought!

For the teardown, I used simple tools – 2 small crosshead screwdrivers, and a tweezer plier.

The teardown process is pretty easy. I took the screws off each layer first and separated the plastic parts to expose the next layer of screws until all components were torn down.

Now let’s take a look at a knolling picture of all the components.

The camera is made out of 5 main parts – the skeleton, the motor (that controls the loading of the film roll), 2 circuit boards (one controls the motor, one main board for light sensing, focus detecting, lens control, and communication with the motor board), and the lens.

The skeleton of the camera is made out of plastic. The motor gear is mainly made of plastic while joined with the skeleton with small metal bars. The motor itself is built with 2 metal parts. The lens is a combination of plastic, metal, and glass. All components in the camera were joined together using screws or glue (for batteries and flex circuits), and the communication between the electronic parts is through thin flex circuit belts and thin wires.

Given the size of the screws and how each layer inside the camera is bonded in a super clean and compact way, I doubt this camera was made on a streamlined machine. The skeleton is likely to be made in specially designed molds and put together with all other components by hand.

Take a look from another angle at the components

Because this camera was made in 1993 when the internet was still young, I can’t find any information regarding any of the chip/motor numbers on the camera. Based on my knowledge of the camera, I suppose the chip on the main circuit board numbered “S2914 A1F10 156” is the chip for light sensing and focus control, the most technical and complicated function for the camera. Another number I found was on the motor “A3311” and “3226D”. No records were found on the internet, but these 2 motors combined with each other load and rotate the film roll in the camera.

One really interesting design I found was how the flex circuit belt goes through 3 layers of the camera skeleton. This design achieve a few things – first, the circuit belt needs to reach to several electric components which are located top and bottom, left and right of the camera, the length of the it becomes a weakness of the thin belt, but securing it in-between layers adds extra strength to combat this problem; second, it allows the circuit belt to utilize empty space on each layer it goes through, while it’s glued to the empty spaces, we don’t need designated area to secure the circuit belt; third, this layout also avoids direct overlap of the circuit belt so camera program is likely to be more stable.

Another interesting design is how the motor gear is spread across the bottom of the camera. This design allows the two motors to line up in different directions while still be able to lock into/respond to each other’s movements, it also makes the camera thinner (in width), so it’s easier to be carried around.

Motor gear at the bottom of the camera

That’s it for this round of teardown! I really had fun digging into this ancient tool for photographs. Enjoy more photos of my tear down process below.

Samsung Laptop Teardown

For this teardown project, I used a 2012 Samsung laptop. This is exciting because to me, a 12 year old laptop feels quite retro. Since computers have been around for almost 50 years, this device represents an important part of that history. Let’s take a deeper look at what’s inside this decade-old laptop.

Here is what the laptop looks like after teardown:

Here is the tool I used for disassembly:

Phillips screwdriver to remove nails.

Scissors to remove connecting wires.

A flat-blade screwdriver to pry open the device casing.

Now, let’s take a look at my disassembly process:

First: Open the bottom case of the laptop.

Second: Remove the battery and motherboard, speaker.

Third: Remove the black tape which covering on the keyboard base.

Fourth: Disassemble the keyboard, control panel, computer case and base.

Fifth: Remove the display from the computer case.

Commonents and Function, Manufacturing Process:

Laptop Cover: Plastic, The cover protects the laptop’s screen from physical damage, dust, and spills when the laptop is closed. It also shields the internal components from external elements.

For Manufacturing, for plastic covers, raw plastic pellets are heated and injected into the mold under high pressure. The plastic cools and solidifies into the shape of the cover.

Speaker: Plastic, The primary function of laptop speakers is to provide audio output. They allow users to hear sounds from various applications, directly from the laptop without needing external speakers or headphones.

For Manufacturing, Cutting, shaping, and preparing the diaphragm, voice coil, magnet, and surround for assembly. Wire is wound around the bobbin to form the voice coil, which interacts with the magnet to produce sound. The diaphragm, voice coil, and magnets are assembled into the driver unit.

Battery: Sodium-ion battery materials, to provide power when the laptop is not connected to an external power source.

Motherboard: A hard sheet of nonconductive material, usually plastic,It connects and integrates all major components, including the CPU, RAM, storage, GPU, and peripheral ports, enabling communication between them.

During the manufacturing process, a sheet of fibreglass fabric is coated with epoxy resin and heated until the resin is partially cured. This sheet is called prepreg. Multiple sheets of prepreg are stacked to the required thickness to create a laminated sheet. Sheets of copper foil are applied to both sides, before being placed in a heated press to complete the curing of the resin and allow the different layers to bond together. The end result is a sheet of copper-clad laminate.

Keyboard: Plastic, It allows users to input text, commands, and data into the computer through keystrokes, making it a primary tool for typing and data entry.

Control panel: Aluminum,To control the movement of the mouse, allowing users to access any program on the computer.

Keyboard base: Plastic, To support the keyboard keys.

USB Port: Steel with paint, A USB flash drive or external hard drive can be used to store and transfer digital art files, including paintings and graphics.

Display Form: Liquid crystal, To provide visual output for the user. It shows the operating system’s interface, applications, media, and other content. LCD Screen form.

Interesting Design Choice:

1. When I disassembled the computer, I removed a lot of black tape from the computer. The purpose of these tapes is to prevent dust and static electricity from affecting the computer components.

2.When I disassemble a computer, all the screws in the computer can be removed with the same Phillips screwdriver. This saves me the time of looking for a screwdriver.

Astak IP-700 Surveillance Camera – Teardown

Hello! The MOLE is the all-in-one network camera for security and all your social network communities. A simple 3-step setup gets this Wi-Fi camera up and running so that you can automatically send video clips to YouTube, even if you’re not there. Sophisticated built-in motion detection controls what you record, and will notify you via Twitter or email if the Mole catches something.
You can remotely control the pan & tilt angles, and monitor or record video from anywhere in the world.

I was thrilled to break its parts down to see what this camera could see. For starters, an SD card came with !!

(unfortunately no footage on it)

This is the outer shelling of the camera as well as the body

Materials Used

  • Plastic: Many surveillance camera housings are made of durable plastic materials that are weather-resistant and lightweight.
  • Cables: Cables used in the camera may contain copper conductors for data and power transmission, surrounded by insulation materials.
  • Electronic Components: The internal components of the camera, such as the printed circuit board (PCB), image sensor, and other electronic parts, are typically made of various electronic materials, including semiconductors and conductive materials.
  • Rubber Seals : To make them weather-proof and moisture proof
  • Mounting Hardware: Mounting brackets and screws may be made of metal or sturdy plastic, (injection moulding)
  • Glass or Acrylic: The camera lens cover was made of glass or acrylic to protect the lens
  • Plastic or Rubber Grommets: These are used to seal cable entry points and prevent water ingress.

Manufacturing Techniques Used

  • Injection Molding
  • Metal Fabrication
  • Soldering and PCB Assembly
  • Lens Installation
  • Infrared (IR) LED Integration
  • Software/Firmware Installation

Tools used

  • Micro Screwdrivers
  • Regular Screwdrivers
  • Hammer
  • Chisel

Interesting Design elements

  • I was surprised to see not too many screws on the inside and multiple locking mechanisms to ensure there was no way water or dust could enter the camera. The build was super sturdy and pulling the two (Base & Camera) apart was definitely an issue.
  • The second thing that blew me away was the amount of tech and chips and dips in a product so small.
  • And the third is definitely have to be the Motorized Mechanisms (Pan, Tilt, Zoom) within the camera. Would love to learn a lot more!

Here’s a teardown video

Fitbit Teardown

I tore apart the Fitbit Surge with the help of some fit men. Together, we used pliers, an eyeglasses screwdriver, an exacto knife, and our muscles/hands.

note: no fit men were harmed in the tearing down of this fitbit.

Parts and Materials List

  1. Battery cover (metal and foam)
  2. Alkaline button battery
  3. Main Printed Circuit Board including:
    • metal shield,
    • touchscreen controller (Cypress CY8CTMA463),
    • microcontroller (Silicon Labs EFM32 Giant Gecko (ARM Cortex-M3) EFM32GG395F1024),
    • flash memory (Micron Serial NOR Flash N25Q064A11ESEA0F),
    • battery charger (Texas Instruments Battery Charger BQ24232H),
    • GPS receiver (MediaTek GPS Receiver MT3339),
    • Bluetooth controller (Texas Instruments Bluetooth Controller CC2564)
  4. Lithium Polymer battery (LSSP491524AE)
  5. Metal clasps
  6. Rubber liner
  7. Silicone-rubber band
  8. Plastic casing with built-in:
    • charging port
    • pressure sensor (MS5805-02BA01)
  9. Small screws:
    • four 2mm torx screws
    • four 2mm Phillips head screws
    • four 1mm Phillips head screws
  10. Wiring
  11. Glue
  12. Plastic buttons with rubber bumpers
  13. Metal casing
  14. Metal casing with attached wire
  15. Connective wiring and chips
  16. Metal binding with wiring
  17. Foam
  18. Plastic papers
  19. Tape
  20. Sharp thin-film-transistor liquid-crystal display screen (TFT LCD) screen
  21. Silicone-rubber band belt
  22. Metal clasp (nickel and stainless steel)
  23. Silicone-rubber band
  24. Glass display window with wiring
  25. Bluetooth antenna (2 parts)
  26. GPS antenna
  27. Plastic casing with metal screw bearings
  28. Metal casing

Manufacturing the Fitbit

  • Material extraction
  • Injection molding
  • PCB manufacturing (coating, printing, chemical etching, inspecting, soldering, cleaning, plating, laminating etc.)
  • Battery manufacturing (electrode manufacturing, cell assembly, and cell finishing)
  • Assembly

Design elements of interest:

  • The buttons: It was interesting to see how the buttons had little rubber “bumpers” that help the buttons stay in place and are protective buffers against the receptors that they hit when pressure is applied.
  • The band: The band is glued to the Fitbit electronic where the antennas are. It thereby becomes very hard to remove the bands without damaging the antennas. After seeing all the protective measures for the other electronic parts, it becomes very odd to see these pieces unprotected and easily damaged. It has me wondering if the device is built for obsolescence by a company wanting their users to break their products and then buy new ones.

Dromo Copter Teardown

Watch the moment I realized the Dromo Copter still (kind of) worked! I replaced the batteries in the remote control and charged the drone in hopes it might still work before I took it apart. Glad I did!

Teardown Instructions

  • Tools Needed: mini precision screwdriver, nimble fingers
  • Part 1: Remote Control
    1. Unscrew the lid covering the batteries and remove
    2. Unscrew the remaining two screws embedded on the left and right sides
    3. Pull apart the top and bottom of the external case to reveal the control circuit
    4. Pop out the 2 toggles and 3 button caps
    5. Layout the pieces
  • Part 2: Drone
    1. Pull off the kickstand featuring the product QR code
    2. Pop off the 4 plastic propellers
    3. Remove 4 screws and pull apart top and bottom of plastic casing
    4. Extract the
    5. Layout the pieces

Materials / Components / Product Information

  • Plastic
  • Metal
  • Fiberglass
  • Dimensions 7.5cm x 7.5cm x 3cm
  • Flight time: 6/7min
  • Battery : lithium polymer 3.7V 120mAh
  • Technology: quadcopter
  • Working frequency: 2.4Ghz with anti-interference circuit
  • Gyroscope: 6 axis
  • Control: 2.4Ghz radio control 2 x AAA

Interesting Design Elements

  1. The circuit board in the drone matches the shape of the drone with holes on each of the 4 ends to hold the tiny motors in place. It catches your eye when you’re used to seeing a rectangular PCB.
  2. This is more a grievance than interest – the screws were so tiny it was almost impossible to reach them and open the drone! I’m sure the rationale behind that decision is 1) so that the screws don’t distract from the overall design and 2) user’s are not encouraged to take apart the product.


Electric Toothbrush Teardown

Behold as the electric toothbrush self-assembles!

Welcome to the Taodown! Otherwise known as the Tao Tao Teardown—brought to you by Becky Stern & PoD.

Today, we took apart a Philips Sonicare kids’ electric toothbrush. The short story? It’s made of metal and plastic. The long story—well, keep reading (and watching) below. Also, click here if you need your own—no commissions, sadly.

Tools & Techniques
To deconstruct the toothbrush, I used (1) my hands (2) a tiny screwdriver (3) a less tiny screwdriver (4) a wire cutter and (5) brute strength. The larger screwdriver was required as a lever to remove the plastic outer base of the brush, as well as dislodge both the control board and Li-Ion battery from the plastic skeleton. The tiny screwdriver was used to separate the oscillating brush head, cam, and gears from the shaft (which also held the motor).

Toothbrush teardown timelapse

Notable Design Elements
(1) It’s probably no surprise that Philips has made the Li-Ion battery next-to-impossible to remove. While electric toothbrushes are rechargeable, the battery will eventually run out, and if it does, you’ll need to buy a whole new unit. There’s no feasible way to replace that battery yourself. That being said, lithium batteries can be dangerous to handle, which means that until they are safe to handle, they should be kept as far out of reach (and replacement) as possible. In which case, a job very well done.

(2) I found myself contemplating the size of the removable toothbrush head. This, of course, is the “consumable” element of the product; the Philips website states that it is “recommended to replace your Philips Sonicare Brush Head every three months of normal use.” Looking at the inner underpinnings of the brush head, I wondered if the replaceable component could be reduced to just the very tip of the brush (just the brush, and no upper shaft), thereby reducing the amount of plastic. However, even if technically possible, Philips would almost certainly ignore this efficiency, because it would imply charging less for their brush replacement packs (a set of three currently retails at $31.96$42.96).

Electric Toothbrush: Parts

Electric Toothbrush Components & Materials:
1 – Toothbrush head (plastic + nylon for bristles—most likely Nylon 6-12)
2 – Outer case (plastic)
3 – Charging coil (copper)
4 – Induction charger coil (copper)
5 – Oscillating brush head + cam/gears (steel + plastic)
6 – Screws (steel)
7 – Motor (aluminum + copper)
8 – Torsion bar (steel)
9 -Magnet (iron, nickel, cobalt, +/or steel)
10 – Shaft, cam + gears (steel + plastic)
11 – Circuit board (copper, fiberglass, resin)
12 – Power button cover (plastic)
13 – Button cover / thumb grip (plastic)
14 – Lithium (Li-Ion) battery (lithium, nickel, cobalt, possibly manganese)

Electric Toothbrush: Circuit Board

Circuit Board Components:
1 – Power button
2 – Programming pads
3 – Coil connections
4 – Chip (#CY8C4247LQI-BL483)
5 – Diode bridge

Chip details
– Type: ARM Microcontrollers – MCU PSoC 4 BLE Integrated Chip; see data sheet
– Manufacturer: Infineon Technologies
– Price: $7.75 (for 1 unit)

Manufacturing techniques & equipment

  • Outer casing: These plastic elements are made from plastic granules, shaped while hot in molds along an mechanical assembly line. A computer scans the casing to ensure there are no flaws, and rays of UV light are blasted to make sure the plastic is completely sterile.
  • Head and bristles: Bristle color determines thickness (influencing the location on the center or perimeter of brush head). A machine inserts the bristles into holes in the plastic head by folding them around tiny pieces of wire. A blade cuts the tips of the bristles to ensure they’re all the same length, then blunts any sharpe edges. The necks are then attached the the brush heads.
  • A machine clamps the gearbox (cam + gears) and motor together. A worker then manually melds them together with the lithium battery, then plugs them into a charging unit to ensure the circuit is connected.
  • The inner components are then fitted into the casings via machine assembly.
  • A machine then seals the plastic bottom of the casing with a twist.
  • A quality controller gives them a final human review, while a subset of the batch are sent off for quality testing (performed by a machine). If that goes smoothly, they’re off to consumers!

TIL:
Maybe we should all just be brushing our teeth with our fingers?

iPhone 4 Teardown

The teardown experience was amazing! To tell the truth, I have always dreaming of disassembling Apple’s products, thinking that its technical content and technological level are unparalleled, which is also the reason why I choose this product.

1- This is the initial state of the product.
2- First remove the battery, small screws and wirings.
3- Next remove the rear camera and speakers.
4- Lift the covered wirings and remove the lock button and handset structure.
5- Then remove the mainboard.
6- Finally take out the screen.

1-Battery: Li-polymer

2-Mainboard: Skyworks SKY77542 Tx–Rx iPAC™ FEM for Dual-Band GSM/GPRS: 880–915 MHz and 1710–1785 MHz bands, Skyworks SKY77541 GSM/GRPS Front End Module, STMicro STM33DH 3-axis accelerometer, Cirrus Logic 338S0589 audio codec……

3-Front glass panel: Corning Gorilla Glass

4-Frame: Stainless steel

5-Wirings: Ferrite polymer composites (FPC)

… …

· Adjustable screwdriver kit

· Tweezers

· Open tools

  1. One of the parts I’m most interested in is the vibrator. I was first attracted by its shape, which looks like a cylinder with another half cylinder strung on top of it, and can be rotated around it. It works by using a CAM (eccentric device) to rotate inside the phone, resulting in vibration.

I compared it with the vibrators of other products and found that its volume is actually much smaller than the usual products. I believe that in the future, with the improvement of the accuracy and requirements of mobile phone manufacturing, the production of vibrators will be more compact and precise.

Vibrator

2. The other part I’m interested in is the wiring. Because when I disassembled the parts, I actually sighed that all the lines were very precise and neat. It is hard to imagine how they are produced and assembled, and their role is so crucial in the production of mobile phones that I look forward to learning more about them and even learning to use them.

” If you do something and it turns out pretty good, then you should go do something else wonderful, not dwell on it for too long. Just figure out what’s next.”

Looking forward to the next!

📷💥Nicon D3 Teardown

📄 The introduction of Nicon D3 camera

the reason that why I chose the camera is because I really into taking photographs by using film camera as well as SLR camera. different from the silver salt reaction, SLR camera utilized the CCD(Charge-coupled device) and the CMOS to record light informations so that we can take pictures much more easily and spread the photos more easily. So i’d like to figure out how those electronic componds are arranged in the camera body to achieve those powerful founctions.

🔧 The processes of assembly:

1 Remove all the screws that I can find

2 Use the heating gun to melt the rubber on the camera body.

3 Remove the screws under the rubbers.

4 Divide the camera into several parts.

5 Tear down the motherboard.

Here is the assembly process video 🔽

⚙️ The main components of the camera:

✍️ my thoughts:

1 Nikon uses a lot of screws to connect different parts rather than using glue which makes the camera easy to take apart and easy to be repaired.

2 The body of the camera is made of magnesium which makes it as solid as a brick, all the parts are designed to use screws attach to it.

3 Robust surfaces, soft rubber on the grips, oversized buttons, locked controls, and environmental seals add up to a purposeful camera that has been designed with the requirements of the professional photographer in any situation.